Average coolant temps
 

What are the average temperatures that you guys see at the thermostat housing/water pump, on an average day, at idle, fully warmed up? Post your results here.

By the way, please only vote if you have an accurate measurement of coolant temperatures, such as an aftermarket gauge or an infrared thermometer.

And post your coolant mods if it's below 180 degF :)

Thanks!
-Ross

Black magic fan set to turn on at 190

Howe dual pass radiator 29"x19"x3" inlet and outlet on pass side.

Regular coolant no water wetter

Temp gauge sender is in the thermostat housing.

190-195

James

I see a range from 180 to 200. uaually on the highway its at about 195degrees. I read somewhere that the stock thermostat fully opens at 194 degreef.

My cooling system is stock, with the heater core passage disabled.

When I am closed thottle going down a hil it drops about 4-6 degrees. Kinda cool

James

It's 98 degrees outside right now. I drove fifteen miles on interstate 20 without the a/c on and the temp was 195 degrees. Drove the ffifteen miles back on the same route with the a/c on. It was b/t 195 and 200 degrees.

I've driven the same route just a few weeks ago when the temp was in the upper 80's low 90's and the temp was if I remember right, about 185. Lots of variables to deal with. I, personnaly have no problem with my car running 195 to 200 degrees. Sounds right to me. I don't like cars that run in the 160-170 range. Somethings wrong with them.

This was with a recently bought Autometer electric gauge.

And the temp of the a/c air coming out of the vent was 42 degrees. Thank you Fluke 52II

the thermostat opens at 82c, mine runs between 85-95c unless its really hot outside

mike

185 after crusing down a hill. 190-200 while driving / idling.

180-185, Fiero GT fan & 170 thermostat.

Guess I should have posted my cooling mods...

Umm well i broke the capillary tube so right now the fan is wired through a relay to be on during ignition, black magic m150 fan. I get 180 degrees, never more. Although i've had the gauge in for like three days, so I'll let you know if it rises. I'm just waiting for my replacement thermostat to come in so that I can replace the damn thing and not have it run all the time

80 degrees outside air temp this morning. Same drive as in the above post. Temps were approx 183 driving out and running about 185 coming back, except using the air conditioner coming back. A/C putting out 35 degree air this morning.

No modifications except for the turbo engine in the n/t body. Idles around 185 this morning. Closer to 190 yesterday when the outside air temp was 98 degrees.

drive to work this morning -- 175 degrees the whole way +/- 3 degrees. 60 degF ambient temperature.

I have a FMIC, Black Magic fan, and a Koyo Radiator.
My car runs right around 84 c when cruising around town.
When I get out on the freeway and start reving, it creeps up to about 92 c.
Close to 200 degrees.

1.8 times C + 32 = F for those like me who forget how to convert. Seems like we have a number of cars that read normal.

That is interesting what Finger said. He has 60 degree temps to play around in. I'll have to get back to you in December when it gets cold like that in Texas.

augh man i'd kill for that kind of wether in December up here. :(

where can i buy a thermo-gun or whatever its called? and whats a decent price on one?

okay, i just put a after market water temp guage in the lower rad hose, what temp readings should i be getting?

I have my efan set to turn on to fast, but need to know some numbers before i adjust. The guage says it goes to 150 f sometimes 160, is that about right for the lower rad hose. The stock guage is so off it isn't even funny.

Uhh you put your sender in the lower rad hose? All that will do is tell you the temperature after the rad cools the water down.

My question is ... umm... why? heh...

And yes, the stock gauge is CRAP.

It shows like 2/3 of the way up when the car isnt even fully warmed up, and the real temp gauge shows like 170

actually fingers, it would, should show the temp of thwe water coming out of the motor on the way to the rad. The reason it is their is so I didn't have to drill and tap the water pump.

Would the water above the thermostat be coming from the cooler rad, or do I have the direction of water floe backwards? If so, I guess it is time to go buy a tap and drill bit.

