Anyone Tried Waterless/0 PSI Coolant (Evans)?
 

Anybody ever run the EVANS Waterless/0 psi coolant in their 7? It would eliminate the possiblity of blowing a coolant seal since there is no psi in the system.

http://www.evanscooling.com/index2.html

I like what I read. Would we just use a simple radiator cap without the pressure valve? I may switch to this since my rebuilt motor that someone else did, use to leak coolent into the oil, its not doing it any more for some reason, but I would feel safer with this stuff. Unless its the pressure that has some how stopped the coolant getting into the oil by doing something :)

I'm planning to switch very very soon, when my turbo swap gets wrapped up. Even gonna run it in a W2A system.

J

That thing wouldn't protect your coolant seals, it is heat and not pressure that is damaging. Also, once your housing are warped or your seals damaged the cooling system WILL become pressurized from the gases escaping the engine.

Wow, that was a old thread....thanks for the link...anyone else please refer to the link juiceh provided.

wow, is it worth it? hmmmmmmmmm.............How many have already tried it? sound awesome.

chris

I'm on NPG+ for nearly two summers with fine results on my s5 N/A vert.

It won't fix cooling problems. If you have problems, fix them first. Don't spend the money till you know the cooling system works correctly.

It will stop after boil problems.

It will stop problem of the coolant failing to return properly to the radiator after the car cools down.

I am in dallas tx. First week I used it was 104*. I had a day when I made 25 or so stops in that heat, running full A/C. The car didn't miss a beat.

You make the zero pressure cap by removing the little vaccum break valve in the middle. Dremmel works great for this. I used a stant cap so that I still have my Mazda oem cap in reserve. You still use the overflow tank, but now it becomes merely an expansion tank. If you squeeze the radiator hose, coolant flowes readily from the radiator into the tank, then sucks back into the radiator. You can even take the radiator cap off when the car is fully warm and running, but really there is no reason to to this except to show off.

Make sure you get all the water coolant out and then hot purge the Evans coolant after adding it to the radiator. If you don't correctly do this, results will be very screwy.

Watch out for flammability. We had a car catch fire do a leak in the cooling system and then the pressurized coolant squeezed through the pinhole leak and it was like a fuel injector atomizing. Double check on that, the early stuff was very flammable, I think the newer formula isn't. Worth looking into...

I know it has been 5-6 years since this thread was started...but I wanted to know if the Evans coolant is still a viable solution.

-Since some of you guys have been using this coolant for a while what are your test results?

-Did any of you guys do a rebuild and notice anything significant with the coolant jackets on the housings?

It is a waterless coolants that lasts the life of the engine. This coolant was also told to eliminates water-causing corrosion, electrolysis and cavitation that water/steam causes. Jay Leno said he was using it for at least 16years and the coolant did not gum up/corrode any metals in any of his vehicles (EX: Duesengberg, Bugatti with aluminum block).

Waterless Engine Coolant | Video | Jay Lenos Garage | NBC

The only problem is the price + if you radiator sprung a leak or any other part of the vehicle sprung a leak as well, it would cost $$$ to refill.

I want to run this Evans Coolant in my rx7 but I need to flush out the old coolant (50/50 water) and put in this Evans coolant. How would I go about completely draining the coolant and drying it out without removing the engine from the engine compartment? Any Ideas?

Also how much coolant is needed for the rx7? 2gal-3gal?


Thanks,


Matt K.

false, i did a conversion on a customer car that ate a coolant seal about a year after the conversion. and that shit is toxic nasty smelling when it burns...

coolant seals(simple high temp rubber o-rings) are generally already compromised by age, not the same issues you see with metallic head gaskets in piston engines which do not erode with age. you can put a head gasket on a shelf for 25 years, install it and have no ill effects. you cannot set a rubber o-ring on a shelf for 25 years, install it and hope it works even the first time you try to crank the engine. this is one problem with new old stock engine gasket sets we have.

if the engine is fresh it will prevent corrosion caused failures but the coolant seals will always have a shelf life regardless of the coolant in the engine.

you will need approximately 3 gallons, the OE system holds 2 gallons and the third is a spare for the possible coolant leaks, as you can't run to the store and buy more.

i've expressed my skepticism about this in a controversial thread (3rd gen section). https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...oolant-945513/

Basically, any way you slice it water is a better heat exchanger than some expensive and proprietary blend of propylene glycol and some non-aqueous additives. In fact, SAE documents specifically warn against undiluted coolant.

not to mention it's a rip off. $50 a gallon? eat a dick. that bad water pump just cost another $50.

Still using this in my 90 vert. :dunno:

the largest drawback for most people is availability and cost. a properly maintained cooling system will not corrode, overheat or boil over on hot days. big benefit of evans is no ruptured hoses, but mazda hoses are exceptional quality.

i just had to comment after reading the first post, because it will NOT save your motor.

You drain the radiator. You drain the block with the drain on the driver side. Remove and drain the radiator overflow tank. Re-install the overflow tank. Add ONE gallon of Prestone Low-Tox Antifreeze at full strength. Start the car and idle till the thermostat opens, letting the Low-Tox circulate through the entire cooling system. Turn the car off, let it completely cool. Drain the radiator, drain the block. Catch that low tox and save it back in the jug. Add the Evans Coolant NPG+. Run the car and warm it up to eliminate air bubbles. Add NPG+ to the overflow tank.

Remove the rubber seal under the little poppet valve in the radiator cap. Leave the upper seal on the cap. Now you have a zero pressure cooling system.

Save that Low Tox for replacement or emergency top off of the Evans coolant. It is compatible chemically.

+1 eat 2 dicks. This stuff sounds cool, but that price is absurd. I'm not spending $150$ for an alternative coolant. If it were cheaper, then I might consider it. Right now, I won't even blink at it.