t2 with intake, cat-back 60mm dual exhaust, and a boost controller will run 13's easy...and last 180k miles no problem.
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Originally posted by Bob t2 with intake, cat-back 60mm dual exhaust, and a boost controller will run 13's easy...and last 180k miles no problem. |
I would start by putting on a performance air intake and 3'' midpipe, and take off the mufflers (shit sounds wicked as hell) That frees up a noticeable difference the rest everyone else has already said.
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Thanks ItsRotary7. One day I'll make it to a chassis dyno and get it setup properly but for now I have to ask questions. I'll probably stick with my Supertrapp. I just like the way it looks sticking out the rear and that I can change the disc easy if I need to move the car around the yard. Don't want to piss the neighbors off.
Thanks again. |
The sds injection system i had at the time, would tell you what the duty cycle on the injecters where. It was in real time, no data logging.:( O-well. I ended up running a small lock washer through the rear rotor, and had to sell the injection system to finance the rebuild. Then i just swaped to a 51mm webber, and called it good. CJ
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Re: Re: Re: 240rwhp N/a!!!!!!!!!!
Originally posted by jimmyv13 What's a J Port? Are monster Ports and Peripheral Ports the same? |
Originally posted by EProdRx7 My motor, 1 - port matched TB with "choke" butterflies removed. 2 - 89 intake port matched lower manifold ported and matched to block. Sixth port actuators removed and filled. 3 - Street port (Mazdatrix templates). 4 - 90 rotors stock 5 - 85 GSLSE E-shaft 6 - Exhaust ports by Rodger Mandiville 7 - Fully ballanced rotating assembly 8 - 5.5 clutch and 3.5# flywheel 9 - Mazda comp header, custom exhaust 10 - Stock FI 86-88 with modified ECU, stock sived injectors 11 - Cosmo fuel pump 12 - NGK race plugs with stock ingnition 13 - underdrive pullies 9300 rpm =199.7 hp at the rear wheels, est. 240 at the flywheel. I have the dyno sheet to prove it. Congratulations on your runoffs appearance! If you don't mind, who built your motor? Thanks, Berny H. |
So is it possible to build a 240rwhp N/A rex that's streetable?
What I'm trying to compete against here is a 92 Civic HB CRVtec that runs low 12s. DAILY DRIVER! Jay Kim |
For all those that think this can't be done are on CRACK!!!
6 years ago people said that it would be impossible to make a Front wheel drive civi run 9's ....it would be against all laws of physics. doing so, would send the world into chaos......mother's would throw away their babies, hell would freeze over and cats and dogs would make love to each other. To disprove those that don't believe, check out www.grmotorsports.com RO-SPIT. N/A and this cranks out over 200hp. i think it's actually like 225. :bigthumb: and they have a Bridgeport ...Nothing insane like a P port. although they did wind up having to use a very expensive fuel and computer system. Electromotive. But hey no one said this was cheap. so to the unbelievers..." I fart in your general direction" -some french guy- |
Originally posted by fastrotaries "I fart in your general direction" -some french guy- Anyway, I see a lot of TII and NA guys going with single exhaust. This seems counterintuitive to me, but I guess there must be proof that this is a good idea. Why not use two mufflers instead of one? I can see if you just run a straight pipe out the back with no muffler, or one huge straight through, but if you have to use a muffler, wouldn't it be better to run two than one? Ren |
Originally posted by turboren Anyway, I see a lot of TII and NA guys going with single exhaust. This seems counterintuitive to me, but I guess there must be proof that this is a good idea. Why not use two mufflers instead of one? I can see if you just run a straight pipe out the back with no muffler, or one huge straight through, but if you have to use a muffler, wouldn't it be better to run two than one? Ren Oh, and it's MUCH lighter. Brandon |
Fprep,
AWR has a very interesting header and exhaust system that kind of goes against what has been used before. they were using a very short header and a dual exhaust system. I know Tony was going to try and have these built out of mild steel and attempt to sell them at a reasonable cost. The one on the E-production car is out of stainless and would be very expensive. looks like itsrotary7 has already got his hands on part of the system. Dyno work is really the only way to find the very last bit of HP. As well as building several different exhausts and trying all the combinations. these are the reasons some of these things take so long to develope. testing and retesting is very expensive and alot of times people just get the parts they have working good and then leave it alone. they don't experiment with different pieces to try and find that extra bit power because of the cost. these HP number are not impossible, but do take alot of work and experience to obtain. these people have many hours of developement time invested to get to these numbers and as always "streetable" is a personal thing. what is considered comfortable for one person would be unbearable for another. |
Bern,
Sorry for the late reply. I was on vacation. Thanks for the compliment. Did we meet at the Runoffs? I met so many new people it's hard to remember everyone. As for the motor I built it and have done all the development myself. This is about the fourth or fifth EP motor and about 10 ITS motors before that. John |
Well, as far as the turbo is concerned. I already had a TII that produced about 250 at the wheel and ran low 14s or high 13s in 1/4.
