I have been following this guide: http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=54847

Now I cut off the main seal on the rack, removed the spring on the outer rack seal. I used an extension and socket to push out the oil seal and busing in the middle of the rack, took out the spring on the seal. Now here is where I have a question. Does the bushing go back in with the lip facing towards me as I am pushing it in or does the lip of the bushing face towards the quill? If you don't know which bushing I am talking about, on the writeup its the 5th picture from the last one. The one in the middle right circled in blue.

And does anybody know what size socket will fit perfectly when reinstalling that center bushing/seal? Im afraid of not having one big enough and breaking the oil seal, or having the bigger one get stuck in there.

Another thing, is there any specific torque specs I should tighten the lock nuts/bolts in the middle and bottom of the rack when reassembling? I didn't see anything on the FSM so I was thinking of just tight enough maybe 60ft/lb?

Thats about all the questions I have right now. Looking forward to some help....

 

you should pm Titanium TT... he probably isn't on there anymore. Heres the link to the same thread on rcc:
http://rotarycarclub.com/rotary_foru...ead.php?t=7900
And you should be able to pm him or comment on the thread there once you make an account. Sorry i couldnt be more help.

edit- I think he should be here too, i haven't searched his name but you should to avoid the whole run around

 

The torque settings are actually quite low. Dont use 60ft/lbs.

 

Old news. Use the Flyin' Miata method. This was copied in the 2nd Gen Archive archive in 2005. This is the method I used on my old TII and it worked great.

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-gen-archive-72/how-de-power-your-steering-rack-right-way-440198/

/

 

Sorry to thread jack, but is there any way to just decrease the power assist from the power steering system? An under drive pulley perhaps? Anything else besides that?

I want my steering to be stiffer, but I do not want to go manual rack either.

 

To the above question: Remove the pump. It will be really bad either way because you still have play from the rack that you need to weld up and you will be pushing fluid around with no/less power assist.

I'll repost the specs for the torque here. I PM'ed Titanium TT, but until then still curious as to which way the bushing goes in. Thanks for the replies so far.

Torque Specs:

Bottom Nut = 25 ft/lb
Cover for bottom nut = 35 ft/lb
Middle Cover = 43 in/lb 3 times, back off 25 degrees
Tighten Lock Nut While Holding Cover In Place (No Specified Torque)

 

I actually have no play in the system, my rack and pinion is in really good shape.

There has to be a way to decrease the operating pressure of the pump. I don't want to depower the system, I just want less assist from the PS pump.

 

Got a PM back from Titanium TT, it's been a while for him so he couldn't remember exactly how it went in exept in the pictures he took he placed everything the way it came out.

But, I got it figured out just now too. For anyone having trouble reinstalling the bushing. The oil seal holds the bushing in place (found out the hard way after trying to pound it in with a BFG), and I reinstalled the bushing with the lip facing towards me, which I believe it's the way it came out unless it flipped on the way out. The oil seal goes in after the bushing with the lip also facing you (spring side). Now everything is in there nice and firm.

I just used a socket that fits right on the outer edge of the oil seal to push it and the bushing into place. Worked out fine.

Thanks for all the help.

 

look up threads by Black91n/a. He did a Write up on depowering a rack.

 

There is play in every hydraulic assist power steering rack because there's a valve in the input side that allows some play in order to activate the boost. It's not really noticable with power, but without it can be.

 

I got the rack back in the car. I got everything bolted up wheels on the ground. Check the steering wheel, feels firm, no play. But when I wigle it fast I hear a small clunk coming from the pinion/quill area. It just sounds like the rack and pinion gears hitting each other.

I figured my backlash was not set right, I took everything out, torqued the backlash to 42inch/lb, backed off 25 degrees. Rack was too tight. Retorqued to 42in/lb, backed off 45 degrees. Felt good. Put everything back on, wheels on the ground. Check the steering wheel, its just a little stiffer (not by much), no play. Wiggle it back and forth fast, small clunk still there I can't tell if the noise is less though, just that its still there...

I am wondering if of you guys who depowered your rack have that small clunk when shaking the steering wheel fast coming from the quill area? Or if not, how did you properly adjust the backlash to stop it?

It doesn't make the noise when turning the wheel smoothly left to right though, just when wiggling it fast, could this be normal and I am just being the OCD person I am? I can't even remember if my rack was like this to begin with, though the gears were fine when pulled out of the rack.

Thanks again....

 

Anybody else experience this noise with the car off when wiggling the steering wheel? I am starting to think it was like this to begin with, but just want to verify....

 

Well I removed the sway bar with the front up, i was able to access the nut/bolt to play with the backlash. I tightened it down all the way just to see if it would make any difference, same thing. So I readjusted the nut as I had it before I jacked it up and put the car down.

So basically my rack is like this already, I was being paranoid, so there is nothing I need to worry about. Steering is nice and tight, no slack so the smallest input can be seen on the wheels as you turn the steering wheel, very nice...

I will have the car ready for a drive tomorrow as I finish up putting my injectors in. Hope this helps anyone in the future.

 

Mine did the same thing, I think its the play in the quill your hearing. Welding it solid will fix that.

 

Thats what I thought too, but it did get welded solid... Which is why I emphasized I have no slack or play in the steering wheel. The smallest increments can be seen when turning the steering wheel, before I remember I had a few degrees of slack when I had the power steering. I belive it might just be the tolerances from the gears on the quill hitting the rack when shaken hard, but overall nothing to worry about.