diff AFM, car now starts everytime, BUT
 

now that the car starts with the different AFM, it doesnt stay started

i can give it gas and keep it going, but it wont idle...

me and a friend tested the resistance at the TPS, and think its faulty, but we also think the multimeter may be at fault as well ..

so ive been reading old threads all morning, and have noticed several people mentioning disconnecting the TPS ... if i do this what should i expect ...

i know the fuel pump works, but im going to check tonight to make sure im getting fuel thru the filter ...

just wondering if anyone could answer my question about the TPS not being connected and what to expect ..
i know the timing is off, but i cant set that until i can get a steady idle ...

help :D

What rpm will it idle at when you give it gas (the lowest before it stalls?)

multi meter alsmost never give false readings.

it wont idle period .... if i let off it might hiccup a few times below 1000rpm but only for like a half second and then just die ... it doesnt stutter going up in rmp though

up

i had that problem man, turned out the AFM i bought from o'reileys was broken out of the box.... bought one from santiago and it fixed my problem instantly... check and make sure the new AFM is a GOOD one first

What rpm can you keep it running at, say if you held it at 1500 would it stay running? It's possible you've got vac leaks/etc.

no it doesnt stay running ... i tried keeping it reved up for a minute or so, and then tried to let it idle, but it just sputtered out ... im pretty sure the afm is good, cause the other one i took out wouldnt even allow it to start, now it starts everytime , it just wont idle ... let go of the gas and it just falls and dies

i can keep it running at any rpm as long as im giving it gas

98% of the time this is vac leaks, adjust the idle to whatever point you can get it to idle at, (lower is better), then spray the shit out of it with carb cleaner and eventually you should hit a spot that'll cause it to smoothen out whatever RPM it's at, or it'll stall out. Other than that, just check for error codes, but if you can keep it running at an RPM by keeping your foot on the pedal, it's generally a vac leak.

hmmm

would no fuel or bad fuel flow be a factor?

It could be, have you done any mods to your car? My car won't idle until it's reached operating temps now.

yeah .... several mods ...

series 5 jspec upper and lower intake
s4 bareblock
series 5 turbo/maifold
no emmissions
tb mod
dual pulley
rb full turbo back exhaust

im going to check for fuel flow tonight, and also going to unplug the TPS ...

maybe it will idle then ... even if its high, i might be able to adjust the timing then

If it runs fine at higher rpm's, I'd be willing to bet it's not your fuel pump.

well i know the fuel pump works, cause we jumpered it and we could hear it .... but maybe the fuel filter (which hasnt been changed in over a year (most of which is was just sitting), so maybe its clogged up good, and not allowing enogh fuel to pass thru ??

anyone else have any ideas?

Sounds like Vac leak.

Like said above get some carb cleaner and spray around your manifolds to hear if your car sputters or goes weird. You just found the point where it's sucking in air.

For now just adjust the little 8mm nut and screw on the back of the TB so it idles high where it actually does run.

You can now trouble shoot without holding the throttle.

Once you find the leak you could probably go ghetto and just smear the shit out of it with RTV or actually replace the gasket.

On my rebuild I put RTV on every point. Between the TB and plastic plate and TB elbow,etc where ever I didn't have a brand new gasket. My baby won't idle under 1k right now but that's because it's brand new.

Fuel not it. It would be opposite if it were that. You would run shitty higher up due to lack/leaning out or bad gas.

ok, so can i disconnect the TPS, and then adjust the screw on the TB ... it should atleast stay started then right?

not sure with the TPS out but I guess so.

Check the TPS with a DMM(multi meter/ set to ohms)

www.fcs3pro.com has a write up on it.

well ive done that, and it was crapped out , im pretty sure....

up

man, with all those mods you got to the intake system, no tellin what might be wrong...if you have a 1K ohm resistor you can place it between the Brown/White and Green/ Red pins on the engine side of the harness (86-88), that will rule out the TPS as a suspect if it's doing the same thing...or just read out pin 2G at the ECU to verify the 1 volt or so at idle (if your foot's on the gas to keep it running, the voltage will be different, probably lower)

im going to unplug the tps and try it ... im also going to try to just adjust the idle screw in hopes of atleast keeping it alive to check for vaccum ...

well ill tell you what man the bad AFM i had started the car like a beut all the time but once wouldnt hold an idle for crap... the reason i found out it was the AFM was cause i thought i wasnt getting fuel so i changed out the fuel filter (was about time anyway) and that made the car bog like hell so i knew i was getting wwwwwayyy too much fuel and no air, swapped out the AFM and it fixed it... DAMN O'REILYS... btw i noticed you did the TB mod... with that done you might have to adjust the dashpot on the side of the TB to make the idle hold... i know i had to otherwise i my car would die at every stop... that could be the only problem check it out first.... good luck

wouldnt a vacc leak cause a higher idle? cause its sucking in more air past the afm. . . so the afm isnt measuring it and would therefore be lean. . . causing a higher idle.

cause. . . a vacc leak isnt a leak at all. . . its either a BOOST leak or a vacc sucking in type thing. :D

paul