On my 88 T-II, I have a radiator with a small leak, of course with the radiator full of water, my autometer water temp gauge reads fully warmed up 160 degrees F.
It stays at 160F also when I am cruising on the highway
When i get on the car it goes up like 5 degrees more.
The leak in the radiator isnt that bad, but after a few days "like a week or 10 days" I will have to add water cause the temps are going up, I notice that the temps always go up when im in traffic barely moving of course this is already with the radiator low on water. The radiator can be low on water, however on the highway cruising like around 60-80 MPH it doesent over heat for nothing, obviously because the car is moving, and the air is hitting the radiator. When I had the A/C working the temps would only go up like 5 degrees from 160 degrees just cruising the car in the city, and also getting the same temps on the highway, not bad for a T-II with a leaking radiator. By the way the stock water temp gauge is working perfectly fine reading very cool temps,
along with the Auto Meter gauge. I find it kind of funny that people complain about the stock water temp gauge,
because comparing the stock water temp reading to the autometer gauge is about the same. For example when the water temp gauge is marking 1/2 way, the Autometer gauge marks at 185-190 F, if I remember correctly. In ot her words when I see that the stock water temp gauge starts rising the Autometer gauge rises in temp according to the stock water temp gauge.
I highly recommend that every owner of a Rotary Engine get a aftermarket water temp gauge to monitor there water temps, as this is very crucial to the life of your engine. I also recommend a after market oil pressure gauge as well.

The upper hose is from the engine to the radiator.The bottom hose flows from the radiator to the engine.

Most of the time my car seems to be at approx.185 to 190 at idle and runs around 195 during normal driving.About 210 is the hottest I've seen it but that only seems to be under continuos hard driving.It quickly cools down once I start driving normal.Cooling system is stock with the sender in the water pump housing,and using an Autometer Ultra-light electric temp gauge.Electric fan set to come on at 180.Also noticed that the autometer gauge can move from 180 to 200 and the stock gauge will never move.

holy shit, I am a retard. That is the last time I listen to my Dad. I was going to put it in the upper and he said, why do u want the temp of the rad, put it in the lower.

Fuck beans, Now I need a new hose. Oh well, not that big of deal i guess. It was a good thing i gues to set the fan low, I need to do some work. Thanks Dak, and Fingers

*****where can i buy a thermo-gun or whatever its called? and whats a decent price on one?*****


http://www.tequipment.net/Fluke80T-IR_E.html Stuff cost money. This is pretty cheap if you already have a meter that meets the requirements specified in the url.

Or one of these: http://www.tequipment.net/FlukeDigitalThermometers.html

And in ref to one of the posts above: I have a 86 and two 88's. All the water gauges read in the first quarter of the gauge. If they go over a quarter reading of the gauge, then things are boiling hot. 195 degrees will make my needle go approx three needle widths up from the low hash mark. I understand that the temp sensor changed somewhere after 1987 and maybe the gauge itself. If I ever see a gauge at the halfway mark......I'm pulling over and turning the engine off. Just personal experience. I've never driven a newer car than 1987. I wonder how many other cars of the 1986-1987 vintage read like mine????

Or this: http://www.tequipment.net/Fluke80TK.html if you already have a meter that meets the requirements.

any ideas on this my car jumps from like 1/4 on the stock gauge to like 1/2 if i turn on the ac any ideas why

If the cars run below 180, there is something wrong.
All shrouds should be in place for proper cooling.
With front mount, 3 core radiator, all areas blocked off and ising electric fan, I run about 200 (70mph) and city driving about 190. Electric fans suck but you gotta use them if you have to. Nothing beats stock fan.

Usually runs 80-82 deg C with up to 85 if I'm getting into it. Here's a datalog graph of a drive to work.

Stock setup with K&N and downpipe.

Henrik
87TII

Top Hose: 185
Bottom Hose: 124

Temps taken with IR Pyrometer after several hard Auto-x runs

Air Temp: 100

Mazdacomp Radiator
Spal 16" fan w/ full custom shroud
180 thermostat

Alright so highest I've seen is about 200 degrees on a really hot day.

Anytime :) come back and tell us what your temps are once the sender is in the proper spot.

180-190 at idle. Sometimes it will peak a little over 200 after a hot day and some WOT.

My cruise on the 401 to Ottawa last weekend saw the temp steady at 175F.

Fan's set at 190F. Kicks in all the time traffic but never on an expressway.

2 bottles Water Wetter, 70/30 water/coolant mix.

Expressway temps drop as low as 160F in the middle of winter...

I have 2 water temperature sensors. One near the thermostat housing for my gauge, the other at the block below the oil pedestal for my EMS.

EMS readings:

180-185F (82-85C) during normal cruising.
195F (91C) max under boost street driving.

225F (105C) max for hard lapping on a road course.

There's too many variables if you ask me. Here in Tx this month the temps are 100 degrees plus or minus five degrees. I just went for a ride of about 30 miles on Interstate 20 doing a steady 70mph. If the air conditioner is off, it runs at 195 degrees. If the air is ON, the temp reads approx 200 and a touch.

