Originally Posted by jjwalker
(Post 9144504)
dell some of the parts from the old TII's and buy a new housing and seals. Do you have any idea what a used OMP runs??? Sell it.
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iv decided to close out my life insurance and rebuild:icon_tup:
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Originally Posted by MazdalicousRx7
(Post 9144778)
iv decided to close out my life insurance and rebuild:icon_tup:
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Zip tie all your vacuum lines! A wideband wouldn't hurt either.
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Originally Posted by MazdalicousRx7
(Post 9141618)
i notice my fuel pressure regulator vaccum hose came off but i dont think that would cause it to blow?
Originally Posted by Havoc
(Post 9141668)
With no =boost signal to the FPR is would mean that the fuel pressure would stay at a static pressure. (assuming your FPR was a rising rate reg that it should be for a turbo'ed car)
you could easily lean out your tune by that happening. (eg your reg would keep fuel at 45psi when it should be 60psi at 15psi worth of boost) therefore not flow enough fuel. |
Originally Posted by J.MurdaFCs3
(Post 9145349)
bullshit. fpr run at 65psi+ at static. when open to the atmosphere its around 45psi and at idle 28psi. it would not lean ur motor out. either way tho good luck w the rebuild i just gt mine back. just waiting on lim o rings:D
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zip ties and badass clamps ftw.
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a wideband to know your afr should almost be a must!
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Chances are, since it was a JDM motor, it was already high mileage and lord only knows how long it was sitting prior to your buddies purchase, then your installation. Personally I would never chance installing a JDM anything without a full rebuild. Some people get lucky, others (such as yourself) get the short end of the stick. Live and learn I guess. But now you have a good reason to do a real rebuild and triple check hosing.
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Originally Posted by J.MurdaFCs3
(Post 9145349)
bullshit. fpr run at 65psi+ at static. when open to the atmosphere its around 45psi and at idle 28psi. it would not lean ur motor out. either way tho good luck w the rebuild i just gt mine back. just waiting on lim o rings:D
Fuel pressure at 1 atm will be ~43.5 psi (lower in reality), and the pressure increase with boost is 1:1. In other words, you'd need to be making about 16.5+ pounds of boost before the FPR would allow a rail pressure of 65 psi. You can find information like this in the FSM. I suggest you try reading it. |
I know aftermarket rising rate regulators are 1 pound of fuel pressure for every pound of boost, but does that apply to our factory regulators as well?
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i'm sorry to hear that dude.. that must really suck.
If it makes you feel better.. I did something even more stupid. I swapped in my 750/1000 injectors, put on my rtek1.7, and bnr stage 4. got way too impatient for a tune and took it down the track untuned. my a/f gauge has went out aswell but i still insisted on making 1 pass. little did i know that 1 pass turned my perfect compression motor to 1 GOOD rotor, and 1 BLOWN rotor.. My boost spiked up past 16 pounds and i knew my engine was done for when it started rumbling.. I ran the compression test the night before i went to the track and they were both at 110 psi.. came back the next night ran a compression test on the rear rotor and it sits at 60 psi on 2 faces, and peaks at 90 psi on 1 face. Hope my story makes you feel better lol.. cause i'm pretty pissed at myself why I couldn't just hold off until I got it tuned.. lol. and if you were wondering, i did t 16.8 pass detonating 1st, and up until 6k rpm of 2nd. So yep... 16.8 pass at 95 mph and a broken engine. definitely not worth it. lol |
Originally Posted by J.MurdaFCs3
(Post 9145349)
bullshit. fpr run at 65psi+ at static. when open to the atmosphere its around 45psi and at idle 28psi. it would not lean ur motor out. either way tho good luck w the rebuild i just gt mine back. just waiting on lim o rings:D
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here is why your shit blew.
Stock TII's with good clean injectors and a clean fuel pump already run just a little bit lean of what would be comfortable. Open up the exhaust and get a little boost creep.... leaner. Adding the FCD to eliminate the boost cut means you'll make even more boost (leaner) and the ECU won't even be able to cut fuel to stop the acceleration. Oh yah... when you tell the ECU that there is less boost than there is (the FCD does that), it won't pull timing for the additional boost that you've introduced....ping anyone? If you want your TII to live, add an FPR and turn up the fuel pressure, add a wideband O2, then back the timing off 2-3 degrees. Tune the Air fuel to no leaner than 12:1 (for those of you that don't get it, the higher the A/F the leaner your mix), you can now add your FCD and turn the boost up to 12-13psi. |
Bummer. Good luck with the rebuild. Maybe while your in there, do some porting. :)
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thanks you guys im gonna try to avoid this problem next time, and when im in there im just gonna polish the ports, for smoother flow. i dont need a huge port.
but i will make it run a bit richer, so do i need to get an aftermarket FPR? |
i feel your pain i bought my gxl and drove it about half a mile and lost the apex seals on the back rotor, thats been a year ago and i am jsut getting a chance to fix it
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The delicacy of these engines should be considered when working on them and routing stuff since small mistakes can lead to big failures. Nature of the beast.
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Originally Posted by MazdalicousRx7
(Post 9141720)
At least i got to have fun for 24 hours? it was first T2, so iv never felt rotary boost, its like i got a bite of awesome pie, then it fell on the floor. sad day |
Originally Posted by KhanArtisT
(Post 9149525)
The delicacy of these engines should be considered when working on them and routing stuff since small mistakes can lead to big failures. Nature of the beast.
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