20b motor mounts
I am getting ready to purchase a cosmo front clip from japan and am going to put the 20b in my 88 FC but am looking for motor mounts that shift the motor and transmission 4-6 inches backwards so that the weight distribution won't be thrown off, as this will be used as a drift car. I know that this is the proper way to do the swap in an fd. I am having trouble finding mounts other than banzai racing and i don't know how their mounts position the engine.
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You got some metal and a welder? Make a set of mounts if you are not sure about it. I don't know about the Banzai mounts but he'll find the thread and probably comment as to where they locate the engine.
Honestly though, mounts are only a tiny bit of the fabrication you'll need for this project. |
Our brackets leave the trans in the stock location. There are no changes to the driveline. You will need to make custom mounts for the engine and trans if you want them to sit further back in the tunnel. You will also need to shorten the driveshaft.
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i would check with logan @ definedautoworks. he has a vendor section here and posts in the 20b section a lot. i dont know if his move the motor back though.
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Originally Posted by pyro_racer_0016
(Post 8880564)
I know that this is the proper way to do the swap in an fd.
http://www.geocities.com/evilaviator/banzai1
Originally Posted by pyro_racer_0016
(Post 8880564)
am looking for motor mounts that shift the motor and transmission 4-6 inches backwards
https://www.rx7club.com/20b-forum-95/ |
Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 8882598)
As stated earlier, you will need more than just mounts to do that, and it is not likely that you have the driving skill, money, and/or fabrication skill to warrant that modification. FYI it would cost about $40-50K to build a serious 20B drift car. You should read through our 20B forum before you buy that Cosmo front clip.
https://www.rx7club.com/forumdisplay.php?f=95 Oh BTW don't assume that just cause someone doesn't post very often it means they don't know what they are doing. |
Im not drift expert, but I would of thought with that extra 0.1% of the weight being moved further forward would not affect drifting at all ? I thought it would be better to have a bit of extra weight up front then out back anyway.
If you going NA your almost going to be as light as a turbo block. The weight distribution difference is going to be sweet FA (Id be guessing like 30kg..) If your going to go full custom and make bloody everything then why not lower the whole engine and all the rest for better centre of gravity, you going to have to cut up everything anyway. Even though you have the resources seems like a waist of time for the benefit. |
Originally Posted by Havoc
(Post 8883657)
Im not drift expert, but I would of thought with that extra 0.1% of the weight being moved further forward would not affect drifting at all ? I thought it would be better to have a bit of extra weight up front then out back anyway.
If you going NA your almost going to be as light as a turbo block. The weight distribution difference is going to be sweet FA (Id be guessing like 30kg..) If your going to go full custom and make bloody everything then why not lower the whole engine and all the rest for better centre of gravity, you going to have to cut up everything anyway. Even though you have the resources seems like a waist of time for the benefit. |
Originally Posted by pyro_racer_0016
(Post 8883534)
Oh BTW don't assume that just cause someone doesn't post very often it means they don't know what they are doing.
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Originally Posted by Evil Aviator
(Post 8886481)
Trust me Nate, your post count has nothing to do with it. :hah:
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Originally Posted by pyro_racer_0016
(Post 8886831)
Who is this????? Do I know you?????
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i don't know anyone with a 20b and only one person with a vert, and i don't normally hangout with 41yr olds
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Originally Posted by 87 t-66
(Post 8880856)
i would check with logan @ definedautoworks. he has a vendor section here and posts in the 20b section a lot. i dont know if his move the motor back though.
Q: Can I keep the stock transmission, and will the transmission stay in its factory place? A: Yes, the factory transmission is retained, and not moved from stock. This means no cutting of the PPF frame is made, thus making a much safer 20B powered Rx-7. |
Originally Posted by farberio
(Post 8888501)
Logan's is for and FD and keeps the transmission in the same spot.
