Anyone crammed 6 1/2 components irnto s4 doors?
02-28-05, 10:15 PM
#1
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Anyone crammed 6 1/2 components irnto s4 doors?
Ok, first off lets get some things straight, If you dont like the brand im using for my stereo, and you cant seem to keep it to yourself, then leave the thread. Im looking for suggestions, not to get flamed by some uppity ******* who works at a stereo shop.
With that being said, Im trying to install some components into my door. Theyre Kenwoods, and since I work at an electronics store, I got them for a pretty damn good price. I also picked them up because they had the least depth of all of them including some Fosgates, and Alpine Type R's which I would have gotten if I got a discount on them but the price is locked for us until 2007. Now with that being said, they have some nice tweeters, which you can see in the picture I didnt really have a problem mounting.
Now the dilemma is this, the factory speakers, (I believe I have the upgraded stereo possibly) are 5 1/4s and you can see where they sit in the door. Now before this I picked up some 3-way sony 6 1/2s which fit, real tight, but they fit without trouble. Bow ive got these component woofers, which seem to be about 1/8th of an inch deeper, and theyre hitting the windows. Normally I would have just picked up some 5 1/4s but they dont carry components at my store that size, so I got the 6 1/2s. I also picked up some spacer rings, but theyre a little too large. They fit almost all the way around except where the door is formed in one place, but I could probably dremel a notch in them to get them to sit correctly. Im just wondering what the best way to go about this is. Ive got some dynomat speaker kits from when I bout the sonys. Maybe If I double up on them I could get the clearence without using the spacer rings?
Anyone have some suggestions, or pics? Please no crazy *** fiberglass fabrication or kick panel ideas though
I could also use a good way to cover the hole, Id like to get away from the 80's panythose look the original grille had.
With that being said, Im trying to install some components into my door. Theyre Kenwoods, and since I work at an electronics store, I got them for a pretty damn good price. I also picked them up because they had the least depth of all of them including some Fosgates, and Alpine Type R's which I would have gotten if I got a discount on them but the price is locked for us until 2007. Now with that being said, they have some nice tweeters, which you can see in the picture I didnt really have a problem mounting.
Now the dilemma is this, the factory speakers, (I believe I have the upgraded stereo possibly) are 5 1/4s and you can see where they sit in the door. Now before this I picked up some 3-way sony 6 1/2s which fit, real tight, but they fit without trouble. Bow ive got these component woofers, which seem to be about 1/8th of an inch deeper, and theyre hitting the windows. Normally I would have just picked up some 5 1/4s but they dont carry components at my store that size, so I got the 6 1/2s. I also picked up some spacer rings, but theyre a little too large. They fit almost all the way around except where the door is formed in one place, but I could probably dremel a notch in them to get them to sit correctly. Im just wondering what the best way to go about this is. Ive got some dynomat speaker kits from when I bout the sonys. Maybe If I double up on them I could get the clearence without using the spacer rings?
Anyone have some suggestions, or pics? Please no crazy *** fiberglass fabrication or kick panel ideas though
I could also use a good way to cover the hole, Id like to get away from the 80's panythose look the original grille had.
02-28-05, 10:30 PM
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your link doesnt work.
Anyways I fabbed a set of sheet metal door panels to mount a set of 6.5 components into GXL doors. I took out the insert and replaced it with metal, than mounted the speaker. I used the rings provided with the speakers to get the right spacing, I also dynamatted the **** out of the iside of the door, dont want that speaker to ground out.
Without looking at the pic, I would say try and notch the spacer to fit, dont pile on dynamat.
Anyways I fabbed a set of sheet metal door panels to mount a set of 6.5 components into GXL doors. I took out the insert and replaced it with metal, than mounted the speaker. I used the rings provided with the speakers to get the right spacing, I also dynamatted the **** out of the iside of the door, dont want that speaker to ground out.
Without looking at the pic, I would say try and notch the spacer to fit, dont pile on dynamat.
02-28-05, 11:55 PM
#3
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Hmmmm, I never thought about metal door panels. I bet some 1/8th in thick stuff would work great! Now where in the hell can I find that ****? I know ive looked for metal like that before at Home Depot and never seen it. I need a piece that will last, not that creap they sell that rusts 10 minutes after moisture has been in the air.
And what the hell are you talking about grounding out? The speaker is mounted metal on metal, how would it ground out?
PS, the pic works fine for me?
And what the hell are you talking about grounding out? The speaker is mounted metal on metal, how would it ground out?
PS, the pic works fine for me?
03-01-05, 12:05 AM
#4
pic no working for me either.
If you've got an S5 with the door cards that have the triangle speaker grills in them...
