Changing the clutch!!!!
 

I need to change my clutch.. How do i do this????

Clutch mart wants 485 to replace it!!! F that... I will be attempting to do it on my own... I assume you just take off the drive shaft, starter, then drop the trans and pull the clutch, replace and bolt back together...

Wrong??? Any suggestions/ tips on doing the replacement???

+ drop the exhaust, remove the clutch slave cylinder, and take out the necessary plugs and switches.

you will also want to resurface the flywheel.

But from your other thread you are going for a drift car you might want to purchase a lightened flywheel. and go with a good aftermarket clutch thats gonna be able to take some abuse as you will probably be kicking it alot.

Sweet thanks man...
Im looking at the ebay F1 stage 3clutch.. (on a budget)!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F1-RA...spagenameZWDVW
You thik this is any good???

Also about how much is it to resurface the clutch???

My honda buddies have used this on their turbo budget cars. Its been holding up well over the last year. And they've been doing alot of racing on it. dumping the clutch for burnouts and what not.

if your on a budget a exedy will do. they're pretty much oem spec I believe.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/EXEDY...em150225322941

$485 is a perfectly reasonable amount of money for a job like this if it also includes the price of the new clutch components. Clutch replacement requires removal of the transmission, and to do it properly the flywheel must be machined. While you are there you should replace the transmission front and rear seal, inspect the engine rear main seal (or just replace) and inspect the u-joints.

Suddenly $485 to do a proper job seems a bit cheap. Figure $200 for new clutch parts (probably higher), $100 for machine shop fees to turn the flywheel, and $200 labour.

Yeah, I'd pay that. I changed out my clutch/pp/flywheel, did the tranny front and rear seals, the engine rear seal, pilot bearing, and throwout bearing. I would've paid someone over $200 in labor to do that, it wasn't very fun.

If your gonna drift your gonna have to learn to work on your own car cause your gonna break it, a lot. Paying someone else to do it is just pissing away money. This is a great project for a beginner to learn to do and once you do it the first time it won't scare you to do it over and over again which your gonna do drifting due to tearing up clutch disks.
On a side note speaking of clutches, I'd suggest an ACT. I personally had great service out of them. Plus the ability to mix and match clutch components till you acheive the feel and lockup you want is great too.

Tell me about it. I had to drop my tranny and pull and install the pilot bearing with a thrown out back. I was in soooo much pain, but I had to make it back to school. It SUCKED.

ive done this job a countless number of time both on my back in the driveway and in a shop with a lift. yea it sucks but its not hard by any maeans. the worst part will be the flyweel nut. either way have fun youll be doing this alot if you drift.

For never doing one before this would be a good learning experince for you. This one is one of the easier ones to do compared to many other cars.

Pressure plate is lighter then stock, and doesn't hold much power.
Waste of money..........

do you know how much the tools are gonna cost to do this job? you are probably better off paying to do it, if it is your first FC clutch then most likely you will get stuck being unprepared.

whhhaaa? It's basic tools besides the Pilot bearing puller and you can rent that from Advance for nothin'.

Its easy, pull the exhaust, heat shield, starter, slave cylinder, driveshaft and trans. The flywheel nut is gonna be a pain but not too bad. It also helps if you lean the engine back to get to the top transmission bolts. I used an engine hoist and a 2x4 under the front of the engine.

$30 for flywheel nut socket and whatever the pilot bearing puller cost depends on if you buy it or rent it. other than that its basic handtools. i will say this that flywheel nut is a bitch w/o air tools!

the FSM is your friend!

I have a bad ass breaker bar... How is this bolt set up???
It would really help if some one had a clutch in Trani pic so i know what to look for , maybe my clutch itself is fine and the fork is just outa wack... IDK till i crack it open!!!

Thanks!!!

Obviously you cannot read. :icon_no2:

Obviously i dont know what that stands for!!!!:dunno:!!!

FSM = Factory Service Manual

The FSM owns you. Almost everything you'll need to know to do any work on your car.

If you dont have airtools though, the flywheel nut WILL be a bitch to get off.

Factory service manual.

I'm also dropping my tranny for the second time in a month or two. Its not that bad if your car is not too rusted.

just dont buy a SPEC!!!!!!!!

who wants to bet he gets stuck on something?

I managed to change a clutch (alone, sans a bit of lifting help) with my only previous experience with cars being putting fluids in. :)

true, clutches aren't rocket science. i'm just saying he said that he's never installed an FC clutch before, therefore he is overconfident in thinking it's a normal clutch job. did anyone mention that the flywheel nut is sometimes frozen with a ton of torque on it? did anyone mention that the flywheel sometimes love to be seized onto the e shaft? if he's doing all this on the floor, i doubt it will go smoothly.