But I started out with a turbo. I want to get back to basics and go back to N/A and learn from scratch. Turbo's are little to easy to gain power where as N/A's you kinda have to squeeze the power out of a motor. Jay Kim |
Hey Eprod, I'm interested in the motor for sale, e-mail mehere
So I know alot of people on here are streetported, anyone got some dyno numbers / times / reliability ratings for us? I'm wanting to build up a Solo II N/A w/ at least 200 rwhp, and still drive it on the street. |
This is a little off topic, but does anyone have any pictures... of J-ports, Bridge Ports, Monster ports, and Peripheral ports...
My buddy and I did a street port... but ive never have seen what the others look like... |
Roger Mandeville's shop builds motors that make these power levels. The problem is that they are really not street motors. He said he recommended rebuilding them about every 25 hours of use. I think he did have a 12A putting out 250+ at the motor... (impressive)
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I bought one
I bought a periphrial Port motor from pineapple Ishould have around 280 to 320 horspower at the wheels
I will show you a dyno chart to the day i get the motor installed if you guys would like to see it ALSO i am going to drive it as a daily driver And i plan to for a while 2 And i will probably shoot NOS for a little more getty up should get me in the 10's |
I highly doubt you will have 280-320 at the wheels. At the flywheel, maybe.
The "record" HP for an N/A was something like 360-380HP at the flywheel, it was actually a Monster Bridge and not a peripheral, Monsters can actually have more port runner area than a peripheral can because they come in from both sides. The engine's design life was 6 racing hours - just long enough to run six 1-hour races, then it needs rebuilt. I have a feeling N/A HP levels will go way up if people can put Renesis rotors in a traditional peripheral-exhaust engine. Renesis engines run at much higher C/Rs than we are used to seeing, which is how they're able to make (relatively) so much power with so little port timing. The 787B engine made 350hp per 2 rotors at relatively low RPM and with good fuel economy (Le Mans has a fuel limit) because they ran something like 12:1 compression (forget exact number). |
280-320 at the flywheel is very attainable. I know a guy with a Midget with a 320hp PP. It's a full blown race car though, the exhaust on the street would be unbearable by other drivers.
The Renesis make big power not just because of higher compression, but because the exhaust port is moved to the side housing. That has completely eliminated overlap between the intake and exhast stroke. |
Originally posted by ItsRotary7 Well Fprep your on the right track, we use a tuned header from AWR into a single 4" pipe a couple of 65 degree bends placed about 12" after the end of the header straight back into a single dynomax muffler, I also have tuned with a super trap, but you need to dyno it and change in discs to see what works for your car. It might not increase horsepower but if you look at the amount of time your motor is above the specified horsepower, you need to adjust so your motor doesn't just peak. If you can set up your motor so you make x amount of horsepower for the max amount of time. Most engines will start to make horsepower then peak, if you can get that horsepower to stay on for more rpm. |
Originally posted by go_speed_go 280-320 at the flywheel is very attainable. I know a guy with a Midget with a 320hp PP. It's a full blown race car though, the exhaust on the street would be unbearable by other drivers. The Renesis make big power not just because of higher compression, but because the exhaust port is moved to the side housing. That has completely eliminated overlap between the intake and exhast stroke. The Renesis engine is CHOKED. You need overlap to make power. Without it you can't get any scavenging, which is why bridge and peripheral port engines make such big power! |
I really expect that the renesis engine gets as much HP as can be had from the NA 1.3 twin rotor. If you really look at the cutaways, you'll see 2 throttle bodies, two separate induction systems, and I think I see a 4 port exhaust header (no detune box).
When my 91 motor dies, I want one of those!! |
My father owns a dyno I will run it and show you. And i am planning on putting alot of miles on it to . The owner of pineapple drives his Periphrial port truck around alot.
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Originally posted by ItsRotary7 Well Fprep your on the right track, we use a tuned header from AWR into a single 4" pipe a couple of 65 degree bends placed about 12" after the end of the header straight back into a single dynomax muffler, I also have tuned with a super trap, but you need to dyno it and change in discs to see what works for your car. It might not increase horsepower but if you look at the amount of time your motor is above the specified horsepower, you need to adjust so your motor doesn't just peak. If you can set up your motor so you make x amount of horsepower for the max amount of time. Most engines will start to make horsepower then peak, if you can get that horsepower to stay on for more rpm. Originally posted by mazdaspeed7 That was somewhat hard to follow, maybe you could help me out a little. You have a dual-outlet header, and the collector is 12" after the end of the header, right? Then from there it goes back to the muffler? What size piping are on the headers, pipes before the collector, and after the collector? Sorry for all the questions, but Im redoing my whole exhaust, and I would like a good starting point before I do some dyno-tuning to get as much as I can get out of it. |
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