Going "Bare Block"
 

Okay, heres the deal. Im going to try and make my engine bay as clean as possible. Im going to block off everything that I can that I dont need to pass emissions. After I get the man off my back, everthing else needs to go.

This is the small list ive generated so far. I think im going to keep my air conditioning and see if I cant get it working for cheap. The power steering will probably go, If I can find a decent manual rack in a yard, and instructions to swap them.

ACV and EGR block off
OMP block off
Electric fan

By the way, its a TII.

The thing id really like to ditch is the air flow meter, is that possible?

ditch the solenoids too. im doing what your doing when i get the jspec

That sounds kind of difficult...

Oh yeah, I forgot to mention throttle body mod.

only way you can ditch the AFM is by going to a new engine management system

I have ditched it all, E6K is running the show now

Damnit, I figured that was the only way....

Up.

if you need ac parts pm me, im ripping mine out (and it worked!) it wont fit with the new motor.

mike

TonyTurboII
How about all emmisions+ OMP+AC+remove all AC lines+PS+TB mod+relocate battery+solenoids+ charcoal canister+ run e-fan& fmic (only if you want) Im planning on doing all this stuff on my TII with a e6k though:D .

a/c and power steering is a must, as far as your afm you need a standalone ecu to go to map sensor

someone got writeup with pictures for removing solenoids and rerouting vac lines ? for 87-88TII it would be great ;o)

Just find a good vacumm diagram. Trace all the lines, and when you pull something off pull all the vac lines and soliniods for it at the same time.

the only things i think you have to keep are the Fuel Pressure Reg solinoid, and the Twin Scroll solinoid, unless you've removed that stuff from the exhuast too.

thats what i`m hoping to find here on forum ;o))

some good diagram with step by step how-to and exact description to show what everything could be removed and what MUST stay in place....
i`m looking for simplest setup....

Actually, if you're willing to do a little work, you can get rid of the twin-scroll solenoid as well. To do it though, you have to remove the turbo and manifold. Then, you'll cut out the flapper door that is in the exhaust manifold. Tap the hole that is left over, and put a bolt, etc in there to eliminate that hole.

As for the fuel solenoid, you can remove it, and just run a vac line directly from the secondary fuel rail to a vaccuum source. I have had this setup on my TII for about a year with no ill effects (i.e. problems starting, fuel delivery, etc)

Hope this helps.

reese

for some terms and stuff isn`t my english good enought so anything with pictures would be really great :)

I have removed turbo and turbo manifold, engine is sitting in garage..TB mod is done already.......

What wires do i need from the engine wiring harness if i'm not concerned with emissions,ac, or any of that bullshit? i have a haltech e6k and full race intake manifolds and every thing else. So i really have no clue what i need or don't need! Please Help

i`m not haltech guy, but i guess u`ll be fine with just haltech and haltech's wiring...

I don't know how to post pics, but my TII is running only one solenoid (twin scroll solenoid). The entire solenoid rack is in the dumpster, fuel lines are custom made, no a/c, PS (in the pics but gone now) relocated some wiring, no cruise, charcoal canister, etc.

If anyone want to post the pics I'll send them to ya!

Jeff
87 TII ~2540lbs with interior, no HVAC though.

send them to me, i`ll post them and store them on my website as well....

higgi@rx7cz.net
http://rx7cz.net

I would also be very interested in getting a write up or how to thanks

Wow guys, thanks for all that great info. Id like to ditch those solinoids now that I think about it. Im a little confused on how to lose them though, especially the fuel one. Where does the vac source tap into the fuel line? Wouldnt it suck fuel in? Im basically going to stock up on all the stuff I need to do the engine right, so that it all falls into place. Does anyone have a description of what electric fan they used? Also what about how to wire a tempature sender for it.

Anyone with PICS of an almost bare motor??...preffer with HALTECH E6K

turbojeffs pics
 

here is what turbojeff send to me, i was expecting something more detailed...

