Gayeist thing that has ever happened!
 

i just swapped in a good t2 motor, and was on my way to salem to meet up with some fellow FC's then guess what i losted to apex seals. WOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWWWWWWWW:icon_no2:

iv only drivin the car for not even 24 hours.... i dont know what happened, i have a 3inch exhaust, FCD, boost controller, and a SAFC2. i dont know why it blew it makes no since, it was running perfectly fine.:dunno:

hella F)*&ing gay!!!

Damn I feel for ya bro..I bet you didnt know if you should punch something or cry...or both...LOL...I guess you took your chance on the engine you swaped in..or was it rebuilt before install?

it was just a JDM engine i got from a friend that picked up another FC cause he was too lazy to swap it in his t2 shell, so i picked it up from him. but the odd thing is that it ran like perfect right when i got it in. then i was driving it to salem, when i lost all power and had to pull over to the side of the road. i notice my fuel pressure regulator vaccum hose came off but i dont think that would cause it to blow?

It seems plausible.


EDIT: wait, I think I got the fuel pressure increase part wrong. It's still a possible cause though, something about a FPR without a vacuum signal seems destructive to me.

yeah well whatever happened, happened and i still need to get another motor... sad day im fuckin broke, well i drive an FC i should be used to it lol

With no =boost signal to the FPR is would mean that the fuel pressure would stay at a static pressure. (assuming your FPR was a rising rate reg that it should be for a turbo'ed car)

you could easily lean out your tune by that happening.
(eg your reg would keep fuel at 45psi when it should be 60psi at 15psi worth of boost) therefore not flow enough fuel.

makes since makes since.
gonna be sure not to repeat that mistake with the next engine, mo fuckin super glue the vacuum hose on

Yeah, the FPR losing its vac connection will kill it. A big pressure drop like that will lean it out severely, no matter what your injector duty cycles are.

well DAAAAMMMMN my engine goes just because of that little stupid god damn vacuum hose, thats made BS

This is what I was trying to say :)

Sorry about the car though. It definitely sucks that $0.99 worth of hose killed your engine.

The gay part is now i need to get another engine, which i'm gonna need to like win the lottery or something.

At least i got to have fun for 24 hours? it was first T2, so iv never felt rotary boost, its like i got a bite of awesome pie, then it fell on the floor. sad day

And i just filled the tank!!

:lol:

Sorry but that's just the icing on the cake.

I feel for you mate, I've had some bad fuel go through my engine before that sent me broke for about $3000. Had had the car for a week and was on my way back from a town 4 hours away when it died on me (thank god I made it back). So I know how it feels to have something so stupid completely kill your bank account.

why do you need a new engine? just rip apart the one youve got and see what condition the parts are in... you may get lucky.

already did the housings are scored. and the intermediate plate is scored. i shatter two seals. its worse then the other two T2 blocks i have. i got straight raped.

What does this have to do with being gay? Were you going to meet your friends at a Salem gay bar or something?

^^ lol

Well....reading this thread will make me want to strap that hose tighter now.......

I waited at that gay bar for at least four hours. Never called me. :icon_no2:

i had a similar issue last week with my car. running standalone and my vac line to the map sensor got cooked by the turbo. big badda boom.
http://theora.com/images/MillaJovovich.jpg
and... i never fill my tank all the way, every time i do, my car breaks down. supersticious i know but, we need all the help we can get.

Maybe you shouldn't Be "so GAY" and just Run an N/A!..Sounds like it costs you Too Much to be a Flamin Pansy!..
at Least the Motor went out in Style..it Got BLOWN!..get it?Blown?..hello this thing on???..

well how many blown engines u got..
i think its time to play legos with all of them

that sucks man.

i just toasted my engine the other day

i had a big hole in my intake tube after the AFM, I think it caused it to lean out and die, either that or one of my injectors took a poo, still have to check them.

okay let me rephrase the thread title... ahem "This sucks" there any better?

and no thanks i had my fill on NA's iv had four, and they were all fun, and the only reason it blew was because of that stupid vacuum hose. So im going to stay with the turbo, and not play it safe.

i have 3 t2 blocks but nothing is salvageable, all bad rotor housing, plates are scored, and every seal has a chip in them

dell some of the parts from the old TII's and buy a new housing and seals. Do you have any idea what a used OMP runs??? Sell it.

no idea actually

iv decided to close out my life insurance and rebuild:icon_tup:

lol.

