money is not an issue when it come to tuning ,i just need good reliability
i never new i had that many options for a tuner in my area of ct...an added benifit they make the harness..mine is a little scary

if spending more money is not a issue- go for a new ECU and harness, best money you will spend.

People sell shit on here claiming its mint or new and it turns out to be dog shit, god only knows what it went through. if it aint in the box in its wrapper it aint new no more.
"only started the car for 20 minutes", meanwhile its hacked up, sat in water, got kicked around.

Buy new and enjoy the support of the distributor/tuner who sold it to you.

I had not thought you might buy used, but if you do, here is whatI suggest for those buying used AEM's-

If its a local sale, go see it run a car and connect to a laptop. If its not ina car because the seller no longer has that type of car, go find someone with one that would be willing to let you plug in for 10 minutes or so. Usually this is not particualrly difficult.

If its not a local sale, and it is not a brand new item from a vendor, then here what I do.
Have the seller send the EMS to AEM. If it passes with a clean bill of health, pay the man and have the EMS sent on to you. If there is an issue, then follow AEM's recommendations as to what to do. If there is a repair cost involved, work that out with the seller. Be aware that AEM doesnt do this for free, so it might cost a few bucks in shipping and inspection, but it will be worth it long-run, because when you get the ECU you will have some confidence it
will work as it should.
It is also some hassle for the seller, but ntohign that should be that big a deal. Even if you back out for whatever reason the seller is now able to say 100% checked out by AEM, which should help him sell.

Don.

sounds good

i know from reading most post is to start with a fresh harness...with the ecu upgrade..you guys are right
i already have 2 1000cc brand knew injectors and 720s...im almost there

haltech
 

im going with a haltech..theres more support for it if i run into a problem...i dont no if i should do the install or let a shop ...i have good mechanical abillity but wiring maybe a issue

Yep that was the main reason i went with the haltech... I wired up mine myself it took a week, it was slow as i wanted to do it right, i did tons of reseach before to see what others did and problems they ran into and it went smooth.

Fired up the first time and runing good ever since. I crimped my wires(make sure u have a good wore striper and crimper iof you go the DIY route) and if u unsure about something just ask and reasearch till you get a concrete answer and u will be fine.

Hybird

wise decisions mi amigo.

wire it yourself. when you think about it, there aint much shit to wire in yourself. 4 injectors, 2 sensors, fuel pump, cas, and ignition.

the ignition and coils maybe a concern ...what did guys run into whenwiring it to the stock coils and what model do you have...

ps thank you guys helping me through this

the coils are controlled via 3 wires. yes... three wires.


the cas wiring, now that is a bit different. check it 100+ times if need be, and dont forget flash the haltech to the most up to date firmware.

yes as mention ealier the coils are controlled by 3 wires so it should be simple. I used my stock T2 coils to make thing simple.

now for the cas, through my research many have had problemswith interference qnd cross talk btw alt and cas so this is what i did to solve all potential problems.
I ran the cas wires away from the alt wires
I sheilded it with copper sleave to elminated any cross talk

this has work excellent for me i also protected all wires with BRAIDED-EXPANDABLE-WIRE

to protect from heat and abbrasion.

hybrid

Good luck! :)

hybrid g do you have pics of what you did...also thanks for the heads up in shielding

You should be able to wire it if you are good mechanically. Just don't give yourself a deadline to have it finished. You will want to take your time measuring wire lengths, checking diagrams, wrapping things neatly et cetera.

the trick to running wires is to use rope first to map out the harness. then, cut it to length leaving 6 inches of wire for slack and such.

Well to help you out here are a few tips-

Buy NEW connectors and/or pigtails wherever possible, or just leave your existing harness. Unlike FD harnesses which are constantly cooked, FC harnesses, even Turbo ones, tend to last much longer. If you have a lower milage or well cared for car, DO NOT REPLACE THE HARNESS!!!
I prefer Deutsch DTM connectors where I replace factory ones, but without the proper crimper (as much as 250 bucks!) GM/Packard Metripack or Weatherpack connectors will do fine.If you want a true "factory look" Tyco/AMP and Hitachi/Sumitomo connectors are available.

