Car stalled on interstate????
 

I was driving on the interstate and my 87 TII just stalled out! I pulled over I cranked but wouldnt start, my brother came and push started me, car wont Ideal at all it drops almost to stalling out then goes up slightly idels about 300 RPMs, I turned the car off now wont start.

Im gonna look at it more in the morning change the fuel filter and check for spark and check and see if I maybe blew my seals.
any other suggestions on what to check??? any ideas???

thanks alot!

Compression check........:(

yep Im preying I didnt blow my engine!

the motor just quit? check the fuel.......filter and pump......make sure the pump has power going to it......

Check to make sure one of the big vac hoses/intake hoses didnt come loose. :)

Im finally off to my work to check out my car, If it was the fuel pump I wouldnt be able to push start it and drive it would I???

not if it's the fuel pump.

had the same prob do compression check first. turns out the seals were blown in mine when it started had to have my foot on the gas the whole time or car would stall. interesting drive considering 2 feet 3 pedels

Thast exactly what I had to do lastnight it is interesting.
If its blow any one wanna buy my car!!!! LOL

same thing was happening to me, i would be in slow traffic on the freeway and my car would just suddenly die, and i would constantly have to gas it, and it would die sometimes coming to a stop. Turns out i had a blown seal.

you are sure it was the fuel pump......last time my TII died like that and would not turn on it turned out that the TID(the intake tube to the turbo) came off and the mass airflow was not reading anything.......don't jmp to conclusions just yet

I took out the bottom spark plugs, forgot to take out the egi fues blew flames, took out the fuse I can hear and feel the rotors going back an forth insync with on another. do the flames mean Im getting gas??? also is that enough to tell me its not blown or do i need to borrow a compersion tester???

I took off the IC pipe I cant see any vac hoses disconnected, all the IC pipes and TID are tight..... could it be my AFM went bad???
I think im gonna go buy new spark plugs and a fuel filter see if that helps and I have a FD fuel pump I havnt installed yet so ill do that as well.

Check the AFM or similar if you've got compression, chances are it's a vac leak if you've got compression/etc.

if you take the plugs out you should hear a solid thunk when you turn the engine over by hand one for each rotor if its a whisp then you blew a seal. fyi when doing a compression test disconnect the ign coils or flames will come out, not a good thing for the car

well I replaced the spark plugs nothing changed, coils are working, I can smell fuel after cranking it for a couple secs. when i took the bottom plugs out and turned the engine over they shot flames cause i forgot to take out the EGI fuese, that says to me that there is fuel.
I think im done for the day my ride is leaving and I have no other way of transportation ill do a acctuall comression test in tom. some time...this suxs!

Im gonna check the AFM today, is there any way to check the ECU??? any other ideas?

compression in the rear rotor is 75 PSI!!!!! ITS DEAD isnt it???
Im another victam of being a dumbass and not doing things proper, should have ported the wastegate and got a SAFC, but I wasnt even boosting much only 5-7 PSI, I boosted to 12 PSI in third a couple time about 3 weeks ago but since been keeping it at 5-7 not pushing it to hard I thought i would be safe guess not!

ANY one wanna buy it 87 TII brand new KYB AGXs and ebiach springs, RB 2.5" DP to straight pipe to RB 2.5" cat back, FD fuel pump cone intake RB FCD custom TID. Kumo escta 225/50/16 TIRES with lots of tred. how much you think I could get out of it???

75psi on all 3 faces? Weak, but not a blown seal. Did you do this WOT as well?

yes

I wouldn't quite say you lost a seal, that should still run (probably not idle very well) but it'd still run at that. I'd start checking EVERYTHING (ic hoses, intake duct, AFM, etc), see if you can't find anything wrong at all to get it started and running, then I'd try to steam that thing or some other way of getting carbon out and see if you can't get anymore out of that rear.

75 on each face? Noit horrid, should run, like sonic rat said, check for vacume leaks, check everything! I had a cracked hard line on my rats nest that did this.

yeah it push starts and runs goes through the warm up then when it trys to idel it stalls and wont start again.

sounds like a vac leak to me or similar.

I didnt think the fuel filter would change anything and it didnt, the AFM checked out good all the resistances are as they say in the factory service manual.

just an idea could maybe the engine not be getting enough fuel, like maybe a bad injector or fuel pump??? cause if I push start it it stays running through the warm up but dies when it trys and idel??? just a thought

flooding??

but would flooding cause the ehgine to stall??? I thought it would just make it run rich or higher RPM, what would cause sudden flooding???

later today im gonna take the upper intake manifol off and replace all vac lines and remove some emissions and rats nest and see if theres a vac leak somewheres.

Have you even checked for vacuum leaks yet?

Iv checked all i can see and get to all the IC and intake connections.

i dont know if it would cause a sudden stall, but the push starts and hot start probs kinda sounds like flooding. Have you sprayed your Intake mani with any brake cleaner or anything to find a vacuum leak?

no, I have a gasket so I figured Id just take it off replace the vac lines under it and then put it back on and see what happens.

Pull the filter box out/etc, and stick your hand in the AFM and hold the flapper open while someone tries to crank the car and see if it starts.

Its prolly the fuel Pump. same thing happend to me, When the car sits for a bit the thing started agian, but after driving it stalled agian,(was the fuel pump) the fuel pump starts freaeazing up after its been working for a bit!
If you can hear the fuel pump from the inside of the car. ITs BAD

try this.. SIMPLE! have a friend take a stick or a hammer, put it up to your ear. either from under the car. or open the fuel pump trap door put it up to the pump. you start the car, and see if the Pump stalls at the same time as the motor!

well I can smell gas and I know gas is getting into the engine cause when did comression test forgot to take out the fuese and flames came out of the rotors.

