nice work.

no i wasn't planning on flushing it out.....should i :lol: :lol: :lol:

don't worry it has been flushed out and the regulator is going to be replaced as well as the pulsation damper. i was also wondering if the stock fpr would be sufficient for my build or if i should just get an aftermarket one.

update time
 

so i have been doing mock ups to make sure everything fits as it should. i think i have removed and replaced the intake manis about 30 times already haha.

now for the pictures
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...9/SL380637.jpg
rb aluminum flywheel to come soon for here:)
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...9/SL380633.jpg
banzai racing omp block off kit. after installing the plate i realized i have to use an s4 t2 front cover:wallbash: not a big deal just wasted time :lol:
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...9/SL380635.jpg
my homemade egr block off plate. haha. fits perfect i used the gasket as a template it is maybe a 16th bigger all the way around then the gasket.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...9/SL380636.jpg
that little bit of rust looking fluid is actually atf that i have been periodically been spraying in and turning over the engine.

lim installed with fuel rails no injectors in them yet. those are my 460cc for mock up. i have 1680cc for the secondaries but i need to modify the fuel rail to fit them.
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...9/SL380634.jpg
uim and tb on with the rb dual alt pully
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/j...9/SL380631.jpg

sorry for the delay been doing some work for a few people so have been busy plus school takes a lot of time. working on my fuel system right now getting all the fittings and lines for it. i am thinking of running -8 line. but would like some opinions on this whether you think -6 or -8 is a better choice for it. and i know the rails look like crap in the pics but since then i have re sand blasted them and then repainted them the look much better.never try to paint when its too cold:icon_no2: . and its not much but a little flash is nice:lol: i am also confused on how the braided line actually connects to the fittings :scratch: anyone chime in on this please. im sure its simple just haven't messed with the lines in person. im sure i would figure it out in about 30 seconds if it was in front of me.

well im low on funds just bought another vehicle. a 89 nissan d21 5 speed. its nice gets me around. so i am trying to sell my other dd the 90 accord. if that goes through i wil have some money for this.

Dude your so close though man! Definitely cant wait to see this as a finished product.

its almost their man I wanna see this beast together.

thanks guys.

so for an update i recently got an sr motorsports aluminum flywheel currently waiting on my s4 rear counterweight to get here. was going to get an s4 front cover but the guiy wasn't able to get that front bolt off. so i think imma take the route of welding on a bung to my oil pan for a return line. and im going to use the racing beat oil filter pedestal for my oil feed line. and i recently lost my job and am searching for one now so i can really spend any money.(even though i bought a set of mint s5 tails at pick and pull this weekend for 60 bucks)

will post some picks tomorrow morning. even though its all going to be just parts.

i dont get it, isnt a NA motor 6 port?Does the LIM match up to the intake ports? [LIM is 4port,s4 na block 6 port] Are you going to port match it? What about the oil lines? The turbo motors have different front covers and front iron so oil can flow in and return. The turbo water pumps also have a extra water line for the turbo, and it returns to the LIM, which goes into the housing[rear I think]. I think the NA motor has blocked off coolant ports on the housing above the exhaust ports?

I think its easier to work with a turbo shortblock.. Turbo a NA, you will need to figure out where to tap into for oil and coolant

well if you read my last post the oil feed and return has been figured out. im useing the rb oil filter pedistal for the feed line and i am welding on a bung for to the oil pan for the return line.

im going to be running a turbo water pump for the water cooling. and im going to make my own return not through the intake.

and im not going to be running a stock turbo anyways.

the bolt holes line up for the lim just fine as you can see from the pics. i will have to drill and tap for one bolt though.

o sick cool. What about the 5/6th ports and the lower intake ports , do they match the LIM's ports?

dude my first fc looked like that when i got through with it.. it was my old drift car

well the 5th and 6th ports will be blocked off unless i open the port up on the lim to direct air into it. but other wise just the lower ports line up.

Awesome...this is what i will be doing in a couple months and cant wait, i have been doin nothing but reading and im tired of reading, and ready to just do it! Looks great so far and cant wait to see future updates, was also curious to what turbo manifold you were using??

cheapy ebay mani but hey i got it for free who can complain with that haha

update: well finances are still doown so not much has been going on. finally got my counterweight and have since bolted on my srmotorsports flywheel. still need a new friction surface for it. and a clutch. anyone have any good suggestions on clutches?

so to update my friend who lives in corona brought up my t2 trans that needs a rebuild. and boy does it. took off the pan and there was some rust. but its okay. i will pull it apart and hot tank the parts i can and put the aluminum parts in a parts washer. just another project that i am taking on. i didn't wanna buy a tranny that someone said worked fine for 200 and then it goes out and i have to rebuild it. rather spend 50 like i did and just rebuild it. i haven't been home for a while but i will update again with pictures when i can. so far no current progress on the engine.


buy my parts so i can finish this thing man.