2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Car won't shift into gear when running

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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 05:38 AM
  #1  
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CA Car won't shift into gear when running

My s5 rx7 won't shift into 1st gear from neutral when the car is running, but I can shift into any gear when the car is off. I can start the car on 1st gear and it'll drive straight. When you step on the clutch pedal, it goes all the way down, but won't pop back up. I have to move it back up with my shoe. I added dot 3 fluid and still same thing.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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If the clutch pedal doesn't pop back up it is a hydraulic problem.
Most likely a bad slave.
You have to check the system for leaks and replace whatever it needs,whether it be master,slave or rubber line.
If you search this problem you will find tons of threads on it.It will inform you that you need to re-bleed your system too.It can be a "do it right the first time" thing or you end up having to bleed the living BeJesus out of it.
Air just doesn't like co-operating with the hydraulics that much..hahha!

By the way,just adding fluid will not make this symptom go away.Its Parts buying time.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 08:22 AM
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ugh, this reminds me I need to do this when I go to pull mine out of storage. My master leaks ever so slightly "somewhere" . And every year the pedal plops to the floor when I go to take it from storage.

Mine is leaking into the interior... well, that's like, my assumption at this point.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 10:37 AM
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Yup, hydraulic problem. If no leaks are visible, the master could even be bad internally. Hmmmmm , wait, clutch master only has one seal I think.

For sure a brake master could not be sealing properly with no visible outside leaks.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 11:01 AM
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I say replace tho whole system. The parts are not expensive and they usually have them at the auto parts store. I think I paid around 150 for the master slave and soft line.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 11:23 AM
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$150 is waaay too much.
Probably $50-75 from Rock Auto.

But yes, replace all three components at the same time.
Unless you really enjoy the bleeding process, in which case replace them one at a time and triple your pleasure.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 12:15 PM
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The braided line and bleeder put me over cost. Don't think the braided line was worth it
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 02:07 PM
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The braided line is cheaper than the Mazda one. Also if your clutch hydraulics are good then your throughout bearing is gone.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 11:23 PM
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Lets assume that the transmission is good before I look into an exedy clutch kit. What parts would I need to buy to fix my problem?

master cylinder, slave cylinder, and clutch hoses? Or do I need to get something else?
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 11:28 PM
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From: Mile High
Fluid.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 11:55 PM
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http://m.napaonline.com/parts/PartsDetail.aspx?k=UBK38761_0283048113

is that the correct one and how many hoses do I need?
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 06:10 AM
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As stated above, go to RockAuto and purchase the following from
the same warehouse:

Hose H68761 $9.07
Master cyl MC210 $16.26
Slave cyl SC611 $8.82

Total $34.15 + @ $12.00 shipping

Use code BA1FBD50F6CF (expires 3/20/14) for a 5% discount on parts
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 07:09 AM
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Thank you, Turbonut!

Around 4:30am, I was outside checking the cylinders and found out that my clutch pedal is now popping back up. I'm guessing it's because I added fluid the other night when I found out it was empty. Keep in mind that this car did sat for about 6 years before I bought it.

I also found out that my hose in the engine bay is torn which was causing the whole problem with the pedal. I noticed a small leak coming from it and had to wake my uncle up to come step on the pedal while I check to see if it was just wet from the rain or the fluid. Turns out it was the fluid. I then took the car for a test drive around the neighborhood and it seems to be back to normal. Probably needs to bleed again eventually since there is a leak.

Nonetheless these cars are old and since this car is mostly stock, I'll be replacing the master cylinder, slave cylinder, and clutch hose.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 08:13 AM
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If your're doing the work yourself, you'll also need a small jar and a length of tubing to go over the bleed screw on the slave cylinder to bleed the system out. With all new components, it's take a while to completley bleed the system. Also, you'll need an 8mm wrench.
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Old Jan 31, 2014 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by kborro01
With all new components, it's take a while to completley bleed the system. Also, you'll need an 8mm wrench.
And a 10mm flare nut wrench.

Just to be contrarian...
When I replaced my clutch hydraulics last year, it took about five pumps of the pedal and I had clutch.
Probably spent less than 10 minutes on the whole job.

Conversely, I helped a forum member with his clutch and it took forever to finally get some pedal, so it can go either way.
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Old Feb 11, 2014 | 05:52 PM
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i had the same problem on my vert ended up being the master cyclinder if its losing fluid u shouldnt have a problem telling where its coming from itll be wet the parts are not expence as stated as above.
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Old Feb 12, 2014 | 08:31 AM
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roTAR needz fundZ
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Originally Posted by kborro01
If your're doing the work yourself, you'll also need a small jar and a length of tubing to go over the bleed screw on the slave cylinder to bleed the system out. With all new components, it's take a while to completley bleed the system. Also, you'll need an 8mm wrench.
I cheat, I take a length of tubing and run it back into the master cylinder reservoir, fill it full of fluid, open the bleeder on the slave, and just pump like crazy in the car. Makes bleeding the clutch system easy and a one person job
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Old Feb 14, 2014 | 05:12 PM
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Mitty-vac helps a lot with this and brakes especially.
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