Zip tie all your vacuum lines! A wideband wouldn't hurt either.

bullshit. fpr run at 65psi+ at static. when open to the atmosphere its around 45psi and at idle 28psi. it would not lean ur motor out. either way tho good luck w the rebuild i just gt mine back. just waiting on lim o rings:D

the fpr would be good at idle open to the atmosphere but under acceleration i think it would lean out cause it would stay at the same psi without the vaccum to it. Next time around be sure to use a wideband and or a fuel pressure gauge, i use a fuel pressure gauge on my na since i replaced the fuel damper with a banjo bolt

zip ties and badass clamps ftw.

a wideband to know your afr should almost be a must!

Chances are, since it was a JDM motor, it was already high mileage and lord only knows how long it was sitting prior to your buddies purchase, then your installation. Personally I would never chance installing a JDM anything without a full rebuild. Some people get lucky, others (such as yourself) get the short end of the stick. Live and learn I guess. But now you have a good reason to do a real rebuild and triple check hosing.

Go pull the vac hose off of your FPR while the engine is idling, or even attach a bike pump to it to jack it up to ~10 psi. When the black smoke starts pouring out the exhaust, come back and tell us it didn't make the mixture richer at all. There's a reason fuel pressure is supposed to increase with engine load.

Fuel pressure at 1 atm will be ~43.5 psi (lower in reality), and the pressure increase with boost is 1:1. In other words, you'd need to be making about 16.5+ pounds of boost before the FPR would allow a rail pressure of 65 psi. You can find information like this in the FSM. I suggest you try reading it.

I know aftermarket rising rate regulators are 1 pound of fuel pressure for every pound of boost, but does that apply to our factory regulators as well?

i'm sorry to hear that dude.. that must really suck.

If it makes you feel better.. I did something even more stupid. I swapped in my 750/1000 injectors, put on my rtek1.7, and bnr stage 4. got way too impatient for a tune and took it down the track untuned. my a/f gauge has went out aswell but i still insisted on making 1 pass. little did i know that 1 pass turned my perfect compression motor to 1 GOOD rotor, and 1 BLOWN rotor.. My boost spiked up past 16 pounds and i knew my engine was done for when it started rumbling.. I ran the compression test the night before i went to the track and they were both at 110 psi.. came back the next night ran a compression test on the rear rotor and it sits at 60 psi on 2 faces, and peaks at 90 psi on 1 face.

Hope my story makes you feel better lol.. cause i'm pretty pissed at myself why I couldn't just hold off until I got it tuned.. lol. and if you were wondering, i did t 16.8 pass detonating 1st, and up until 6k rpm of 2nd. So yep... 16.8 pass at 95 mph and a broken engine. definitely not worth it. lol

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA :lol:

here is why your shit blew.

Stock TII's with good clean injectors and a clean fuel pump already run just a little bit lean of what would be comfortable. Open up the exhaust and get a little boost creep.... leaner. Adding the FCD to eliminate the boost cut means you'll make even more boost (leaner) and the ECU won't even be able to cut fuel to stop the acceleration. Oh yah... when you tell the ECU that there is less boost than there is (the FCD does that), it won't pull timing for the additional boost that you've introduced....ping anyone?

If you want your TII to live, add an FPR and turn up the fuel pressure, add a wideband O2, then back the timing off 2-3 degrees. Tune the Air fuel to no leaner than 12:1 (for those of you that don't get it, the higher the A/F the leaner your mix), you can now add your FCD and turn the boost up to 12-13psi.

Bummer. Good luck with the rebuild. Maybe while your in there, do some porting. :)

thanks you guys im gonna try to avoid this problem next time, and when im in there im just gonna polish the ports, for smoother flow. i dont need a huge port.

but i will make it run a bit richer, so do i need to get an aftermarket FPR?

i feel your pain i bought my gxl and drove it about half a mile and lost the apex seals on the back rotor, thats been a year ago and i am jsut getting a chance to fix it

The delicacy of these engines should be considered when working on them and routing stuff since small mistakes can lead to big failures. Nature of the beast.

lmfao lmfao lmfao thank u that made my day

wll the thing is all of my vacuum lines were all right on, i followed the FSM and triple checked if everything was right, it was just a pain cause i took out the air pump and EGR, so i had to figure out which lines went where. the FPR hose just came off, it was routed right.