Hey I wanted to free up space to run my intercooler piping and need to put battery to the back. Is there anything special I need to do? or Get?

I got 4 gauge wire for power n ground. big enough?
I got a battery box.
Should I just run the 4 gauge to the battery in the back or do I need to fuse it or put a circuit of some sort?

Any tips r great!

 

http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/MODS/EL/BATT/batt.htm



-Ted

 

Ted, I just read your writeup...

On my car, the stock positive battery terminal runs two wires, one of which goes directly to the pos. starter terminal, and the other goes directly to the main engine fuse. I ran 4AWG + to the starter, and then a 'shorter' jumper from the starter pos. to the main fuse, with the batt. grounded at chassis - where'd you get the alternator wire, etc? And why two circuit breakers? One should be enough, AFAIK.

(ground) <- [(-)battery(+)] -> (+ starter) -> (+main fuse)

Brandon

 

and from the main fuse it goes to the alternator.

I never thought about using 2 but that would be better. if your POS battery wire shorted somewhere along the car. the point of the battery fuse is to stop the short cirut and 500amps going along that wire and melting it causing a fire. but I guess the same would happen with the alternator with the car running. you'd still have a short circut on the alternator side if the relocation wire grounded itself. but you'd probably only get 50 or so amps outa that side grounded (max alternator output). so the wire probably wouldn't even melt.

 

I think this is the same for all FC's?&nbsp My pic shows two wires off the old + battery terminal, and both are connected to the same "stud" on the circuit breaker.

I'm a bit paranoid about electrical system from my car audio background.&nbsp I've seen too many electrical fires, so I'm a bit paranoid about short circuit protection.&nbsp I design all my electrical system to be "bulletproof".&nbsp If the text isn't obvious, let me run down a possible scenario...&nbsp You've got a long run of wire from the engine bay to the battery in the back.&nbsp You have one fuse/CB.&nbsp What if the short is between the alternator and the fuse/CB?&nbsp The battery would be protected, but you'd probably kill the alternator.&nbsp What if the short is between the battery and the fuse/CB?&nbsp This is the dangerous one, as a short of the battery can potential cause the battery to explode.&nbsp How do we protect both?&nbsp Run two sets of short protection, thus I use two fuse/CB's in my installs.&nbsp You have two "power sources" (alternator and battery) - you should protect BOTH of them.


-Ted

 

So how much would your method cost in materials? Mariah has a set up, but $188 is WAY to rich for my blood.

 

Moroso 2AWG wire from Jegs - $50
Battery box from local auto parts store - $20
CB's and Phoenix Gold parts from Parts Express - $100 (this can easily be changed)
Miscellaneous mounting hardware - $20

The prices are similar versus the Mariah price, but this is about as bulletproof of a relocation kit that you can get.&nbsp There ARE more expensive (read:&nbsp better built) battery boxes available, but I'm not currently racing my car, so the ~$12 plastic "marine" battery box works fine for my application right now.

If you can find generic CB's/fuses's and crimp connectors, it'll be a LOT cheaper than $100 - more like half of that, $50.


-Ted

 

i used a taylor battery relocation kit, 100 bucks or so, came with a battery tray, tie down bolts, 2 feet of ground, something like 18 feet of power wire and all the bolts and terminals, the wire was 0/1 guage. I just wired the one wire to the existing two wires

 

ya if you cut the stock POS. battery termal off there is 2 wires there. one goes stright to the starter, and one goes to the main fuse box. then another wire goes from the fuse box to the alternator.

 

At my local track for street night with a relocated battery, you need an external kill switch, for the battery. What did you do with your stock negative terminal? I also ran dedicated wires from the battery to the alt, and starter Just ground it in the engine bay?

 

I haven't read up on this much but I was wondering if you just do this to free up space or is there other reasons as well. Please fill me in.
Charles

 

Where can I get more info on Taylor?

 

I ordered mine from Canadian Tire, but obviosly u don't have that store in Vegas, check spped shops for muscle cars, there is another place here that sells them but supposedly they are a american product for domestics, same **** different pile, a battery is a battery. maybe run a search on the net, i dunno

 

Summit's battery relocation kit is cheaper than you could buy a battery box alone for.

 

1) better weight distribution
2) make more space up front for IC and upgrade rad space (one of my primary reasons)
3) security - it's a pretty common tactic for thieves to get inside the car, pop the hood, and cut the battery/siren wires under the hood; this confuses them a little longer.
4) get the battery out of the heat of the engine bay



-Ted

 

what is the point of the kill switch? if you cut power off at the battery the car will stay running off the alternator...

or do they assume the car will stall out before they cut it?