WE had a cold spell last week. The temps got in the upper 80's to low 90's. The cars temps were around 180 to 185. I'd say in Canada the air temp are probably in the upper 80's so I'd expect to see approx 180 or so at 70mph. Too many variables. Gotta be talking the same road speed and same air temps if you ask me.

Just came home doing a fair amount of freeway and street driving. Temperature stayed constant between 176-179F the whole time. Air just hits my oil cooler and then straight to the Koyo.

180 or lower

So....here we are three months later. The outside air temps are in the forty to fifty degree range now and the water temps are in the 170 to 180 range no matter how hard the car is pushed. Its a virtual stock radiator on a turbo car.

So like I said in my post above........there's too many variables (read outside air temps). The Mazda thermostat has a range b/t about 162 when it starts to open to being full open at around 190 something degrees. See the FSM for the exact figures.

Hailers so let me ask you, ho wcold do you want your car running man ? I mean on my 88 Turbo 2, im running 160 degress, and it seams like the car is running fine, even though the motor is low on compression, but it runs cool, yes when the car is pushed goes up a little in temperature. Ok stupid question, so after reading the previous posts im assuming the correct way is to install the probe in the upper radiator hose ? Or do I have to make a TAP, and install the sensor there ? Know I would like to know exactly "What is the correct way to install it, to get accurate readings ?

I used to have a very hot running engine...living in the Palm Springs area (115+ degree summers) it got to be a problem. Before my last engine let go I bought a Koyo radiator, along with the belly shroud, stock fan with new fan clutch, Mazda thermostat, and I removed the A/C completely. My old engine ran cool after that but the water seals let go and I swapped it with a Mazda reman. Now, in 110 degree heat, the car can be boosted with temperatures never climbing above 185, even uphill under constant load. Light load puts the temps at 180 give or take a degree.

Now that its cold out, I get two readings. My Haltech reads 180 at the water pump housing, my Autometer & infrared pyrometer read 170 at the heater hose outlet.

Stock radiator
J.C. Whitney electric fan
NO undertray
Gutted thermostat
SPI electronic water temp gauge
SPI sensor mounted opposite of stock water thermo sensor

If ambients are reasonable (70F - 90F), the car normally runs between 170F - 190F.

Ambients over 100F will cause elevated water temps at 190F - 220F.

Ambients that are cooler (50F - 60F) will cause lower water temps at 160F - 180F.

Running under boost will cause temps to rise after 10 seconds +.

Stop and go traffic will cause water temps to rise. Having the fan on will stabilize the water temp to about 180F - 190F.

This set-up will change soon. :)


-Ted

Fc Road Race car with a huge Griffin, Custom AST, Cantilevered hood, a large(24x2.5) vent cut in the front bumper where the moulding ought to be, and twin stock oil coolers. Water measured at the T'Stat. Oil measured at the filter.
HWY cruise ~170-180
road race(1/2hour session)~190-200
Oil(hwy) ~160
Oil (Road race)~200
This is w/~325rwhp
The upper limits are road racing in ambient temps of 80 and above. On a cold day the oil temps while cruising hover around 155-160, and water around 175.

yeah, my 20b runs cooler on a hot day

Mine seems to stick at about 165 no matter what (165 is the thermostat I have installed)

Koyo rad, new water pump, water wetter and 30/60/10 mix coolant/water/water wetter.


Cooling is never an issue.


-Robert

Uh, on a stock FC rad???


-Ted

K2RD rad, IIRC.

how high does the temp get when you over heating?

I would like to know what is considered overheating ?
What kind of temperature is considered overheating ?
In other words, how hot before I would turn off the car so it doesent do engine damage ?

Not quite exact info....
 

...but gives some insight into temperatures:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=212134

I bought a KOYO radiator last week on a whim. Prior to the install the water temp at 70mph, A/C on, was aprox 185 observed over several days. After the install the same temps, same conditions, same road at 70mph, the temps are approx 165-170. A guesstimate is that its running a good 15degrees cooler. By the way, that makes me wonder about the Mazda thermostat in the car. Wouldn't you?

I don't consider the temp too hot til it reads close to the 200 degree mark steadily. Then it's time to think there might be something amiss. I was seeing those temps last August Sept with the A/C on. I expect to see something less this year.

By the way, modern cars are made to run (on purpose) with 200 degree temps from what I've seen using a Actron SuperAutoScanner on a Windstar and a Expedition.

s5 GXL TII conversion: mine sits at around 187.5 deg F on around 70F outside, sunny, engine idleing around 2k.