There are 3 pics, the first is what it looked like when I got it, the second
is missing a/c, cruise, emissions, etc but still has stock airbox. The last
pic shows cone filter and relocated wiring near airbox.


http://rx7cz.net/photos/jeff/TII_eng_bay_before.JPG

http://rx7cz.net/photos/jeff/TII_eng_bay_after.JPG

http://rx7cz.net/photos/jeff/TII_engine_12_6.JPG

what i`m looking for is details of solenoids and vac lines in simplest setup with stock ECU....

Sorry I didn't have more detail. The car is now located at my teammate's house about 135 miles south so I probably won't have any more pics. This is our Grassroots Motorsports $2002 Challenge car, you saw it here first!

I ditched the ENTIRE solenoid rack, the entire metal assembly with all solenoids except one. I kept the twin scroll solenoid and just plumbed it in like the metal lines had it plumbed in. I ran the line from the FPR to the nipple on the inside of the lower intake. IIRC there are only a couple lines coming off the throttle body, one is for the vacuum spider (for oil metering nozzles), one for the twin scroll. I think that is it. All of the emmissions are blocked off with homemade block off plates, no BAC either.

The downside to ditching the entire solenoid rack is that it also holds the crankcase breather, currently mine is just vented to atmosphere, not too much stuff comes out of it, but it would be nice to not have any.

I made fuel lines with metal fuel line and a pipe bender, no rocket science there, just feed the primaries first and then route the return line from the secondaries.

The PS is now removed, you really can't get much more of a simple set-up than we have now, sorry I don't have better pics.

Jeff

jeff, do u think that u could make some simple diagram of it ? i would really appreciate it :)
thanks

you guys are making it a lot harder than its really is. after you are done you have 3 vacuum lines (2 if you ditch the twin scroll)
stuff you need: acv, egr block off plates, about 2feet if 5/16 high pruessure fuel hose, some 3.5mm vacuum line

1. remove plenum
2. do tb mod
3. remove entire vacuum rail
4. remove egr and acv
5. the fuel press regulator now plugs into the unused vac nipple on the back of the intake
6. the twin scroll on one side of the solenoid needs to plug into the front of the intake, and then go into the twin scrol pipe in the back
or you can just ditch all of that and wire it open
7. put it back together

mike
this is how i had mine ecxept that the vacuum rail was still on the car

i believe its easy, but some pictures or diagrams would make perfect how-to which lot of guys would appreciate tough....

Make sure that if you ditch the fuel press ( orange solenoid), you connect it to a vaccuum source after the TB, i.e. bottom nipple on back of TB or upper intake.

Gregg

This is all a good read, but like most of the guys I need diagrams too. Anyone kind enough to draw some up? Also, does anyone know which solinoids correspond with which color?

Pressure regulatorsolenoid- orange
Switching solenoid- gray
Relief solenoid- blue
Twin scroll turbo solenoid- green
EGR solenoid- yellow

Just a question, What is the throttle body mod?

It's a mod that does away with the thermo- wax, fast idle cam, dash pot, coolant flow through the TB, and secondary throttle plates. Do a search and you will find a very nice how-to with pictures.

Gregg

Geez I thought mine was clean now it just looks like a rats nest :(

http://personal.mco.bellsouth.net/~rx7tii/p0004779.jpg

Anyone able to make some diagrams for us ? 87-88 TII motor at firs, then if its for NA guys 86-88 diagram :)
Detailed pictures appreciated as well....

thanks

anybody ?

Up.

Kind of hard to diagram, dude. When you start takin' off smog shit, a lot of the lines take care of themselves. I have an '87 TII, all the solenoids are gone.
Might be easier to tell you what lines are left.
spider to oil injectors
line between middle two oil injectors to nipple on back of TB, second from top
line from ACV block off plate to pressure sensor, can also tee into line just behind BAC, whitch is also intact.
Connect presure reg line to vaccum source after throttle body( bottom nipple on back of TB or intake.
Everything else is either capped or being used for boost guage, boost controle device, etc. All lines on vaccuum tree are unused except fuel lines and PCV.