The car wont start inless i push start it then it doesnt idel it will die if i take my foot off the gas.

how old are your spark plugs? i mean if you can see gas coming out of the rotors its flooding. OR ya dont have a spark. but you said it died on the freeway! so that cant be just flooding that did that! you might have two diffrent problems. the stalling could be that the fuel pump or Filter is bad, or leading or trailing isnt firing, But Now sounds like you have a flooding problem, Do you have a fuel pump kill switch? if you do turn it off and crank it too see if it catches!

sonicrat: I pulled the filter off and held the flapper open and it was the same nothing new.

Adam: I replace the sparkplugs sat cause I thought that might be the problem, and Im getting spark, I acctually shocked myself checking lol. I dont have a kill switch. I have a FD fuel pump that I havnt put in yet, should I maybe try that?

could flooding cause the car to stall, like if an injector is stuck open or FPR or something like be dumping more fuel then needed at idel causing it to stall??? its just an idea doest sound quite right to me but i dunno.

gets my seal of reinforcement. Sounds just like a vac leak.

Im gonna take off the upper intake manifold and replace all the hoses and remove the vac rac and block off the EGR,ACV and air pump stuff, maybe send the injectors to be cleaned.
after that I dont know where to go ill have to tow it to a shop I guess.

First thing I'd do is take out the plugs, and either replace them with known good ones, or new ones. I'd probably inject a little atf or motor oil at the same time, to help restart it. IF it doesnt start, then check each of your 4 wires for spark. Next, go back and check the fuelpump for voltage...the 2 fat wires on the 4 wire plug are the power. Next, disconnect the fuel line at the engine (front one) and crank the car...see if fuel comes out. This tells you if the pump is delivering or not. IF you have fuel delivery but it still won't start, check your air intake path from the airflow meter all the way to the throttlebody...all hoses should be connected and tight, including the TID to afm, TID to turbo, BOV to TID, BOV to IC pipe, IC joints to IC, IC joint to TB, 2 smaller hoses on the back of the IC, and smaller hose from the BAC to IC pipe. Also, be sure your AFM is plugged in securely, and perhaps try some contact cleaner on the plug and prongs. IF you still get no start, verify that fuel is actually being injected by removing the UIM, unbolting the lower fuel rail with injectors and plugs still intact, wiring the injectors securely to the rail, disabling both coil packs by unplugging them, and having someone crank the engine for you, while observing the fuel output of the primaries...should fire opposing each other in a nice high volume conical pattern (fuel should spray audibly, and shoot for a good foot or 2 from the injector, so be careful).

Ok there is a white with red stripe with, a white with green strip wire, a blue wire and a black wire. the white with red stripe one is the only on e with constint power 12v . the white with green stripe jumped around betweet 2 and 0 and the other two were nothing. not sure if that tells you any thing

I pulled the fuel line off when you turn the key on no gas comes out when I crank it gas comes out this means i have fuel delivery.

Listen to instruction. There are 4 wires on that plug. 2 are fat, 2 are skinny. The 2 fat ones are your power supply, power and ground. IF you have 9-12v there when cranking, you're okay.

Follow all the rest of my tests listed in that post in that order.

OK, I tested the pump like you said checked out good, Iv checked the intake and vac lines over and ove and over the past couple days, I checked them again all good, I took the UIM and TB off took out the bottom (primary?) rail and injectors, Both top and bottom fuel injector plugs are dry rotted and are falling apart dont have the metal retaining clip any onre broken off, only one of the injectors sprayed, I took the plug off the one that wasnt working and the prongs pushed into the plug so they wernt making A conection i pushed them back in and electrical taped the wires so they wouldnt move pluged it in and they both sprayed like they should with good volume......could one of the injector plugs came disconected so only one was spraying causeing lack of fuel causing it not to start??? how can i replace the plugs???

Sounds like a vacuum leak or a dead AFM, MAF, or whatever you guys call it.

Get it running (have someone hold on the gas) and play with the meter by hand.

You can get replacement injector plugs on ebay, or sometimes at autozone...see my website tech section for injector info, there is a part number listed there that used to be available at autozone. You'd come down a few inches from the plug, cut, and use wire connectors and/or solder to reconnect your new plugs (which usually have 6" or so worth of wire on them). Loose connections at injector plugs can cause intermittent or no fuel delivery to one or both rotors.

Sounds like you're on the right track now.

I ordered them from mazda tech, a guy near me, i should get them tom, is there anything else I should do or check befor putting it all back togther???

also is push starting an affective way of unflooding or should I do the ATF trick, and how do I do it???

Perhaps do a vacuum hose replacement job in the meantime (if you have emissions shit still), and either replace the injector lower grommets or use a little bit of sealant on the lower edge of them to prevent a vacuum leak there. And, check/rig/replace your pulsation dampner while in there, if you dont want the thing burning to the ground.

I have the emitions stuf but i bought block off plates and am removing all but the bac the pulsation damper looks ok but im not quite sure what i should be looking for with it.

If the screw is loose or fallen out, it's ready to fail. You can rig the screw back in place with loctite on the threads then RTV on the outside then put the cap back in place, which will slow down the failure and leakage, if any exists or would happen soon. Or, you can get a new one. Or, you can replace with a banjo bolt. www.rotaryresurrection.com ---> tech ---> 86-88 PD replacement