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Search results in an unending barrage of threads or articles on replacing the relays that tell you that you need to cut open the casing to make one or more relays accessible. Since this is the wrong way to do it in general, and does not provide adequate access to replace the now-ancient electrolytic capacitors that are going to be part of the problem, I wanted to slap a note in here about how to do it properly without cutting anything open.
First, if you use a relatively cheap solder removal tool like a ZD-985 you can easily remove the solder that holds the circuit board inside the switch onto the pins for the switchgear. I imagine that you can also use a manual solder sucker and iron, but given the price of this tool and the inevitable need to do the headlight switch, logicon, idiot light cluster, etc, you'll get your money's worth from the tool. If you haven't used a tool like this before - make a small circle motion while holding down the vacuum trigger on the gun to wiggle the pin. This will ensure that a tiny blob of liquid solder does not harden in the PCB hole and hold the pin in place to stress the PCB pad while you remove the board. Also hold the trigger down for an extra second when pulling the tip away from the board to avoid the same in the metal air tube inside the gun.
The PCB is then easily extracted from the case with minimal prying and you can work on it normally. I found that normal PCB flux remover spray did a great job of removing the leaked electrolytic capacitor gel.
The relays from Omron that are in all the normal articles are correct. I used 2x G6C-2114P-US and 1x G5LE-14-12DC. Be aware there are Chinese forgeries of these relays so buy from a reputable source.
Polarization for the capacitors is marked on the board. When installing replacements just line up the stripe on the cap with the stripe on the PCB.
You'll need the following capacitors:
C1,3,5,8 are 47uf 16V. The originals are 7.2mm high and 5.2mm in diameter but you are actually limited to the height of the tallest relay so a more common 12.x mm tall capacitor will fit fine.
C2,6,7 are 100uf 16V. The originals are 7.9mm tall and 6.6mm in diameter etc etc.
There is no marked C4 on the board.
Rather than specify capacitor part numbers I'd suggest using the filter in Digikey’s online tool for 10000hrs of service life at 105C to select the current in-stock item that is likely to last the longest before you need to do this job again. Odds are the dimensions will be acceptable and usually there is usually only one component in stock that fits this filter, and it is intended for automotive use.
Here is a picture just after removing the board with the old relays etc in place so you can see which pins need to be desoldered to remove the board from the switch without cutting anything:
I rebuilt my wiper switch back in 2021. I haven't had any issues with it since. Removing the PCB board is the way to go. I used desoldering wick. Here's a list of components used on my S5 switch with rear wiper. There might be some variation in PCB boards for these wiper switches. The first relay listed below are the two smaller ones on top and bottom of PCB. The second relay listed is larger center relay. I believe it is for the rear wiper. This relay replaces the stock relay, which is NLA from Omron. I got this information from Omron customer service after contacting them about the original relay. This relay is taller than the stock relay and will require some trimming of plastic on the switch. Agree that you should also replace the seven electrolytic capacitors as listed below. E-caps typically have a limited lifetime of about 5-7 years before their performance starts degrading. The resistors and Zener diodes probably don't need replacing but I listed them for reference. I have no specs for the Zener diodes. I bought these components from Mouser Electronics. Some of the items listed on Mouser's site had a long lead time items. So, you might want to try an alternative source such as Digi-Key. Note that the prices I've listed are from 2021 and might have changed by now.
IICR, it was 2mm taller than the original relay. Also, it's a sealed relay whereas the original was not. So, I'm guessing that it may last longer than the original relay, but that's TBD.
