dual FC oil coolers series vs parallel pressure drop results
In the last week I finished installing dual FC oil coolers initially in series.
In series I had about a 50 PSI pressure drop at 3k rpm with only 50-60 PSI oil pressure as measured from a known good mechanical oil pressure gauge vs the 110 I am used to seeing using FD oil pressure regulators. At idle oil pressure was 30psi vs the 45 or so I am used to seeing. The FD pressure spec I have seen quoted from the manual is 50 PSI minimum at 3K rpm. So I bought the extra 120 dollars worth in fittings (TEE fittings are expensive) to convert the system to parallel and I have actually seen a gain of about 10 PSI under load (vs a single oil cooler) to 120-125 under load and 40-50 at idle. I wasn't willing to drive hard seing so little pressure so there is no good data regarding oil temps. your mileage may vary. |
That makes me a sad panda :(
So before you converted to dual coolers you had 100PSI @ 3k and it dropped to 50 PSI? :Wconfused I do have a few questions though Do you have any pics of the setup? Which coolers are you using? Did you change coolers when you went dual or just add another? Which reg/bypass are you using? Progress pics from this thread http://forum.teamfc3s.org/attachment...1&d=1193204166 |
I am using stock FC oil coolers
They are all the same Stock FD oil coolers on models with 2 factory coolers run the system in series and there is no problem with pressure drop. FD's which use similar aftermaket coolers to yours also generally run in series and have no pressure drop problems. again I am using stock FD regulators, since you are using a 13b-re (you are right) you will want to get the FD pressure regulators er bypasses like I have done, the RE came stock with 70 PSI units like the FC. What was happening in my case is there was too much restriction in hitting two coolers and the front bypass was doing what its designed for and limiting the pressure. I doubt if you will have a problem with your setup using those coolers oh and nice car. one more thing, when you go to start tuning your sequential turbo system set it up with the poor mans (very easily reversable) non sequentail. This can actually be done with a couple of check valves in the right places and a few capped un hooked vac lines. Then tune the area abvove 4k rpm, before going back to sequential to tune below 4k rpm and the transistion. You don't want to have to worry about troubleshooting the turbo's and tuning at the same time. |
PM Higgi. We were talking about the dual oil cooler a while back but can't remember all the details but I don't think he's seeing the pressure drops you see and his temps have decreased dramatically.
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Originally Posted by phoenix7
(Post 7497261)
PM Higgi. We were talking about the dual oil cooler a while back but can't remember all the details but I don't think he's seeing the pressure drops you see and his temps have decreased dramatically.
I suppose its possible that my front bypass could be weak. |
he's using 2 stock ICs. Why would I tell you to go ask someone if it didn't apply?
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Originally Posted by slo
(Post 7497251)
I am using stock FC oil coolers
They are all the same
Originally Posted by slo
(Post 7497251)
Stock FD oil coolers on models with 2 factory coolers run the system in series and there is no problem with pressure drop.
FD's which use similar aftermaket coolers to yours also generally run in series and have no pressure drop problems. again I am using stock FD regulators, since you are using a 13b-re (you are right) you will want to get the FD pressure regulators er bypasses like I have done, the RE came stock with 70 PSI units like the FC. Yes the RE has the FC regs and you are right - going all FD regs & bypass spring.
Originally Posted by slo
(Post 7497251)
What was happening in my case is there was too much restriction in hitting two coolers and the front bypass was doing what its designed for and limiting the pressure.
I doubt if you will have a problem with your setup using those coolers oh and nice car.
Originally Posted by slo
(Post 7497251)
one more thing, when you go to start tuning your sequential turbo system set it up with the poor mans (very easily reversable) non sequentail. This can actually be done with a couple of check valves in the right places and a few capped un hooked vac lines. Then tune the area abvove 4k rpm, before going back to sequential to tune below 4k rpm and the transistion. You don't want to have to worry about troubleshooting the turbo's and tuning at the same time.
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54990&page=5 |
THIS is very interesting...I've been thinking of doing something like this for a while now...
Can you please post pics? Have you ever tried doing a v-mount oil cooler setup (dual stock FC oil coolers stock position in front of the radiator, in a 90*V-angle setup)? Does this make sense/would work good, or is it retarded? |
The way that makes sense comes from the 80's competition manual
The oil cooler was mounted on the Underbelly tray, parallel to the ground (with the underbelly tray cut to the size of oil cooler so hot air goes under the car in a vaccuum effect) with a duct that comes from the lower part of the front opening to the back of the oil cooler. This allowed the radiator and oil cooler to get their own, unadulterated, ambient air supply (which will be cooler than the temps of a high revving, nice HP race car in the middle of a race). I have to look but I have the schematics somewhere. I'll look into the Mazda Comp oil cooler and if it's still available too. |
looks mean with that oil cooler
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i run 2 stock FC oil coolers in series, mazdatrix (or RB?) 75-80psi regulator and good oil pump and my oil pressure on warmed up oil is 5 bar over 2000 rpm and higher....
cold oil its 6 bar, lowest pressure at idle - 2 bar.. both coolers have thermostats in them, working... oil pressure measured under oil filter with trustable aftermarket gauge (apexi) |
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