high performance rotary...
I am wondering a couple things....
In a rotary, how do you lower compression, for High PSI turbos... And how do you raise redline? balance shaft and rotors? I dont know.... but I'm sure some of you must. |
get new rotors if you want lower compression, no other way that I know of.. balancing I have no idea
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how much do new rotors cost? where can I get them? I checked a cuople regular sites and they had nuthin for the RX-7.
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you need 87-88 t3 rotor they are the lowest compression available, expect to pay around $400+ each new.
mike |
where would I get those? and whats the compression ratio?
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The 86-88 turbo rotors are 8.5:1 CR and are the lowest you can get. What do you have now?
IMO, you're best to stick with what you've got. CR x boost pressure ratio = effective CR (ECR) So a higher CR and lower boost will give you the same ECR (and hence roughly the same power), but you'll have that higher CR throughout the rev range as opposed to higher boost but only at higher revs. |
lightened rotors gives a higher redline, there may be other ways, the E-shaft can't take much over 10,000rpm
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rotories already have a lower compression than most piston engines
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86-89 engines have lower compression which is about 8.5. There is a 7.5 on the 13B turbo of 1984 but it is a J-spec engine so most likely you will not find it. But to give you a hint compression is not such a big issue... You can go up to 20 lbs of boost on non-turbo rotors.
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There is no 1984 13B Turbo, these weren't made until 1986.
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e-shaft? is that a special brand, or do you just mean the eccentric shaft?
basically, for my the 7, here are the minimums of what I am looking for: 8500rpm redline, power peaking 7500-8000 rpm min. 1 bar of boost. 2 bar max. 2000 lbs or less 400 hp |
o, and legality isnt an issue. Its not gonne be driven besides to the race, and maby once or twice during the week to keep everything crispy.
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Originally posted by sinfestboy e-shaft? is that a special brand, or do you just mean the eccentric shaft? basically, for my the 7, here are the minimums of what I am looking for: 8500rpm redline, power peaking 7500-8000 rpm min. 1 bar of boost. 2 bar max. 2000 lbs or less 400 hp |
Originally posted by Angel Guard Racing Team 86-89 engines have lower compression which is about 8.5. There is a 7.5 on the 13B turbo of 1984 but it is a J-spec engine so most likely you will not find it. But to give you a hint compression is not such a big issue... You can go up to 20 lbs of boost on non-turbo rotors. |
Originally posted by InfiniIIIREX 2000 lbs or less? you better start saving for a fiberglass body I need to put whats gonna be my rx-7 in my sig, so ppl know what I'm talking about... |
If it's only going to be on the race track, build yourself a tube frame :) That'll get the weight down.
Oh and one more thing, if you ARE sticking with a regular body, you can ditch twenty or thirty pounds (or more?) by killing the sound deadening material.. Go to a party store and buy some dry ice (or look up "dry ice" at www.yellowpages.com). Yank the carpet out and take that stuff, drop it on the floor panel where the sound deadening is at (helps if it's cold out already) and let it sit there for a little bit, then move it, and take a hammer and *WHACK*.. if you got it cold enough it should come right out in rather large chunks. |
Barwick: Not enough money. the reason I chose FC is because I have heard that for 10k plus the price of the TII you can get 12's in the 1/4 and 1g on the skid. Im looking for 11's and .95g :)
how much does that much dry ice cost? sounds like a damn good idea... that 30 lbs, and the weight of the carpet... thats a good 45 lbs.... damn! |
if u got some mates in university science department it wont cost u anything ;)
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their was a 12A turbo in japan
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Re: high performance rotary...
Originally posted by sinfestboy I am wondering a couple things.... In a rotary, how do you lower compression, for High PSI turbos... And how do you raise redline? balance shaft and rotors? I dont know.... but I'm sure some of you must. -Ted |
Originally posted by InfiniIIIREX rotories already have a lower compression than most piston engines -Ted |
Originally posted by sinfestboy Barwick: Not enough money. the reason I chose FC is because I have heard that for 10k plus the price of the TII you can get 12's in the 1/4 and 1g on the skid. Im looking for 11's and .95g :) $1,000 3" full turbo back exhaust $150 fuel pump $100 intake $400 boost controller $500 sticky tires That's a high 12-second 1/4-mile car that does 1.0g+ on the skidpad. What the hell is up with you?  you talk a lot of smack (see other thread on 13B-REW and being able to afford professional fabrication), but you have no CLUE on what these things are capable of?  You post a lot of question looking like you're trying to build a MONSTER vehicle, but all I hear is questions upon questions upon question... Care to give us a background on who you are?  Are you a serious racer who has the money back it up or some 14-year old kid with nothing better else to do? -Ted |
My money's on the latter...
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Thats cruel Ted, but funny. I'm curious also.
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Maybe it's just me...  You should see all this person's questions in some of the other forum sections.  I just went through an involved answer on turbo models in the Single Turbo section.
I was kinda irked that he made a 13B-REW conversion sound so trivial. I've got a headache...maybe that's why. For $10k, my FC would've gone 9's!  Hey, maybe he mistakenly typed "12" instead of "9"?  Yeah, that's it...that's the ticket!:eek: -Ted |
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