Q: Can I keep the stock transmission, and will the transmission stay in its factory place? A: Yes, the factory transmission is retained, and not moved from stock. This means no cutting of the PPF frame is made, thus making a much safer 20B powered Rx-7. |
Originally Posted by farberio
(Post 8888501)
Logan's is for and FD and keeps the transmission in the same spot.
Though he would still be a good person to contact, supreme fabricator and knows his shit. |
well lets meet up and let me see this 20b coupe i want to see how you did it and if i really am wasting my time moving it back
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Originally Posted by pyro_racer_0016
(Post 8888965)
well lets meet up and let me see this 20b coupe i want to see how you did it and if i really am wasting my time moving it back
If you can't wait until this summer to check out my car, why don't you just get yours running with the 20B in the stock location and see how you like it? That will save a LOT of time, money, and headaches, and you can always rework the car later if you don't like it. Just tell your header fabricator that you may end up moving the engine back a few inches, and that way he can bend the pipes for clearance and install a slip joint at a point that will make it easy to cut off a few inches if needed. BTW, my fabricator is The Man, and he made me a special modified TII bell housing that can take either the TII flywheel/starter or NA flywheel/starter. This is a huge advantage because it lets me use a low-inertia NA flywheel with the stronger TII transmission. Since I do not drift, I am not sure if this would be good or bad for you, but my fabricator says he doesn't mind me telling his secret because it is a pain in the rear and he will never do it again himself, lol.
Originally Posted by pyro_racer_0016
(Post 8883534)
i have a 400hp fd that i drift right now and don't want to take a chance on damaging since i have 50k tied up in it already and the loan for it was a graduation present.
Originally Posted by Havoc
(Post 8883657)
Im not drift expert, but I would of thought with that extra 0.1% of the weight being moved further forward would not affect drifting at all ? I thought it would be better to have a bit of extra weight up front then out back anyway.
Comparison of popular drift cars: 51/49 Stock FC RX-7 52/48 S13 240SX 53/47 FC RX-7 with 20B but otherwise close to stock form 53/47 Corolla GTS 53/47 350Z 53/47 MkIV Supra 55/45 S14 240SX 60/40 EVO 8 |
seriously no more joking do i really know you or are you a moderator or something cause i never mentioned my name and i really don't think i know you.
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Quote from Mazda rx7 performance handbook by mike ancas
"Since the 20B has one more rotor, the engine block is longer by the length of the rotor housing plus the width of the intermediate housing (160 millimeter total). One of the experts performing this conversion is Peter Farrel Supercars, who has done two different versions of this transplant. Version One: Add that estra 6 inches toward the front of the car. This produces exception power but with a cramped engine compartment. Also, there is more weight ahead of the front wheels, resulting in a less balanced car overall. The advantage is that it's a simpler conversion and requires a minimal amount of cutting. Version Two: Add the extra 6 inches toward the rear of the car. This approach corrects both of the problems encountered above. The balance of the car is not comprimised, and the engine compartment is not crowded. The problem is that there's no room to add the 6 inches toward the rear of the engine compartment. The solution is to get out the cutting torch. This conversion requires that the transmission be moved 6 inches toward the rear of the car. That's no easy task, and should be left to a professional like Farrel or Pettit." The reason i am following through with this route no matter what. Is I love these cars due to there overall balance and to mess with that would be a waste so regardless of the work or someones opinion I will move the engine back. It will be more work but I do ALL of my own work as it is the only thing that hasn't been done by me was bending and welding my intercooler pipes as i didn't have a mandrel pipe bender or access to a tig welder. |
if you have access to a machine shop and you know how to fabricate... then making your own mounts would be trivial
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Originally Posted by pyro_racer_0016
(Post 8890818)
"That's no easy task, and should be left to a professional like Farrel or Pettit."
BTW, which of the Pettit subframes moves the engine back 6"? :scratch: |
Originally Posted by pyro_racer_0016
(Post 8890818)
It will be more work but I do ALL of my own work.
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