What I did was this, There is a black ring, not sure if it's stock, but it screws into the door and you mount the speaker in this, on the back of the door cards you cut out the stock speaker ring (raised plastic on the back of the door card) and the door card will fit over top. The next time I have my door cards off I'll take a picture. I believe the speaker rings are probably some sort of generic peices of plastic that can be purchased through crutchfield or some similar audio store. I have 6.5 clarions in there (i didn't buy them :P) then I mounted boston acoustic 3.5s in the dash and infinity kappa 6 3/4's in the shock towers with my own custom cut rings. Overall I'm extremely pleased with the sound (even tho the door card covers up most of the speaker).
If you've got an S5 with the door cards that have the triangle speaker grills in them...
What I did was this, There is a black ring, not sure if it's stock, but it screws into the door and you mount the speaker in this, on the back of the door cards you cut out the stock speaker ring (raised plastic on the back of the door card) and the door card will fit over top. The next time I have my door cards off I'll take a picture. I believe the speaker rings are probably some sort of generic peices of plastic that can be purchased through crutchfield or some similar audio store. I have 6.5 clarions in there (i didn't buy them :P) then I mounted boston acoustic 3.5s in the dash and infinity kappa 6 3/4's in the shock towers with my own custom cut rings. Overall I'm extremely pleased with the sound (even tho the door card covers up most of the speaker).
03-01-05, 12:42 AM
#7
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
You work at a stereo shop and you can't figure out what speakers go into the car???
The S4 door speakers are true 6" (160mm) speakers... not 5 1/4 speakers (130mm).
Yes, some 6 inch (160mm) speakers are called 6 1/2 inch speakers (6 1/2 inch speakers are really 170mm), but if you work at a stereo store should know better.
and grill cloth is available from any of your part suppliers (like Accell or D.Levy,) that you could use to make a grill to cover the speaker hole quite simply.
If you need to build a mounting panel alum sheet would be fine, or some 1/4 thick ABS plastic.
And BTW: for acoustical reasons you don't want the tweeter more than about 12 inchs from the mid range/woofer.
The S4 door speakers are true 6" (160mm) speakers... not 5 1/4 speakers (130mm).
Yes, some 6 inch (160mm) speakers are called 6 1/2 inch speakers (6 1/2 inch speakers are really 170mm), but if you work at a stereo store should know better.
and grill cloth is available from any of your part suppliers (like Accell or D.Levy,) that you could use to make a grill to cover the speaker hole quite simply.
If you need to build a mounting panel alum sheet would be fine, or some 1/4 thick ABS plastic.
And BTW: for acoustical reasons you don't want the tweeter more than about 12 inchs from the mid range/woofer.
Last edited by Icemark; 03-27-05 at 10:19 AM.
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03-01-05, 01:05 AM
#8
:-D.
I have been working on a drop in solution.....
Please ignore the crappy pionner 2 ways, my infinity comonents havent arrived yet. I designed these so that they can simply drop in, hold the cross over, and the tweeter. I slighly aimed the wolfer towards the seats and made the tweeter directional.
I have been working on a drop in solution.....
Please ignore the crappy pionner 2 ways, my infinity comonents havent arrived yet. I designed these so that they can simply drop in, hold the cross over, and the tweeter. I slighly aimed the wolfer towards the seats and made the tweeter directional.
03-01-05, 02:30 AM
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2 options:
reverse mount with offboard tweeters.
easy, but you lose some mid sound quality, and if your speakers arent designed for it youll look like an ***.
other option. get some MDF and cut a custom spacer/enclosure to clear the speakers. i like where you have them in the second pic, b/c you have an extra .5" of clearance behind the panel
EDIT:
DO NOT mount your crossover within 2 feet of the speaker!!! you should know this!
off topic.. i know you got a good deal on kenwoods, but.. well i can pick them up for 20$ a pair.. theyre not that good. but i guess theyre better than whatever you had before right?
reverse mount with offboard tweeters.
easy, but you lose some mid sound quality, and if your speakers arent designed for it youll look like an ***.
other option. get some MDF and cut a custom spacer/enclosure to clear the speakers. i like where you have them in the second pic, b/c you have an extra .5" of clearance behind the panel
EDIT:
DO NOT mount your crossover within 2 feet of the speaker!!! you should know this!
off topic.. i know you got a good deal on kenwoods, but.. well i can pick them up for 20$ a pair.. theyre not that good. but i guess theyre better than whatever you had before right?
Last edited by rs_1101; 03-01-05 at 02:34 AM.
. Sorry, really really long bad day.
03-02-05, 12:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Icemark
You work at a stereo shop and you can't figure out what speakers go into the car???
The S4 door speakers are true 6" speakers... not 5 1/4 speakers.
Yes, some 6 inch speakers are called 6 1/2 inch speakers, but if you work at a stereo store should know better.
and grill cloth is available from any of your part suppliers (like Accell or D.Levy,) that you could use to make a grill to cover the speaker hole quite simply.
If you need to build a mounting panel alum sheet would be fine, or some 1/4 thick ABS plastic.
And BTW: for acoustical reasons you don't want the tweeter more than about 12 inchs from the mid range/woofer.
The S4 door speakers are true 6" speakers... not 5 1/4 speakers.
Yes, some 6 inch speakers are called 6 1/2 inch speakers, but if you work at a stereo store should know better.
and grill cloth is available from any of your part suppliers (like Accell or D.Levy,) that you could use to make a grill to cover the speaker hole quite simply.
If you need to build a mounting panel alum sheet would be fine, or some 1/4 thick ABS plastic.
And BTW: for acoustical reasons you don't want the tweeter more than about 12 inchs from the mid range/woofer.
I dont wort at a stereo shop, I work at Best Buy, in the computer department I might add. Im still trying to figure out where I might get the aluminum. I never really knew the size, just basically going off what crutchfield says.
Any why would you not want to mount the crossover within two feet of the speakers? From what I can tell theres only like 18 inches of wire between the crossover and the terminated ends for the speakers.
03-02-05, 12:27 AM
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dont use aluminum. youll get bad sound. MDF is the easiest way to do it.
even using fiberglass, you need a thick wall for acoustical reasons.
mounting a crossover to close to a large magnetic source((sub or mid-bass) will cause the tweeters to chop at high volume.
even using fiberglass, you need a thick wall for acoustical reasons.
mounting a crossover to close to a large magnetic source((sub or mid-bass) will cause the tweeters to chop at high volume.
03-02-05, 12:33 AM
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Cool, Hopefully I can pick up some thinner MDF at home depot, atleast I can cut it then.
I sww what youre saying about the crossover, but what wbout my situation? Is it even good to mount the crossover in the door?
I sww what youre saying about the crossover, but what wbout my situation? Is it even good to mount the crossover in the door?
03-02-05, 02:03 AM
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you can do that.. if the speakers in the front of the door and the crossover is towards the back that should be good. speakers produce electromagnetic waves that mess with the crossovers circuit. EMI levels drop exponentially as you move away from the source though. personally id put the crossovers in the dash, itll be easier to hide, and easier to install.
03-02-05, 09:45 PM
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Ok, ive finally located some 1/4in thick MDF, and you think this is the best stuff to make a mounting panel? I havent picked it up yet, im going to tomorrow. I mean, this is the best acoustical way? Like I said too, id love to have the Alpine Type R's but the discounted price isnt available to me. I mean, I think the Kenwoods will do me fine, im not building a show stereo system or anything, and it better than what I had, which was nothing. Hopefully The weather will warm up and I can get this done.
Im still trying to figure out what I want to do about the crossover. Id rather not cut the ends, I mean, its not like any other crossover ive seen in which you hook the wires to it, it has terminated ends that go only one way to wach speaker and i'd rather not screw it up. We had some Fosgate components too, they were a little more though with dual tweeters, but I think they had a ridiculous mounting depth if I recall correctly.
Im goint to go try and make a template in the meantime.
Im still trying to figure out what I want to do about the crossover. Id rather not cut the ends, I mean, its not like any other crossover ive seen in which you hook the wires to it, it has terminated ends that go only one way to wach speaker and i'd rather not screw it up. We had some Fosgate components too, they were a little more though with dual tweeters, but I think they had a ridiculous mounting depth if I recall correctly.
Im goint to go try and make a template in the meantime.
03-02-05, 11:24 PM
#17
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
You do not want to use MDF unless you seal it completely by dunking it in Polyester (fiberglass) resin.
MDF (and other constructed woods like particle board) expand pretty quick if it gets wet.
MDF should never be used in a door application.
And then I am sorry about the stereo shop remark. I guess I am really really sensitive too mis-information on audio and stereo applications).
It is amazing the number of clueless installers out there now-a-days that just don't understand, and learned installation the way some people learn about sex (I/E on the street corners) from some idiot with old wives tales.
MDF (and other constructed woods like particle board) expand pretty quick if it gets wet.
MDF should never be used in a door application.
And then I am sorry about the stereo shop remark. I guess I am really really sensitive too mis-information on audio and stereo applications).
It is amazing the number of clueless installers out there now-a-days that just don't understand, and learned installation the way some people learn about sex (I/E on the street corners) from some idiot with old wives tales.
Last edited by Icemark; 03-02-05 at 11:32 PM.
03-02-05, 11:29 PM
#18
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Originally Posted by rs_1101
dont use aluminum. youll get bad sound. MDF is the easiest way to do it.
Alum with a proper silicon gasket will have considerably less vibration than expanded MDF (which is really just particle board).
and MDF is heavy, and has poor acoustical properties unless it is coupled to an angle (as in an enclosure)... certinlly not something that you want just to use as a spacer.
