So i'm putting my 86.9 TII back together, here are a few things i've been running into.

1. it seems as though i'm not getting power to the fuel pump, however when i jumper the yellow connector in the engine bay i can hear the pump run... it's a walbro, so its loud... there was a fuel cut switch, i have however removed it as the car is running an rtek... it's an rtek 1.7 n333 if that makes a difference, as i'm running low impedance injectors... the car

2. when the car did start it would idle poorly, but idle nonetheless, however when the throttle was depressed at all the car would stall, however for some reason the car ran much much better, albeit briefly when the fuel cut switch was turned off...

3. other than that things i can think of, the car does have the bac hooked up, everything else is blocked off... when the car ran before, it suffered from some breakup under throttle and only ran well intermittently. i fixed several issues, yet can't get the car to run now...

 

Issue #1. If the pump works w/key to on and engine off w/the jumper in place then the pump is not to work w/key to on and jumper not in place because its not designed to run unless the engine is running. If the pump does not work w/the engine running/trying to start then that is a different issue. Which is yours?

 

The fuel pump will kick on when the AFM flapper opens a little (i.e., car running). There's an internal switch. If the flapper is getting stuck or something, it could cause :
#1) Fuel pump not coming on
#2) Sucky idle
#3) Hard start
#4) Poor driving performance

 

The pump is not working when trying to start the car, I cannot hear it when the car is cranking... When the connector is jumped however I can hear the pump run when the key is in the on position...

 

There is a relay to the right of the steering column just under the dash which is yellow and black. When "starting" the car the B/W wire in the upper left of the relay plug should have voltage on it. Check to see if this happens as it's essential to starting the car.