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-   -   how long does it take your car to reach operating temp? (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/how-long-does-take-your-car-reach-operating-temp-988970/)

RexRyder 02-26-12 09:11 PM

Forgot to add: mine takes about 6-8 mins to get to 160 on 70 degree day. I have an h-mount Chevy double pass rad with dual 10" fans and a gutte thermos.

beachFC 02-26-12 09:51 PM


Originally Posted by RexRyder (Post 10995170)
Forgot to add: mine takes about 6-8 mins to get to 160 on 70 degree day. I have an h-mount Chevy double pass rad with dual 10" fans and a gutte thermos.

does it go above 160? i don't want to damage anything by driving it cold all the time.. and definitely would not like to drive around smoke-screening the city

RexRyder 02-26-12 11:43 PM

Well yea it does, I always let it warm up atleast 6 mins and that's the temp it's around.

My thermos is gutted because ambient temps get to 110+ sometimes.

clokker 02-27-12 12:13 AM


Originally Posted by Logicalbomb (Post 10994897)
I have a koyorad and my car takes almost 10 min to reach 160 and rarely goes above. I even removed the fan shroud on a belt operated fan and it does the same thing lol.


Originally Posted by Logicalbomb (Post 10994934)
Well, IDK about that to be honest. After I removed the thermostat I stopped having over pressure and over heating problems. At first when I bought my RX7 in 2004 I had overheating and coolant problems plague my vehicle. But after taking the thermostat out and reinforcing a few of the block offs on the upper plenum it stopped completely. Then I installed that Koyo radiator and it's been sensational sense. I haven't had cooling problems in over 5 years now.


Originally Posted by Logicalbomb (Post 10994946)
I went through 3 before I did it. To be honest the heating problems made me feel like my car was cursed. Maybe it's superstition but I have left it out ever since =D

I don't doubt your veracity and "cursed" would be as good an explanation as any (except for the one that actually solved the problem) but I think we can agree that your engine is an outlier and not to be emulated.

In theory, removing either the thermostat or the fan shroud is a bad idea...both together, insanity.

A few years ago I had thermostat troubles and went through two before the third worked properly. The first two appeared OK as they were tested in boiling water on the stovetop but were totally erratic in the vehicle.
I had no explanation but logic dictated that the thermostat was the culprit, so I persevered and third time was a charm.

Also not to be discounted are hard to find water leaks in secondary loops (BAC/thermowax and heater) that may be introducing air to the system and creating steam pockets.

Even if your thermostat has the jiggle pin, it doesn't hurt to add a hole of your own just to help the bleed process.

Justen 02-27-12 01:32 AM


Originally Posted by clokker (Post 10995377)
Also not to be discounted are hard to find water leaks in secondary loops (BAC/thermowax and heater) that may be introducing air to the system and creating steam pockets.

Even if your thermostat has the jiggle pin, it doesn't hurt to add a hole of your own just to help the bleed process.

^THIS. Absence of a jiggle pin would make it very difficult to get the air out of the system. I have an s5, but it seems like it would be fairly simple to drill and tap the aluminum s4 thermostat housing to install a bleeder valve.

Air in the system could have very well been the problem in the first place.
But taking a thermostat out completely could theoretically cook your engine without you even realizing it.

beachFC 02-27-12 01:51 AM

i wonder why my car never gets above 160 O.o hahaha pretty weird


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