If you choose to build a harness and are using the "flying lead kit" you will need at least the following bits:

4 injectors clips, I use part number AEM Part# 30-2020 which is 4 connectors and pins for around 10 bucks
1 Coolant temp sensor connector,
1 IAT connector
1 TPS sensor connector- I usually cut the EOM connector off the sensor wires and use a DTM connector set
1 CAS connector, 4-pin, again I use a DTM connector
Coil/Ignitor connectors- depends on what you are using, if using the OEM coils new connectors might be available
relay bases for fuel pump,injector/coil 12v, etc

You might also need connectors for things you may want to add or use:
Injector resistor pack
wideband 02
fuel pressure
Fan output (electrical)

Again, new connectors are available from a variety of sources, but if you have issues feel free to shoot me a PM and I will see if I can help.

d walker your the best ...my harness does need a rebuild ...ill start ordering the parts then post pics of my process...i just want to do best job i can ...so i can jump in my car turn the key and go...i rebuilt the motor it has 400 miles with no boost ...now i have to pick witch haltech unit to get ...now i have the green light from the wife lol

sorry no pic but the car is sotred up for the winter if u need pic of anything i can snap it for you

An fc harness should NEVER be reused. i know this, and most people who have ever tried to deal with them know this. the clips are brittle as hell. they break, and are useless. PERIOD
regardless if its new, or like new, its going out of there.

the haltech does not need a resistor pack for injectors. Fuel pressure is just a gauge. sitting in your engine bay. done and done. Efan? there wasnt a mention of it.
buying IAT and the CT sensor come with their appropriate connectors, and so does the tps. the injectors unless otherwise are standard injector connectors. unless you want to be el cheapo and use the NON GM sensors. i dont know why you would want to keep the iat, cts, and tps when you get a new ecu and can use them. plus, the sensors are mass produced and will cost a handfull of dollars if they break.

dwalker sounds more like an AEM salesman to me.


dennis, the kind of haltech you will get depends on your level of modifications. for a starter, id get the sprint RE. its cheap as hell, and is easy to wire up without a bajillion outputs that you dont need to worry about.

or, if you plan to jump head string into this, get a sprint 1000. lots more inputs and outputs for options down the road.

Well huh, I guess the FC harnesses I have here are exceptions, because they are in decent shape. Its just WRONG to insist that you should rip out a harness because you cannot figure out how to repair it. I have heard the same about FD harnesses, and in fact have seen perfectly good harnesses ripped out because of some fear they would fall apart. TRUTH- broken connectors and bent pins can be replaced, the only legitimate reason to replace a harness is because of insulation breakdown, corrosion, or severe damage.


Reading is fundamental- I know it is bad for to quote ones self but-

EDIT::: Also I know it might sound odd, but actually using those extra inputs for things like Fuel pressure, Oil pressure, Oil temperature etc. allows them to be logged using the ECU's logs, which can be handy.

GM sensor are literally the cheapest onthe market, not sure what your point is. MOST aftermarket sensors do in fact come with thier pigtails, but not all. ASSuming so is deadly when dealing with a newb, as this fellow seems to be. I dont know about you, but I reuse the Mazda TPS and simply change the connector to one that is more readily available, in my case Deutsch DTM, which are somewhat expensive, and so recommended GM Metripack or Weatherpack, which are relatively cheap, easily available, and easy to use.

Good call, I AM an AEM salesman, but I have also built a lot of wiring harnesses and have spent a lot of time figuring out what to use, not to use, and where to get it. Sorry if that offends.

Cheers,
Don

Am i missing something here?..............because the haltech comes with a new harness so you do not need thestock one ... you will need you stock ignition harness though but not the engine one.

new sensors are always good but not necasssary TPS use the haltech one or you can use the S5 TPS

Seems maybe there is some confusion-

AFAIK (please correct me if I am wrong) but the Haltechs still come with a "FLYING LEAD" harness, which is nothing but a bunch of wires plugged into the ECU connector. The end user must then provide all the connectors needed.

I personally use, and advise everyone else to use, NEW connectors wherever possible when building a new harness. I know many DIY guys just cut thier old connectors from the OEM harness or junkyard cars, but in my experience this can lead to mystery issues down the road that are hard to figure out.

There are many places to buy new connectors, terminals, pins, etc. these days, but if anyone ever has need of connectors they cannot find I will be glad to help.

Cheers!
Don

doesn't offend, im just saying. there is more than one way to skin a cat.

hybrid g are you running a bnr turbo

i am. bnr 1. im upgrading to a stage 4

in a ways yes, i got the specs of the bnr stage 4 and had a local cdn turbo shop build be a bnr stage 4 equivalent.