Best fix for a brass filler neck crack.
 

The title says it all guys. 89 S5 Franken N/A. I have an OE replacement brass rad, the filler neck cracked on the bottom and definitely no money right now to just buy a rad. Tried SteelStik from JB but didn't do so well. I made a mess of silicone to temp fix with intent to scrape it off, dremel the JB off and solder it up and maybe a bracket to support it. Is this a good idea?

A radiator repair shop could do it for you cheaply. Like 50 bucks or less. This is the best way to go.

Any other type of repair is going to be marginal at best.

Rob R.

you need to solder it up, like you would with house plumbing

I know rosin-core solder, but what type of iron? A torch? How hot? Do I need a brazen rod? This was somewhat of a quick post this morning after discovering the situation was back again. It drips pretty good, but it's collecting in all the crevices to get out and filling up a cloth fluid towel from the hospital. Hahah
I'm assuming it will much easier to do with it removed? Not really looking forward to draining the system.

It's really not hard to do a good job with solder but if you don't know how you will for sure have a problem .

I know I will regret this but here goes .. first off remove rad , clean with brake cleaner or equivalent around area to be soldered , now it must be cleaned with emery cloth or steel wool something of that nature until all metal is SHINY , SHINY clean , apply soldering paste to area to be soldered , heat with propane torch just at area to be soldered with light flame ( don't blast the shit out of it with heat or you will melt the surrounding solder and end up with many leaks .

Now when you do the solder job ( ACID CORE SOLDER )you melt the solder with the part to be soldered not with the torch , the torch is to heat the part to be repaired to the proper temp so the solder will JUST melt when touched to the part . if you don't have the part perfectly clean and don't use solder paste you will fail . Before applying paste when you think you have the part clean , clean it again ) if you don't the solder will just ball up and run off like water off a duck .

If you want a good job practice on something else maybe an old rad with the same metal makeup or just solder a couple of dimes together if you can do a nice smooth job on a couple of dimes setting on each other off set you might succeed . when soldering it is easiest if you can keep the part flat to give the solder less chance to run away . if the solder is a little rough looking after the job is done just pass a small flame over it a few times and you should see the solder LAY down a bit . You might need to back up the part with a little heat when soldering but do not direct it on the repair area . If the metal turns blue it is to hot and also fucks the metal .

If you practice a bit and do things the way I have outlined you should have reasonable success . remember don't try melt the solder with the flame IT WON"T WORK , and USE SOLDER PASTE ( the paste when heated turns to a liquid acid and finishes cleaning the part ) also the solder will likely only stick where the paste is applied .

Practice first take your time and learn something that few average people do proper when you get to the point where you can do a nice job on the dimes you are ready to move on . clean and solder paste are the key words here .. :icon16: good luck .


DO NOT TRY BRAZING ROD !!! Also Rosin core solder will work but is intended for different applications acid core will help clean what you miss .

This is the kind of help I like to get from here. Informative, cautious, but well-presented. I don't have much experience with this bt I don't think I'll have much problem after some practice. Would it also be practical to find some brass sheet and make up some brackets for the filler neck?
Thanks a million you guys. I'm off today and might be able to get it done.

If you want to make some kind of support bracket I would consider making a nice reasonably small and cosmetically pleasing bracket to attach somewhere for the hose to lay in ( a saddle so to speak )to keep the hose from vibrating rather than trying to make the neck stronger . Me thinks the neck cracked from movement of the hose more than the neck being to weak . Maybe the hose is not the correct one and is pulling on the neck and cracking it . stand back and have a good look at things maybe you will find some rad mounts that are broken or what ever , Make sure your rad is mounted proper as to the fsm don't know if they have rubber mounts or not . You might also check you engine mounts and make sure the engine does not twist to much and putting pressure on the hose or maybe the dam thing just cracked if it's a replacement rad things might not be in the proper place . .:icon16:

take some pics or better yet a short movie and post of your practice stuff and the rad I am curious to see how you do .

