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Quote:

Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection (Post 7497402)

Wow, an actual useful post from Toyo Kogyo.

It took me about a week to do this work, as usual for one engine job. I just snapped pics and took notes along the way to help with the writeup later. As for doing the writeup text to match the pics, well that took about a week, working 1-2 hours daily. As for putting the pics in the writeup, that took me most of today.

As far as the lapped iron debate, most of the failed engines/irons had <10k on them. In fact, I just had a conversation with a small shop owner who was talking to me about doing some work. He was telling me of a conversation he had with mazdatrix' engine builder who actually recommended against lapping the irons if at all possible for the same reasons I mentioned. Now, this is secondhand information so don't quote me on that, but my stance remains the same...the risk and cost isn't worth whatever you hope to gain.

mazdatrix wrote me this, just an fyi.

"We have not found it necessary to re-nitride. We lap all engines we build, and have not seen any wear difference. There is a thickness (water seal groove depth) that is a minimum. We have found .056" to be the minimum, and we rarely lap more than about .010" off. This means the starting depth needs to be at least .066. New they are about .072."

Quote:

Originally Posted by micaheli (Post 7507243)

Hows that number looking now Kevin?

still pretty pitiful. Only about another 2-3 gigs in the last couple of days.

I think a bash loop and wget is in order. :)

Great write up Kevin! I think I will try to rebuild my own next time. Then send it to you when it gloriously fails!! (I'm impatient)

Good read. Defintely read a few things I didn't even think of/knew about.

Kevin,
Great stuff. Wish you had posted this earlier. I could have used the pointers a few months ago. Before I started my first rebuild - I've since done 6 and it gets easier each time. Your tricks would have been helpful from the getgo however

Nonetheless THANK YOU.

Regards,
Crispy

PS I'm envious of your used parts "supply." ;)

dont feel bad, think of how much money ppl will save when two, three, even four years from now ppl are still referencing back to this instead of purchasing the rebuild videos from mazdatrix and others.

c'mon ppl this is a free great rebuild resource all the more reason to stop sitting on the fence and rebuild your first like you've always wanted too! haha

Wow, AWESOME writeup!!!

This is an excellent writeup. I've printed it all out in color and all the pages are going into protective plastic sleeves in a binder.

Question : You refer to "gunmetal" paint for the rotor housings and yet searching for "gunmetal site:dupli-color.com" yields no results. I noticed that one of the paints is wheel paint, not engine paint but neither product group offers a gunmetal. Is the wheel paint HWP102 Graphite?

Thanks again for an amazing new resource.

Yes, they label it as graphite.

Quote:

Originally Posted by RotaryResurrection (Post 7517330)

Yes, they label it as graphite.

Ok, thanks. I've visited several auto parts stores over the past week or so and several of them complained that Dupli-color must be holding out on them with these new colors! :rlaugh: