Proof of how our FC's just LOOK FAST, even standing still. BROKEDOWN on the 401 PICS!
 

Brokedown Palace on the 401.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0/IMG_7774.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0/IMG_7775.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0/IMG_7706.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0/IMG_7764.jpg

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0/IMG_7778.jpg

So what went wrong?

Serpentine belt let go. Took out my lower rad hose at the same time. Lost coolant from there and also serpentine belt drives the WATER pump and the alternator as well.

ewww, its got a boat anchor in the front....

rotary goods mad at you ;) , that joke must be old by now.

Car looks awesome though.

Yessir! It does! A whopping massive iron blocked nasty tank boat anchor that puts a massive smile on my face. :)

Must have had a shoddy lower rad hose then? Iv'e heard of many people breaking that belt, but never taking out the lower rad hose. Bummer that happen, but at least it will be new now!

har har...meh, it goes with the territory. :) I like all cars and all FC's. Rotary, V8, Inline 6, whatever. Like em all! :)

Next track car will be an FC with an RB20DET in it. :) Looking for the shell now.

thanks for the compliment! :)

DOH! Didn't even think about it being a v8.

great looking car, i don't car whats under the hood :)

I love FCs :D

thank you. I appreciate that. I put a lot of blood, sweat and tears into this car. It's an ongoing project that has been very very therapeutic for me. I'm getting paint in June and will be doing my over fenders then as well. :) Pretty excited to fit some bigger wheels. (by bigger, I mean wider. :D )

i'm just sayin, prolly a late cast windsor was not a good idea.

really heavy

on the best factory head castings (GT40P) you'll get 280-90hp max

Also if you start making north of 350hp the block will devide into a pair of four cylinder engines.

PS: guirdels dont help it hold together ether, this is an undisputed fact on SBFtech.com

Its all good, though, I do find those claims a little suspect.

First off, let me start by saying if money was not an option and I had to pick a v8 to use, I'd be running a Toyota 1UZ motor with ITB's. I'd even choose an LS2, or 1 or 3 over the 302. End of the day, 302's are CHEAP, a dime a dozen and top my own experience, PROVEN to be capable of monster jam.

I'm not sure what information you're relying on, but as a whole, are you telling me that the Fox Body mustang has not proven itself at the drag strip as being a stout Monster? 350whp limit on a 302/351 block? I've never heard of such a thing. Sure, motors can come apart, any motor can but there are literally 10's of Thousands of mustangs out there that run well over 350 whp with just bolt ons and pump gas with no reliability issues whatsoever.

Its dinosaur inefficient technology and a Japanese 5 litre would be making almost double the horsepower and easily but it IS a proven torque and HP motor. Its a Mustang for god's sake, the ONLY thing those things do well is Drag race. And they do it well!

The 302 with with aluminum heads, intake and general slimming down of, (ie, emmissions stuff, uneeded brackets, accessories blah blah with the battery in the trunk and a aluminum hood combo weighs almost identical to a 13B-T with all its accesorries and stuff. Once you throw the manifold, IC and all the extra stuff needed to run a turbo car with high hp relaibly, the weight adds up quickly.

As far as handling now goes, the car does not feel nose heavy at all. Its a vert and is heavier all around. Car is still balanced and feels identical to a turbo vert except it now has torque down low.

I'm NOT saying its the best motor out there, or that its better than a 13B or that if I had all the money in the world,m I'd choose that. All I'm saying is that its cheap, makes wicked torque and hp and was the best choice for me for what this car is being used for. This car is being used to drift and to get attention for a new business. (Body shop, collision and full service and customizing) I'm not overly concerned with a literal extra 30 pounds or so in the front end of an already heavy vert. Once the cage is in, it'll be a true 50/50. Plus its just a lOT OF FUN TO DRIVE!! IT REALLLY REALLY IS!!! FUN FUN FUN FUN.

So anyways, I would love to build myself a reliable well tuned NA 3 rotor someday, but that isnt in the cards right now.

I'm just confused as to how you are honestly saying that a Ford Mustang fox Body is limited to 350whp. :(

Anyways, happy motoring to all!

LOL

I'm saying with the best FACTORY CASTING head (GT40P explorer casting) is limited to around 300 FLYWHEEL! when naturaly asperated (no nitrous, turbocharging, etc...)

And you asume too much or know too little about the windsor. The 351 is somewhat a differnt animal, its used the same strong casting sence the beginng of time, where the 302's block casting was changed to a block casting that was lighter/weaker in the lifter galley and main webs after the 70's to save ford money and a little weight. However if you find a MEXICAN 302 thats newer it has the same casting as the "old" 302.

I really really doubt that a 302 w/ aluminum heads weighs the same as a 13bt, And a 13bt can produce 300whp reliably.

