Originally Posted by Mlammert
(Post 12305387)
I've tried 2 remanufactured AFM's from A1 cardone before and both were bad. I've also heard from others that the remans for s4 TII's have been bad and I'm currently using the 30+ year old one. If you have the original AFM or know someone that has one switch them out and try.
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Hi everyone,
So i put my NA AFM and Boost sensor back on, re timed it and turned the idle resister thing to all the way lean. After holding the throttle down about half way it started. With the pedal halfway down it was about 2.6k rpm and wanted to die if i completely let off the pedal so i had to slowly easy off of it. after it started warming up it idled at about 1.2k. While i let it warm up i made sure the coolant was full and did a few little other things. gave it a few little revs (under 3k) because i dont wanna push it not running the correct sensors. turned it off then had the same problem again where it sounds like it wants to start but wont. ill post a vid of it running a little later so you can hear it and tell me if she sounds okay. |
yes i know i have an exhaust leak right off of the turbo.
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Seems ok. Do a compression test. I has hot start issues with my low compression engine before I rebuilt it. |
Yeah I need to check compression. But I'm having issues with hot and cold start.
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Originally Posted by Banzai-Racing
(Post 12304959)
Not interchangeable, they are not even wired the same way. That is why the FCDs for the S4 and S5 are different.
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so today it started no problem. me and my brother timed it to the yellow mark. i think i just need to wait for my new afm and my boost sensor now. If i shut it off i need to clear all the fuel out of it by pulling the egi fuse and cranking it then it will start right back up.
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So i got the n318 boost sensor and AFM and it starts up a lot better. still have to hold the gas down for a min until it can idle on its own. i dont think my BAC is adjusted correctly. was gonna take it for a slow drive around the block but forgot i need to do my brake booster line first. good thing i remembered hahaha
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Originally Posted by FeedBack159
(Post 12304741)
I have the low imp. Injectors.
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Originally Posted by FührerTüner
(Post 12308076)
Did you ever add resistors? Or do you have oem resistor packs?
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I had a pretty rad hot start issue when I first did my swap. Early model 87 TII engine into an 88 convertible, modified the stock N/A harness and wired in resistors for the injectors. Also rewired the alternator so the cluster lights wouldn't stay on.
My hot start issue was solved using this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...oblems-499744/ I put a switch on this wire in the glove box, so I could toggle it. Cold starts no problem (as long as the damn battery isn't dead) and then after driving around for a while I can flip the switch and crank it. Haven't gotten stranded anywhere yet. This was after I had determined that the compression was fine and I had sufficient fuel and spark. This one wire thing did the trick for me. |
Just a quick question: Did you remove the blind cap from the CAS when you timed your engine?
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Originally Posted by Rotary Alkymist
(Post 12309125)
Just a quick question: Did you remove the blind cap from the CAS when you timed your engine?
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