I actually just spent the last two weekends installing a Fidanza lightweight flywheel, exedy stage 1 clutch, and a LSD (from a 88 GXL model). It was my first time doing a clutch job and it was definatly a learning experience. Make sure you have everything you need first!! It took me awhile being that it was my first time and I was doing everything myself (including installing the tranny) but I have the satisfaction of knowing it was done right and not half ass.
It's a bit pricey if you have to purchase the tools to do the job but you will have them on hand if you ever need to do it again.
I suggest having the following tools on hand, either bought or borrowed;
Tranny Jack, Impact Gun, Air Compressor, Socket for the Flywheel Nut, Torque Wrench, 2 sets of Jackstands, Pilot Bearing Removal Tool...
As for parts/supplies;
Rear Main Seal, Pilot Bearing, Pilot Bearing Seal, High Temperature Semi Synthetic Grease, Clutch Allignment Tool, Throw Out Bearing, Front and Rear Transmission Seal w/ Gasket (RB has a great deal on this combo), Thread Lock (for the Flywheel bolt), Tranny Fluid, New Exhaust Gaskets, New Gasket for the shifter and possible a New Inner Shift Lever Boot, Blue RTV Sealant...
Have fun!!!

pistones or w/e...
stop being a pain in the ass...
instead of being degrading, u could maybe HELP him through it, and tell him what he needs instead of trying to "bet" that he'll get stuck...

and thats alot of help soma for someone who is wondering what they need!

Thank you guy's... That makes me feel confident to crack her open and do work!!!!:icon_tup:

One suggestion is that when you're putting the tranny back in, you'll have to tilt the engine to get it to line up with the tranny.

Ok, didn't have any of those, but I will say they would of most likely made it A LOT easier.

Yes, loosen engine mounts on the unibody side, tilt engine back. It helps if you have someone doing this and turning the engine slowly (clockwise) with a socket at the eccentric shaft bolt at the front (to help the input shaft spline on the tranny find the grooves in the clutch disk). Also, make sure you use a clutch centering tool (usually comes in clutch kits) when installing the clutch disk and pressure plate.

ok excuse me for being "cup half empty", this guy just seemed like he was making the clutch swap look like a walk in the park. when anything automotive can "potentially" be a pain in the ass as SOMA pointed out. it took him two weekends and a shit load of tools, probably a lot of running back and forth to get tools. when all is said and done he probably would have just paid the money and had the clutch installed and running the same day he dropped it off. weigh out your options is my point, not trying to discourage any DIY-er from learning. i along with most people on this forum have come through the same way of learning the hard way. i am a professional mechanic now and still run into work that kicks my ass and i have full utilization of shop tools, lift, torch,and compressor. so SLVRbullet think it over, it might be 1,2,3 or it might be a nightmare that takes a few weekends if you are working alone. do you need your car running asap or it doesn't really matter if your car sits for a few weeks, depends on your situation. good luck

Im in no hurry i have until the end of the month to change the clutch and i ordered a 6 puck last night so as soon as it comes i will do a write up on it with pics and maybee help out another DIY-er...

The clutch takes time to DIY, that's one thing I'd pay for it. But hey, lots of people do DIY. Up to you.

You didn't have the socket for the flywheel nut?? :)
Yeah, a whole lot of people have done the job with a whole lot less!

I didn't lossen the engine mounts but I could see how it would help.
I just jacked the front end of the vehicle slightly higher so there was more of an angle. Slide the driveshaft back in and rotate it in order to line up the input shaft splines to the clutch disk. If you align everything correctly it will just slide right in without too much effort. The hard part is just clearing the end of the tranny where the shift lever goes. Don't try to muscle it to much into place or you might damage the pilot bearing seal.

Good point, if it were my other car, it would be going straight to the mechanic without a second thought! But my FC is my baby and I can't let anybody touch her!!

clutch changes are pie as long as you have the right tools and follow directions, be careful with the reverse/5th switch wires that attach to the transmission. I bought a transmission jack from harbor freight for $70 and it was totally worth it made the job a lot easier. When installing the new clutch MAKE SURE the disc is centered. If you don't that transmission will NOT go on. I figured that out the hard way the first time.

- Jared

i bought that exact clutch F1 Stage 3 racing clutch off ebay - good price good clutch. and im glad i came across this thread - i have to install my new clutch this weekend - ugh - thank goodness i have another car in case i do run into problems.

Can you install the clutch without resurfacing the flywheel?? Any cons to this? since taking of the flywheel must be one of the hardest parts, also can this job be done on the floor with a normal Jack?

You will find flywheel removal instructions in the FAQ, as well as definitions of common acronyms (like FSM), and a link to the FSM so you can download it. :)