I'm not saying the fox body (car platform) is limited to 350hp, i'm saying the newer windsor block is limited to around that. however it wont reach that without aftermaket heads or forced induction.

personaly, if i were to v8 swap it would be with a DOHC 5.4L ford modular motor. its the best american v8 IMO.

I'm really not trying to bust your balls, i'm just a realist and i know ford motors.

Apologies for my seemingly ignorant response. I just thought I read that you were saying anything over 350whp was impossible with the motor. Well, without it splitting in half. I'm also a little confused by you saying you can't push more than 300 flywheel with gt40 heads. I dunno.

i'm saying it cannot produce over 300hp SAE (flywheel) on GT40P heads (Explorer GT40P heads flow the best PERIOD) in naturaly asperaited guise. Even though it flows the most for a factory casting, its still not enough to break the 300hp barrier.


gt40 and gt40p are not the same heads, the gt40 flows even less. and if youve got the ET7M truck/80s head, forget about it lol.

i'm not saying 350hp is imposible on the block, it just wont last. 350hp is imposible on any factory casting head when the engine is naturaly asperated.

You highly doubt it? What are you basing that doubt on? I'm basing mine on people who've actually weighed things.

5.4 mod motor? Sure, so would I....but 302 ho - $800 with T5 tranny.

5.4 mod motor, hmmmm- 3500. At least.

I dunno.

I'm running out of an 88 GT with ported stock heads and intake. I'm buying a used setup off some dude.

Cobra heads, some intake aftermarket, b303 cam and some other small stuff. He was making 375 whp

5.4 DOHC mod out of a navigator, only around 1k. dont even piss with the SOHC if you wanna make power.

i can pick up a 13b (S4 n/a) "short block/core" alot easier then i could my 302 short bock when i rebuilt, so i'm saying it weighs more from the start. so i'm basing mine on me picking shit up lol.

302ho? cam is okay, but heads are junk for power. You need explorer intake manifold and GT40P heads. A tried and true budget setup on SBFtech.com is the gt40p heads/intake, HO cam, and 1.7 roller rockers. makes near 300hp with good response and makes a great noise.

http://sbftech.com/

Join, read, de-ignorize

You try picking it up with all its accessories for a turbo setup?

I'm not after monster hp. It can make monster hp. 300 is more thann enough for what I'm doing. With around 400ft lbs, I'm laughing.

If I wanted monster jam and was after it, I would be making it with an rb25.

Oh. And the mod motors are nearly impossible to fit and they weigh a fucking TONNE.

go with a 4.6 DOHC out of a lincoln then, it'll b more rev happy vs the 5.4. The 4.6 deck is shorter then the 5.4 (the only real differnce between the two) as well as the block being aluminum as well as the heads. Now that probably weighs around what the 13bt does.

what accsorys? the only accesorys my FC has is the alt and water pump lol. I dont need no bitchass PS or AC

Monsterjam is for monster trucks, they run blown nitrometh/acho bigblocks....

Dude. Its in the car already. With aluminum heads, intake, batt in trunk and and the aluminum hood it already DOES weigh the same as a 13bt.

It may not be the best, it may not be the coolest, or efficient...but I'll tell you this. EVERY SINGLE person who's driven the car cannot stop grinning like a shit eating monkey after they're done. The car handles, looks good, sounds like a bat out of hell and is FUN to drive. That's the whole purpose of the build. And the swap cost less then 1500 all in.

aluminum heads themselves cost around 1200-2k, so i doubt you have aluminum cyl caps

unless you show me a picture.... then i'll belive you.

I'm buying the whole package for 1200. Heads, cam, intake etc...

1200 isn't much for a car. My coils are worth more than that. My wheels alone were twice that.

I'm not sure what I'm proving.

i thought you said you did the swap for under 1500?

the point is, that light cast windor block wont hold up reliably to the higher horsepower capible with the aftermarket heads/intake etc....

you also need to degree in your aftermarket cam, it is a must.

and that you do not have them now, and i'm guessing sence you refenced the HO thats what you have for a motor, so the best you could be doing is around 260-270 right now.

cant be serious saying a late model 302 is only good for 350hp?

Are you what they call a "hater?"

The swap was under 1500. I never said anything about chassis modifications. Chassis mods are always the $$$ part. Powerplants, meh. I'll have around 8000 into the chassis after I'm done. With the two sets of wheels, coils, overfenders, kit, tie rods, bushings, camber arms etc....

I'm prolly making LESS than 260 right now. Its STOCK. So prolly like 210 whp but with a shitload of torque. Its FUN!

You're insane if you think a 305ho from an 88 gt won't handle bolt on heads, bolt on intake and a B303 cam. Insane.

blocks weeeeaaaakkk

letter cams are terible, your better with the HO and 1.7 IMO

A stock HO produces 225hp and 300ftlb BTW

the block will dump, you'll have two 4cyls that hold no oil

http://www.wallracing.com/images/block_split.jpg


This is what happens 350-400 mark ^^^^

if you paid 2400 for those gr-c's then you just got jipped for about 1800.

They're volk cv-pros, worth about 2000 new. Paid 1000 used.

Forged wide-ish wheels with lower offsets are worth $$$$ plus the obligatory works/vol racing markup.

Hence stock equalling 210 whp

Dude. I can pull pics of rotaries that let go at 200 whp. That's not the norm though. It happens but not to most.

And this car will NEVER see 400whp. Its not what I'm after. I would be happy with 300 but will prolly end up with more just with the package I'm buying from the dude.

just be careful, that pictures worth a thousand words.

rotarys are subject to too much neglect, poor tuning, etc... to really give a power threshold.

you should have 225hp with a stock HO 5.0

the reason the Gt40P explorer is only rated @ 215hp is because the cam sux, it peeters out around 3krpm....

with the engine i built for my explorer reusing the OE gt40p heads and intake i hope for 270-80 once i get headers on it. without the headers (as it is right now) i would be supprised if it produces anything more then 230hp.

other then its gt40p stuff its got HO cam, stock ratio full roller rockers, 1" intake spacer, CAI, and dual 2.5" exhaust.

Me and my friends played with those cars when they were new, back in 1989-1991 you could take a bone stock car, upgrade the fuel pump, injectors, heads, cam, intake, exhaust, and other assorted popular mods and that car would run for 200k miles without a problem and embarrass ALOT of cars on the road and do damm well at the track.

210hp and 300ft lbs of torque in a 3000lb vert is a very nice package that will last FOREVER, I know of Mustangs with over 300k,400k miles on them, they will run forever.

I hear you.

The thing is, I'm not HP hungry like a lot of the other V8 guys are. They're out chasing numbers on the dyno.

I'm not not gonna be doing anything beyond bolting on the heads, intake, headers, cam, fuel pump, ignition. Even then, that will be MORE than enough power for me. Honestly, if I could just reach 300whp, I'd be more than happy.

225 flywheel is what's they're rated at. A mustang. Drivetrain loss equals 205-215 whp.

cv-pros are the same thing as gr-c the center cap is the only difference but you are not using them probably because you don't have the right lug nuts. Do a quick search on google and you will notice that used ones are selling for 500 to 600.

i mean i can get you another set if you want a local guy is selling his for the price of 600.

mark up on work/volk wheels? you obviously fell into this trap since you paid three times as much the wheels are actually worth.

I am quite amused by your reply. I don't quite know why assume and come to conclusions about someone you've never met. :)

Yes, I paid 1000 used. With almos brand new tires on em. That's worth money, afterall, new tires cost actual money, right?

Actually, with the lugs I'm running, I could run the centre caps. I'd be running them if I had them. Why would you assume that I would spend X amount on the wheels but not proper lug nuts?

600x3 equals 1800.

Yes, I am willing to pay more for Works/Volk wheels. Why? They're proven and worth every penny.

I just don't understand what your replies have to do with anything except to make me feel stupid. I dunno. I posted some pics that I thought looked pretty fun. You know, the wholeeven when sitting still.n background is blurred cuz FC's are so sleek kinda thing? You know, fun?

Anyways, I would totally jump on another set for 600 locally. To me though. Depending on tires. If I needed to shell out 400 for tires after that, wouldn't that make them cost $1000? I dunno.

http://i10.photobucket.com/albums/a1...0/IMG_7764.jpg

Still looks broken. Rotary POWER FTMFW!

You're right! It still IS broken! Yes, rotaries are pretty neat and is obviously a superior motor! Seriously!

I agree, but I can aslo have fun with this powerplant! I love all kinds of different motors for different reasons. :)

I even love B series Honda motors! I drive an EK as my daily and I love it to bits!!!!

I just love enjoying all kinds of cars and motors dude.

the douchery is strong in this thread

I thought it was a cool picture, everyone likes to give their opinions about the motor, they should just stfu

I base a lot of what I say on experience.

One of the main reasons I am willing to pay more for a Works wheel is that they can easily be repaired.

This is my AME FIN. (AME is made by Enkei, who in turn, make Work/Volk/AME with all the same process in the same plant...just for those who didn't know already, I'm sure most the "cool kids" on here knew that already though) Dented pretty good. I bought them back from a friend after I sold them to him. He did this:

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y58...0MjQtMTg0M.jpg

I'll post the after pic n a sec. Just used a piece of wood and a BFH to straighten it out. Holds air and balances again.

