I would, I'm just pretty broke right now. Need front tires soon, tuning, and other stuff.

Hmmm, I don't know the factory specs on a fc but when I was setting up other vehicles I tried for -.5*camber and usually -.25-.75* toe as a starting point. At one time I was actually running upwards of -1.3* camber to get the best handleing out of the ranger with 255/50/17's on the front and 275/40's on the rear.... Stock settings are great for tire wear, but you can do a little tweaking and get a better handeling vehicle. I also always had mine set just like I was drving it (IE me in it, 1/2 tank of gas, anything I ran with in it, etc) to set try alignment not just be able to hit specs, but then again I would usually play with my alugnment 2 or 3 times a year so maybe I took it to far.

As far as those bolts I have installed similar in several vehicles and never had a problem out of them.

-.75 degree toe???????? I hope you're not driving that on the highway.....darty mofo that would be.

usually, convention for toe-in is positive toe and negative for toe-out.

The fear comes from going on a road course with those things and neglecting maintenance. One would hate to have their bolts slip mid corner and send them into a wall.

camber in the rear does change quite a bit with ride height, and its got a fairly long travel at the wheel too.

[QUOTE=Roen;7635348The fear comes from going on a road course with those things and neglecting maintenance. One would hate to have their bolts slip mid corner and send them into a wall.[/QUOTE]

yeah the spec miatas have that happen all the time, you put sticky tires on the car, and its enough to loosen the adjuster bolts...

Maybe I could try to figure a way to make it stay more secure.

drill new holes on the shock tower... notch the bottom fo the strut....

I have these on my 88 vert and they were fine to bring the camber back to spec after installing the racing Beat springs on my KYB struts. I used one set to replace the top bolt on my struts. If you drop you car more than 1.5 inch you may need to use a set on top and a set on the bottom to get more adjustment.
They have not moved from where I set them when I did an alignment and durability should not be an issue as they are made from hardened steel.
Cheap and effective for the need I had.
Definetly would go for camber plates for a more radical drop using coilovers.

thank you slpin, thats what i said to begin with if you are too broke for camber plates, coil overs, or w/e else.

peace