Hope this helps, Gregg

Oh, forgot twin scroll ( green solenoid). A lot of guys here say it doesn't work very well. Supposed to help turbo spool up quickly then open for more boost. Prolly should fix actuator door in open position if you take this off. I'm sure lottsa guys here are more qualified to advise you about this.

Gregg

either way, diagram of shit which will stay or photos would really help

and what about difference in series 4 and series 5 cars and na/turbo ?

would like to have best to go setups in here and save it for later use ;)

Hey what does the vacuum line coming off the TID go to? I wasn't paying attention when I pulled the rack off. Do I even need that thing?

Nevermind.

New question. WTF is the switching actuator? Do I need that? My first TII stayed relatively stock, I havent fucked with many (near stock) TII's till now. :)

is the switching actuator one of the solenoids? then its for the air control valve. and no you dont need the thing that goes into the tid, mine wasjust haging out in the breeze for 9 months

mike

I see the switching solenoid, and then theres a switching actuator. I'm looking at the factory guide, and from what I can tell the switching actuator is on the front of the exhaust manifold under the turbo. But I don't know for sure.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=341260

Oh yeah, my egr, bac, acv, split air pipe, and the cold start thing have all been blocked off. I'm in the middle of putting the intake back together after ripping the vacuum shit off and putting new vacuum line and fuel line in.

bdc promised to post some info here for us ;o)

Re: turbojeffs pics
 

You call that an empty engine bay??? :)

http://www.n-xsi.com/PROJECTS/FC3S/TEDS/engine1.jpg



-Ted

Holy shit, Ted has returned. My guess is Jesus is next.

I have an '89 TII so I didn't need to worry about the twin scroll. I have removed the following:-

1. air pump (this is put back once a year to pass emissions with (2))

2. ACV ( I cut the ACV apart ~1/2 thick inch to make block-off plate - with connector for port air to pass emissions - normally blocked off)

3. all the solenoids (wired replacement resistors in to fool ECU)

4. the hard piping ( I used a dremel cutoff disk to separate the fuel lines so they could be reused - I didn't like the idea of long flexible fuel lines across top of the engine.)

5. Throttle body mod

6. All cold start kit (thermowax etc)

The front 'vacuum connections on the upper intake have all been blocked off. The lowest rear one connects directly to the FPR. The upper rear connections go to their original positions.
The BOV and pressure sensor connect to the vacuum fitting just behind where the ACV used to go

The only detrimental effects I have found is that I must 'heel and toe' for the first few minutes on cold mornings to avoid possible stalling, and the exhaust stinks at tickover without the air pump blowing thru the 'port air'
The advantages - apart from a much neater engine bay - are better pick-up from partial throttle, and a smoother top end.

I am still looking for a way of tricking the ECU into running in 'closed loop' at tickover - if anyone has come across a way of doing this - or knows anyone else who is trying, i would like to hear from them

I'm working on doing all of the above, I'll take pictures of what I have so far if you want.

Well, you take it apart this far:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=440652

Remove the rack, make new fuel lines. Block off everything (ACV, EGR, BAC, etc.), remove the switching actuator and wire the door open. (You can leave the solenoid if you don't want to mess with the flapper. I just took my turbo and manifold off since I was porting the wastegate, and took the flapper out and TIG'd over the resulting hole).

Put it back together. The vacuum lines left should be:

Boost sensor, BOV (tee'd together), FPR (stick anywhere downstream of the TB), and the 4 oil injector vacuum lines. They go to the spider looking thing, and hook to the backside of the upper intake. Buy some screw protectors from the hardware store and block off any unused vacuum nipples.

Put it all back together and enjoy.
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...&postid=381569

Geeze, you guys are too hardcore for me. I like my heat/airconditioning. :o: