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-   -   88 Turbo Throttle Body removal-coolant hose (https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/88-turbo-throttle-body-removal-coolant-hose-877803/)

jdonnell 12-12-09 03:45 PM

88 Turbo Throttle Body removal-coolant hose
 
Is there a trick to removing the coolant hose between the TB and engine? I think its holding me up for removing the TB. I'm not sure I even see it? Looks like a hose under there with the clamp inaccessible. Any pointers??

solareon 12-12-09 04:40 PM

no trick really. if you break apart the tb and the manifold then you and move the stuff apart and maybe get at the clamp.

Barnett87GXL 12-12-09 04:52 PM

Had the same trouble with my brothers TII. Just have to fiddle around with it. Just wait till you put it back on. We decided to change the style of clip to a screw clamp which is much easier to get at.

satch 12-12-09 05:08 PM

Look at pic #4 in the link below. Is this the hose you speak of?



https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/s5-convertible-tii-extras-swap-project-pictures-877625/

jdonnell 12-13-09 08:34 AM

That red convertible is spectacular in the picture!

But the hose in #4 is basically the same as my 90 NA. It is routed on top the engine above to the TB. The turbo, from looks of the FSM, looks like a small hose completely beneath the TB/dynamic chamber.

I was hoping there was a trick to it.

arghx 12-13-09 10:30 AM

Remove absolutely everything that holds the UIM down (nuts, throttle cable, vacuum hoses, etc). Then lift the UIM off the LIM studs completely and rotate it so that you have better access to the hose. Then you can separate the TB from the UIM.

jdonnell 12-14-09 06:01 PM

4 Attachment(s)
I got it. Cut it with an xacto knife. It cut like butter so I think it was in terrible shape (22 years old). There was also a large amount of corrosion between the hose and engine outlet tube. Here's some pics of the hose cut so anyone about to remove the TB will know where it is. Thanks for yall's help.

RotaryRocket88 12-14-09 06:15 PM

I almost always end up slicing old hoses in half, if I plan on replacing them anyway. And gear clamps do make removing them a second time much easier. Those spring loaded clips Mazda used don't always make the best seal anyhow.

On a side note...While you're in there, you can go ahead and remove that cold start assist mechanism. One less useless thing to clutter the bay.

Rick Castro 12-16-09 02:52 PM

that is the only hose that gives me trouble, i hate it. I just cut it every time I remove the UIM, which really bites, but i end up ordering extras anyway. The best part is trying to get that little sucker on.

mikeric 12-16-09 04:16 PM

Why would you keep it? Just eliminate it and have one less thing to fail/clutter your engine bay. Plus, you save .0027 lbs.

NJGreenBudd 12-16-09 04:22 PM

You keep it because it provides coolant for the thermowax unit, there is no need to remove it and it serves a good purpose when operating correctly. Unless you like to have a car than won't idle at all when cold. Don't fool yourself into thinking it's better to remove it, that's just for those who don't understand the system.

The key for this hose is to ROTATE the UIM once everything else is disconnected, you will be able to reach the clamps and remove without cutting anything.

BDC 12-16-09 04:26 PM


Originally Posted by NJGreenBudd (Post 9683545)
You keep it because it provides coolant for the thermowax unit, there is no need to remove it and it serves a good purpose when operating correctly. Unless you like to have a car than won't idle at all when cold. Don't fool yourself into thinking it's better to remove it, that's just for those who don't understand the system.

I wish I could agree with you on that one, NJGreenBudd. That line can be removed and I believe it to be a good idea. While technically you're correct about the functionality of the thermowax, not having coolant going to it will not keep the car from idling when cold. It still will albeit with a much lower idle RPM. I've removed plenty of those things off of scores of throttle bodies I've modified and the vehicles they belong to still do just fine; even stock ones like my S4 convertible that I did the same thing to. It's not a danger to remove it.


The key for this hose is to ROTATE the UIM once everything else is disconnected, you will be able to reach the clamps and remove without cutting anything.
Good advice.

B

BDC 12-16-09 04:28 PM


Originally Posted by Rick Castro (Post 9683351)
that is the only hose that gives me trouble, i hate it. I just cut it every time I remove the UIM, which really bites, but i end up ordering extras anyway. The best part is trying to get that little sucker on.

There's a few solutions to this overall problem:

- After cutting the short hose attached from the back of the engine block to the base of the throttle body, replace it with a much longer hose that will enable easier removals in the future
- Remove it entirely and plug/clamp it
- "loop" it from the back iron straight to the back of the water pump housing

Good luck.

B

Rick Castro 12-16-09 05:01 PM

I've kept everything stock. My problem is actually getting my hand in there to put on or take off this hose, there's barely enough room to work it on. Taking it off, I tried to rotate the UIM around a bit, but was nervous about setting it anywhere else on the engine, maybe if i had someone to hold it up. Just don't put it on and forget the hose clamp :P

1SWEET7 12-16-09 05:42 PM

The first time I took mine off I replaced it with a longer hose. No problems since. I have taken it back off 3 or 4 times and it is a breeze.


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