I don't have the back side after on my phone but I'll post it later.

Anyways, from big dent to all nice, pretty and true enough to balance again. Try doing THAT with a knockoff cheap wheel.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y58...0MjQtMTg0M.jpg

Thx for the compliment in the picture. I'm glad you like it. That was my only intention, to show some pics of an FC looking fast, even broken on the side of the highway with its hood open. I did not want to start a pissing contest.

I don't expect everyone to like my choice of motors for this chassis. Afterall, this is an RX7 forum. Home of the rotary. I truly do love RX'es, I truly do love the rotary as well. But I am first and foremost a car guy, not a V8 guy or a rotary guy or any type of guy except a car and bike guy.

There are pros and cons to all chassis types and all motor types. I can have fun in my FF EK civic around a tight circuit track, I can have fun cruising in a torque beast with the top down enjoying the sound and feeling of a V8 and I can enjoy drifitng the same car and laughing my ass off the whole time in pleasure.

I've enjoyed lots of cars in my day and have positive and negative experiences from all of them. I enjoy FF, FR, MR, blah blah, I enjoy small displacement, hugh revving torqueless motors, low revving torque monsters, or a balance of the two, like my RB series motors into a 240 chassis. Liked them ALL and will never stock to only one type of car or powerplant.

Anyways, I've done enough rambling.

I just wanted to share some pics. I'm a photographer by trade and I'll continue to share pics from my experiences on this forum until there's no more point in doing so.

Cheers to all! Peace!

good looking car though, just wish the front bumper was lower to match the sides. im sure its fun to drive esp with the top down

Thanks for the compliment! I've put my blood and sweat into the car and I really appreciate it when I get a compliment on it. I truly do appreciate it.

I agree about the front. I was actually out buying a dremel tool from the store so I could go home and fit my front lip on. It looks way too high in the front comparatively. I'm hoping to get a more aggressive kit before my paint in June.

I'm using a urethane front lip that's been to hell and back. I pulled it off of my Silvia front end on my other car and am matching it up to the S4 front bumper. Fits pretty good, needs a little massaging and modding but should like like it was made for the car when I'm done with it.....hopefully.

I'll post pics when it's on.

you know whats sad, my 7 left me stranded 15X more than my bug ever had.............fucking car

Lloyd

Some funny stuff being said here, lol.

302s are not super strong, in fact they are pretty weak, but if you turbo them they stay in one piece for a long time even at 500bhp and more than that in torque with a good tune and a 100% stock engine if you keep the revs sensible.
Its revs that kill them, hence why not to good in n/a form, but its been proven in the past that even in n/a form they can do 400bhp with a well thought out HCI swap.

Also, they are mega light, with ally heads its on par with a 13BT.
And in physical size they are the smallest of the V8s by far.
Modular engines are ridiculously heavy and in size they are about the same as a big block.
Best of all, they are crazy cheap.
And considering the price of a 2500bhp capable Dart block, IF you was ever going to do a big power build, its no big deal that the stock block is on borrowed time above about 100bhp per litre in turbo form...

Ronnie- I understand due to the oil pump and pickup location SBFs cant fit as low as Chev V8s- Your handling still seems the same to you?
I know SBFs better than most engines, therefore have always been reluctant to go the Chev route as I have had no dealings with them, but I heard the Fords cant sit low under a FC hood. Hmm...

I think that block i pictured split at sub 5k rpm, its all about the power of the "power stroke". turbo is byfar one of the largest killer of light 302s, the increased pressure chamber and hence much more powerful "power" stroke hapining on both sides of the engine causes cracks initialy running the length of the lifter galley, then after a few more revolutions at the same power level, tears the block down the center. high rpms only incur the problem faster due to the stock rotating assembily/overall engine setup not being rated for sustained high rpm operation.

"Henche en mexico" block is what you need, those are the "good" ones.

they dont fit as low becasue the oil pump is in the front of a windsor and in the back on a gen1 small block chevy. so the pan has to be deeper for a long pickup tube, two sump, etc...

what mods have you looked @? there are too many variations of mod motors to say that "mod" motors in geniral look like big blocks, noticably the large deck hight diffence between the 4.6 and the 5.4, all 5.4 blocks (accept the new mustangs equipt with the 5.4, and the ford GT super car) are cast iorn, many of the 4.6 however are aluminum. I've seen a 5.4 and 302 next to eachother, its not that much bigger... that or you've never seen a big block FE engine next to a mod, JESUS!

the fact is, its a weak block and pushing decent street power can prove totaly fatal to that engine. thats why i call it a boat anchor.

it is a cool set of pictures BTW

All I heard in this thread was 1uz FC and rb20 FC. :biggrin:!