I reckon I can link to a youtube post for a video? I will have to be very clean, as I have stated, I made a mess trying to temp fix, so I'll be using a dremel to clean most of that. Grinding stones, etc.
Here's the thing about the filler neck. I think I bent the neck by accident in working on my alt belt and pulley, removing the intake, fan and clutch, etc. It didn't have supports on the neck originally, and it mounted flat onto the core. I will be able to elaborate with pictures and video. I'm using my phone so I'll have to figure out how to post pictures from here.

get a new radiator or have it repaired professionally with a pressure test

this is something you cannot skimp on

I don't have the money for that. 25 is different than a bill for labour.

than you wont you wont have money for a rebuild either

why dont you at least stop by a radiator shop and ask them what they would charge

That's what I'm saying. 75xx miles on my current rebuild. They want 185 for just a bead of solder around the filler neck. And the guy said that brass is the same as copper and that he was going to use a brazen rod. He also said his reasonin for them being the same is they go for the same price at the scrap yard. Similar maybe. The same including technique, definitely not.
I can spare $25 but not 185 right now. For an extra 40, I could buy a new rad.

$185 to repair one thing sounds crazy

Thus my decision to repair it myself. It really wasn't a hard job at all. I never blued the metal or even discoloured it. I didn't have a problem with the rad laying flat with back side up to get a nice solid but smooth and consistent bead with the solder. Used acid core solder, propane torch, and brown paste flux. Going for reassembly right now. Gotta drive her in the morning! ;)

good to hear things went well , but no cookie until we see pics

Unfortunately I didn't get pictures of the before, but I think I have some of the uncleaned brass next to clean [ground down]. But here is a shot of it before I painted with 550F engine paint.
<a href="http://s1001.photobucket.com/user/NativeBeggars/media/FinishedBrassRepair_zps1610b016.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1001.photobucket.com/albums/af131/NativeBeggars/FinishedBrassRepair_zps1610b016.jpg" border="0" alt="Fixed brass radiator repair photo FinishedBrassRepair_zps1610b016.jpg"/></a>

Also side note - if you go through that album, all those parts are for sale and feel free to shoot me a pm concerning anything you see! S4 NA and 74-76 4-port NA. Aviation Division housings.

EDIT: How about that?

he no workie for me

Look now. That picture is after I finished it all up. Looks factory after paint.

drive by the radiator shop and show the guy the repair and ask why he wanted to charge $185 and ask him if you should ever refer anyone to them.

gotta love scammers preying on the less knowledgeable.. 10 cent/5 minute fix.

That is a nice job , notice how the solder mostly only went where you put the paste .. That's a long fitting . Now I see why you wanted to build something for it . big cookie . :icon_tup: I love to see people fix there own stuff instead of running to the friggin store all the time but me thinks you did that before .

well done!

BTW, for those that read this thread looking at a similar problem...

Rockauto has all metal replacement radiators for 2nd gens for about $125.00.

Rob R.

Definitely first shot, but it's good to know I did a primo job on it. Thanks guys! I'm the one that definitely doesn't need it to fail. Hahah.
Next step is finding some brass sheet and something to cut it with to make brackets out of. I'm still tight quarters in my bay so I will have to play with the positioning and how much space it takes up. Definitely going by the rad shop tomorrow.

I guess this just shows how little I know about the rotary but what is the difference between the 13b aviation housings and ordinary 13b housings ?

not much by the look of them, they appear to be '74 spec 13B housings which both have the coolant passages open.

They are designed to work with older irons. Tgere is somethin interesting with the exhaust passages too. After some cleaning with purple power [<3] mostly everything shines, unless it has a film of carbon. If it has carbon I left it in place as I live right on a beach and don't need things rusting away in the wind on me. If you guys want any of those parts, shoot me a pm. They are NOT going for high prices and I'm not trying to make money on them. Some of the irons will need a good lapping and nitrating, so the prices are down low.