I actually just spent the last two weekends installing a Fidanza lightweight flywheel, exedy stage 1 clutch, and a LSD (from a 88 GXL model). It was my first time doing a clutch job and it was definatly a learning experience. Make sure you have everything you need first!! It took me awhile being that it was my first time and I was doing everything myself (including installing the tranny) but I have the satisfaction of knowing it was done right and not half ass.
It's a bit pricey if you have to purchase the tools to do the job but you will have them on hand if you ever need to do it again.
I suggest having the following tools on hand, either bought or borrowed;
Tranny Jack, Impact Gun, Air Compressor, Socket for the Flywheel Nut, Torque Wrench, 2 sets of Jackstands, Pilot Bearing Removal Tool...
As for parts/supplies;
Rear Main Seal, Pilot Bearing, Pilot Bearing Seal, High Temperature Semi Synthetic Grease, Clutch Allignment Tool, Throw Out Bearing, Front and Rear Transmission Seal w/ Gasket (RB has a great deal on this combo), Thread Lock (for the Flywheel bolt), Tranny Fluid, New Exhaust Gaskets, New Gasket for the shifter and possible a New Inner Shift Lever Boot, Blue RTV Sealant...
Have fun!!!

pistones or w/e...
stop being a pain in the ass...
instead of being degrading, u could maybe HELP him through it, and tell him what he needs instead of trying to "bet" that he'll get stuck...

and thats alot of help soma for someone who is wondering what they need!

Thank you guy's... That makes me feel confident to crack her open and do work!!!!:icon_tup:

One suggestion is that when you're putting the tranny back in, you'll have to tilt the engine to get it to line up with the tranny.

Ok, didn't have any of those, but I will say they would of most likely made it A LOT easier.

Yes, loosen engine mounts on the unibody side, tilt engine back. It helps if you have someone doing this and turning the engine slowly (clockwise) with a socket at the eccentric shaft bolt at the front (to help the input shaft spline on the tranny find the grooves in the clutch disk). Also, make sure you use a clutch centering tool (usually comes in clutch kits) when installing the clutch disk and pressure plate.

ok excuse me for being "cup half empty", this guy just seemed like he was making the clutch swap look like a walk in the park. when anything automotive can "potentially" be a pain in the ass as SOMA pointed out. it took him two weekends and a shit load of tools, probably a lot of running back and forth to get tools. when all is said and done he probably would have just paid the money and had the clutch installed and running the same day he dropped it off. weigh out your options is my point, not trying to discourage any DIY-er from learning. i along with most people on this forum have come through the same way of learning the hard way. i am a professional mechanic now and still run into work that kicks my ass and i have full utilization of shop tools, lift, torch,and compressor. so SLVRbullet think it over, it might be 1,2,3 or it might be a nightmare that takes a few weekends if you are working alone. do you need your car running asap or it doesn't really matter if your car sits for a few weeks, depends on your situation. good luck

Im in no hurry i have until the end of the month to change the clutch and i ordered a 6 puck last night so as soon as it comes i will do a write up on it with pics and maybee help out another DIY-er...

The clutch takes time to DIY, that's one thing I'd pay for it. But hey, lots of people do DIY. Up to you.

You didn't have the socket for the flywheel nut?? :)
Yeah, a whole lot of people have done the job with a whole lot less!

I didn't lossen the engine mounts but I could see how it would help.
I just jacked the front end of the vehicle slightly higher so there was more of an angle. Slide the driveshaft back in and rotate it in order to line up the input shaft splines to the clutch disk. If you align everything correctly it will just slide right in without too much effort. The hard part is just clearing the end of the tranny where the shift lever goes. Don't try to muscle it to much into place or you might damage the pilot bearing seal.

Good point, if it were my other car, it would be going straight to the mechanic without a second thought! But my FC is my baby and I can't let anybody touch her!!

clutch changes are pie as long as you have the right tools and follow directions, be careful with the reverse/5th switch wires that attach to the transmission. I bought a transmission jack from harbor freight for $70 and it was totally worth it made the job a lot easier. When installing the new clutch MAKE SURE the disc is centered. If you don't that transmission will NOT go on. I figured that out the hard way the first time.

- Jared

i bought that exact clutch F1 Stage 3 racing clutch off ebay - good price good clutch. and im glad i came across this thread - i have to install my new clutch this weekend - ugh - thank goodness i have another car in case i do run into problems.

Can you install the clutch without resurfacing the flywheel?? Any cons to this? since taking of the flywheel must be one of the hardest parts, also can this job be done on the floor with a normal Jack?

You will find flywheel removal instructions in the FAQ, as well as definitions of common acronyms (like FSM), and a link to the FSM so you can download it. :)