Hailers: I pulled L1 off and it sparked and the engine made a extremely brief noise like it was about to try and start. Should I test L2, T1 & 2 also?

Satch: When I put the FD fuel pump in, I reused my old filer, but it looked good with only a very small amount of stuff at the bottom. For some reason my city doesn't have RX7 spark plug or fuel filter anywhere.

I did buy brand new spark plugs. I'll put those in asap.

My car is also give an error code in beeps, 3 short beeps repeating. It was doing this before the swap (at least it was beeping, I don't remember the pattern). But I at one point had figure out it was because my speedo cable had fallen out and my speedometer had stopped working. (I had it put back in, but the clip had broken, now I'll have to glue it, lol). Is 3 beeps the CAS code?

Also, what is this that I broke?

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71.../DSCN2071B.jpg

Thats the Air Temp Sensor, the car should run without it but youre gonna need a new one.

Thats what I thought it was(or an intake air /charge temp sensor). Hope its not hard to find. Thanks SevenSlave. Lol, nice name, seems appropriate.

That sensor is the same one as is on your non turbo car.

Since it's sparking when you do what I said, then put the harness back on the CAS that's in the engine and put the spare on the shelf. You have spark so that's not the problem.

I'd disable the fuel pump by pulling it's plug off. Then spray Starter fluid into the snorkel in front of the air filter and start the car or see if it will try to start. I want the pump off so no fuel can flood the engine when you do this.

Spray for no more than three seconds and try to start. IF it start momentarily a couple of times..............the next time have some one reconnect the fuel pump once the engine starts to run on starter fluid.

Either that engine is floode heavily or the fuel lines are crossed up at the engine and your getting no fuel. Or it could be a very large air leak but you've looked for that.

Tell you what. By hand turn the front pulley til the Lead mark is opposite the fixed pin on the front cover. Then remove the two screws on your top of your CAS and remove that flat black cover. Then take a picture of the guts of the CAS. Then we'll tell you if the CAS is installed close enough to start the engine or not.

Thanks, I'll be in N.C. until Thursday evening, so until then gang!

I meant to add.........both lead plugs fire at the same time, so if you see one spark the chances are very good the other is also firing. Almost a given. As for the trail plugs......waste of time looking. Especiall if the tach needle makes small bumps as you spin the engine with the starter. Bumps indicate spark is happening with the trail plugs and most likely the lead plugs.

By "spin the engine with starter", I'm assuming you mean turn key?

That's what he means. And the fuel filter I was alluding to was the one in the engine compartment and not the "sock" in the gas tank though that is important too. And one thing on the list to check is indeed whether the fuel hoses are reversed by accident for it could something that simple and it's an easy check. You are going to get this car up and running before you are old and grey.

I too am having a similar issue as potatoe .. I am about to deep sea probe and see whats going on.. Hope too hear what your issue is soon. Big props to Hailers im all ears for that guy.

Lol Satch. Thanks man, I already got my first grey hair. At the ripe age of 25 *sigh* Haha. I thought about that fuel filter too. I wonder if its been changed since '86.... But again, doesn't make logical since to me since I drove it a few weeks ago and I smell a LOT of gas, even in the intake when I take the tmic off. Though it is just kinda dangling. I'm a little more concerned about whether or not I found the live wire that was making contact with the tmic support bracket (remember the sparking and smoke?). I also think its flooded to hell and back (though NONE of the deflodding trick have worked). Hence the fuel kill switch. The second time it started with the new engine, was when my buddy used pliers and pinched off the main fuel hose. I haven't been able to get that trick to work again (or egi fuses, or pedal to the floor).

longisland87rx7: By similar issue do you mean: it won't start and I have no idea why the not?? Have you read all 4 pages? I'd try every single thing satch, hailers and the others have suggested. Good luck :)

hey Ari I'm going to look for the BPS when I get back from my classes today. sorry about the misleading info on the pinouts. I looked back at my printouts and I told you wrong. I'll get back to you soon

I don't have it here. I am pretty sure I gave it to you but I'll keep an eye out for it. Anything I can do from my end, let me know.

Sweet thanks JR! No biggie about the pins ^_^ Thanks for fessing up, lol. Yeah, my wife thinks you gave it to me too. I'll dig around too, lol. More tomorrow now that I'm back from N.C.

Okay, reconnected my CAS, and tried to start it with no luck still. But I remembered to watch the tach. It jumped once after about 5 seconds, then that was it. Every time I try and start the car, it reeks of gas. I haven't put in my cut off switch yet, trying the find the right wire. I know RotaryRes. said it was the middle of the 5, but I want to be sure. I feel discouraged.

Look at post #6

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...+opening+relay

From the same thread:

Or you turn the key ON......engine fuse powers the positve side of one of the circuit opening relays coils..........you jumper the two socket, yellow fuel pump check connector and that feeds a ground to that same relays coil......coil pulls in and makes a circuit for the ENGINE fuse to feed the fuel pump............OR you turn the key to On.........shove the series four afm vane aft at least a 1/8".......that makes a ground circuit to the relay just mentioned and the relay closes and feeds the fuel pump power from the ENGINE fuse.

Does the flapper on your AFM move at all when trying to start?

From post #13 in same thread:
ON a USA car, the line off the fule filter goes to the front hard line on the engine and the return to the aft hardline on the engine.


Read post #10,12,13 and 16.
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=starter+relay

Post #10
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...resistor+relay

Does it turn over like it wants to crank?
We have fuel right?
We also checked for spark and thats good too.

Are we dealing with a flooded engine now?

Yeah it turns over like it wants to crank.
Yep, it's got fuel. All I can smell is fuel.
It's got spark.

I'm thinking its flooded, but non of the deflooding techniques are working. *shrugs*

More tomorrow.

Oh and yomomspimp06, I found the turbo pressure sensor! Lol, it was buried! Thanks :)

Put the turbo pressure sensor on today.
Here's the CAS on the car. Yomomspimp06 you didn't mess the CAS before you sold it to me right? Just checking.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y71...7/DSCN2077.jpg
(Front of the car is to the left in the pic, windshield is to the right)

This should help. Check post #2 """"""""Middle pic""""""""

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight=cas+teeth

Did the teeth line up properly when you tried to move the pulley into proper allignment with the fixed pin of the front cover?

Sorry satch... its a bit over my head. Sorry to noob out on you.

This is not acceptable! If I understand it then so can you. This is an order. Now that I got that off my eccentric shaft what don't you understand in the post I supplied?

Go turn your front pulley til the first mark on the pulley is opposite the fixed pin on the front cover.

Now look at my jpg attached of the CAS without the top cover. YOURS should look the same. The SAME means the two teeth on the top of the rotor in the CAS should cut across the corners of the two black pickups I show in my picture.

IF yours looks like my picute, then the timing should be well within what's required for starting the engine.

I love it when hailer comes through with the baby pictures=D