Car Smoking, Need a bit of help Asap.
 

So here's the story. I start my car up to go to the post office this morning, and it comes on fine, no problem. About 30 seconds in, I smell smoke and i look out my door and i see a bit of smoke coming from my exhaust. I open the hood, and add about 5 quarts of oil (FUUUUUUUUUUUCK) Whats the oil capacity..?

Anyway, I continue driving slowly and cautiously, the car continues to smoke a little bit, and it eventually stops, but then smokes un-intermittently.

This started today. Last night it didnt smoke, and I know cause I was watching a suspicious car in my rear view and would have noticed.

Is this much smoking normal..? Cause it hasnt been normal lately.. And when I got home it stopped.

Ideas? Thoughts? Need more info? Oil is 10W30. Oil Filter?

This is my DD, so i'm screwed if i need to change my seals...

Video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CUiS_slxvCM

I need new mufflers. I know.

u added 5 quarts of oil ?

Thats a failed.

and u took this video when the car is cold or after its been warm up ?

I saw a bit of black/blue ish smoke, so thats oil seal.

and from your question ... I can tell you almost never keep the required maintenance up to date. so thats another another failed.

The oil control rings are dying. If you seriously added FIVE quarts of oil, it was either empty and destroying itself, or you just overfilled the pan. The total capacity is roughly 5 quarts. Did you even check the dipstick to see where the oil level was before dumping a ton in?

Yes. I know. Yeah, it was driving 10 minutes, and it also did it alot more upon cold startup. I've only had the car for about 2,000 miles, and i've changed the oil twice, as well as the oil filter.

Not particularly =(

I just started it up to check (been sitting for 5 hours) Instant smoke. I can tell its blue, very much so =(

Damage is new oil seals? It is rather convincing, no matter how pissed I may be. I might as well rebuild it i guess.

Not checking the oil before filling it up is fail. The smoke on initial startup is fairly common with engine that have some wear. On the video how many RPM's did you hit between the 38 and 41 second marks? 140k+ engines like to smoke above 5k from worn out oil rings. It normal for a rotary to consume a qt every thousand or so miles, even more so with the mechanical MOP which injects oil strictly on throttle position and not engine load.

What you NEED to do is catch up on maintenance for that car and record your oil consumption and see just how over the norm your engine is. It seems like its only burning oil at high rpms(normal) so if you dont beat the dog shit out of it the engine should go a while.

Hi peoples.
I have a similar problem. My car is a 1987 Turbo II, 1,300 milles. strat fine cold and warm, It does not do smoke running, but when boost and low revolutions smoke white and sometimes gray, Has good compression for his millage. The original turbine needed repatión, and thinking about it I did upgrade, I installed a 1991 Turbo II turbine with a turbonetic compressor, completely reconstructed and Gredy Blowoff, run very fine with 5 pounds of boost. but it continues the smoke when he low revolutions, sometimes, overflow like the great majority of the third generation, now start with a small failure cold until it reaches its normal temperature. I don´t know notwthat to do more because because I have replaced and eliminated several thinks, I think that the problem is internal and the engine need repair. Somebody can help me in my smoke situation? Please

About maybe between 5.5k and 6k. My car has 106k on the odometer.

And I really plan on having a place to maintain the car in the next month or so, till then, baby is the word.

It only really smokes alot on startup now, the amount of smoke changes, and not due to how long its been sitting. It clears about 30 seconds, once it gets warmed up I guess.

I guess it just calls for a rebuild.

You really shouldnt be revving that much on a cold engine....

At the time of revving the engine had been off for 5 minutes after being driven for 10.

If burning oil is the only issue I wouldnt worry about a rebuild as long as it isnt constantly giving off a smoke screen at cruise. Put the money towards maintenance and other necessary items. Just be sure to keep the oil level topped off and a water treatment every now and then to get the excess carbon off the rotors.

You should be using 20-W50... That might help you a tiny bit too. The thinner oil may leak past seals quicker. It won't fix your problem though.

As for filters, fuck fram. I've found that the best cost/filtration is Wix. Or Napa gold. Same thing.

Fram is terrible! Wix, Mobil 1, Genuine Mazda ftw. You get what you pay for... As for the oil problem, you really need to take your oil level more seriously. Check it very often, considering how much she smokes. Oil type doesn't matter so much because the engine is obviously going to drink it anyway. Also, never rev a rotary that isn't warm. That's how I blew mine.

My radiator is leaking at the top so I add water/antifreeze every week or so. I drained it when i first got the car and used some of that radiator flushing shit. I'll pick up a bit of water treatment when I get more oil at the store.

I've heared some shit about fram, as for oil, thanks.

Checking oil every day. As for revving, I never rev it except for the videos, and she was warm, temp was about 1/4+.

If you dont need any emission testing and the engine starts up fine everytime then, u might as well just leave it. at least for now.

Fram is bad, but I got 1 for free, did an oil change couple days ago and its using it now. I mean it should be fine for 500 miles. after that Im gonna swap it with Mazda filter (I have like 20 of them)

As soon as I started my car this morning after an oil change from 10W30 using 20-W50 my car wont stay on. It dips well below idle unless i have my foot on the gas. The only thing that has recently changed is the oil. From 10-W30 to 20-W50. Also, when the car dies it makes a crunching sound. Oil filter is Mobil 1 M1-104.

I drove my girlfriend a few miles to work, and nothing was wrong. Changed the oil, now it wont stay running. Changed back to 10W30 and now it dies if i turn the AC on.

Video tonight after work. (taking different vehicle D=)

It sounds like your bypass air control valve is bad or you have a vacuum leak. That is what is causing the car not to maintain idle. Could be causing the blue smoke if you have a vacuum leak.

Yes the car is now dying on startup due to the thicker oil, having more resistance on the oil-pump. Also, the A/C is adding a load which a bad BAC isn't compensating for. I suspect a vacuum leak causing your car to smoke (which happens).

Otherwise, you just have a bad BAC or vacuum leak and also toasted oil control rings (nothing wrong with that unless it smokes constantly everywhere you drive, thicker oil helps).

Hmm. I wouldn't think that thicker oil would make that much of a difference.

If your car is smoking it needs to go to rehab. :)

My car requires more money than a crack habit, maybe mine needs rehab also.

On a serious note. I ran across a thread about some different gasket treatment products that have been used as a temporary fix. I don't remember what brands were most recommended, but I'm sure a quick search you can find it. $20.00-$30.00 is worth a shot in the dark, IMO

I know, but anything lower than 500rpm makes a rattling noise and the engine shakes violently. My camera has quakeproof, so it may not seem to move very much cause of the camera auto adjusting. Hopefully you can hear the grinding i speak of.

Here we go.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1gjjW9NqtKE

I'm really confused about how this is going about. Something seems to be bogged down, maybe the oil pump. Cause every time I turn the AC on, the engine dies.

And it sounds like there is rattling coming from the throttle body/a little bit below it.

?

It doesnt die with the AC on after it warms up. This is my DD, having to borrow my dads car for work every day. Does anyone have any idea?

I've thought about pulling the oil pump off and cleaning it, idk where else to look.

As far as the ticking below the throttle body goes... i'm thinking apex seal...

Colleague says blown oil seal due to the drastic oil weight change.

throw some 2 stroke oil in the gas tank like 1/2 oz per gallon of fuel...premix and look for a vacuum leaks...