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Bought an 87 TII sight unseen for $1,000! check it out, answer my Qs
Recently I've been looking for a cheap RX7 to gut and use as a hillclimb car. I was browsing Craigslist about a week ago and came across a post just titled "Parting out 1987 Mazda RX7". It had 5 or 6 vague performance parts listed, like "greddy turbo", "greddy BOV", a full stainless 3" exhaust and some Stage 4 clutch. I emailed the guy asking why he was parting it out and if he would sell the whole thing. His response? $1,000 for the whole car.
Ok, I'll cut the good part. Turns out the guy selling this RX7 was the owner of a tow company. It belonged to some kid and it was his "drag car." Well, one night he tried running from the police in it and they caught up to him. The car got towed and presumably his license got revoked. He didn't pick the car up after 30 days and so the tow company just wanted to get rid of it. They told me he (the kid) had removed some fancy computer from the glove box. Other than that, the car was in running condition. They even offered to tow it to my house using my AAA card (130 miles away). It's been sitting in my driveway for almost a week now, and I'm learning more and more about it each day. It has a lot of modifications and it's going to be a serious project to get it where I want it to be. Overall though, I have to say I totally stole this car for a grand. Without further adieu, pictures: http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...41645043_n.jpg (after I gave it a thorough douching) http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...64181995_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...33652038_n.jpg More to come... |
Sweet!
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hell yea dude, good deal!
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Fuckin lucky
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sweet deal...wish i was that lucky lol
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So you don't have a title?
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No title, no keys. I'm waiting for the dealership to order and cut a factory key for me. Hopefully no one has changed the cylinder.
I do have a lot of paperwork from the sale and the previous owner's registration, so I think I could get a title if I really wanted to. MA is pretty strict about titles. I'm very competent when it comes to cars - I'm 24 and I run a small auto parts design and fabrication business. I do a lot of wrench turning and have my own two post lift... but RX7s are totally new to me, and definitely have their quirks. The previous owner tore into this car, and he clearly wasn't very mechanically inclined. A lot of stuff is hacked, missing hardware, poorly crimped/dangling wires, etc. I would be super grateful if you guys could help me identify some of the parts and modifications on this car. I know it has an A/C delete, air pump delete, and no power steering. Looks like he did the banjo bolt mod and removed the pulsation damper? Also has R/C engineering injectors. I was told they're 1100ccs. <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTMyMzMyMC ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/64543_880783695498_1422522321_n.jpg" height="600" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> I also think he removed the oil injection system. The car had a couple bottles of 2 cycle in the back seat. I had trouble finding pictures of the oil injection system. There are several blockoff plates on the pass. side of the engine. is one of these the OMP? Blockoff plates in question can be seen here: <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTQzNTkwMC ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/3739_880783675538_1836670383_n.jpg" height="500" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> Next up I'd like to see if anyone can help me identify this turbo. Only markings I could find read 104277 http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...27950138_n.jpg http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...47696278_n.jpg |
The battery was just kinda chillin in the trunk. I don't care much for the relocation as there is so much room in the engine bay. What is the factory battery location? Anyone have a pic? I'd like to move it back to the engine bay with stock mounts if possible.
<img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTg5ODU5MS ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/548891_880783520848_1178773064_n.jpg" height="550" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> It looks like an oil feed line coming off the oil pan was cut... or is that just a really long drain plug? I haven't really gotten under this bad bitch yet. <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTc5MDMzMC ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/389443_880783999888_1582637839_n.jpg" height="550" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> braided lines were a nice surprise: <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTgxNTI4MC ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn1/561851_880783875138_902340192_n.jpg" height="550" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> Sweet vitamin water catch can... <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTgzNDU3MC ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/598656_880783740408_628875233_n.jpg" height="550" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> Car also came with a Greddy turbo timer and turbo XS MBC. I don't want these, so if anyone wants to make an offer they're for sale. <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTg2MTQ*MS ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/428_880783545798_1638322333_n.jpg" height="550" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> Soooo.... that should be it for now. I have a ton more pics but I feel bad putting up so many already. Thanks in advance for any help you can give! Any bit helps, even if it seems obvious It may have escaped me. |
Now we get to the real problem, the thing keeping me from starting this thing: The missing ECU components.
Found these harnesses in the glovebox where the standalone or piggyback must have gone. <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTY5ODcyMC ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/521780_883262802348_1009551981_n.jpg" height="600" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> I followed those wires to This: <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTY3ODE5MC ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-h.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/525725_883262857238_674488609_n.jpg" height="600" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> So I'm assuming the missing piece is a Microtech LT10c. I really don't want to drop 1k on one... so I'm hoping I can hook up the factory ECU again. Then I followed the wires from the microtech to the coils: <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTY1MzMyMC ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/302809_883262867218_1090510572_n.jpg" height="600" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> Doesn't look too stock to me, lol. So.. is this ECU supposed to be plugged into anything? lol. <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTU3NjgzMC ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/586_883262717518_731704442_n.jpg" height="600" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> I was a little concerned when I couldn't find the factory MAF (I realize it's not a true wire MAF but a barn door setup like on the Porsche 944. I'm still gunna call it a MAF though:)) So Im assuming this car is running on some MAP setup? what is this sensor right before the TB, and the fusible link wired next to it? it looks to be tied into the aftermarket ECU setup. <img style="visibility:hidden;width:0px;height:0px;" border=0 width=0 height=0 src="http://c.gigcount.com/wildfire/IMP/CXNID=2000002.0NXC/bT*xJmx*PTEzNTE3MzUyNjM1MzAmcHQ9MTM1MTczNTUzOTgxMC ZwPTE4NTUxMSZkPSZnPTEmbz*2MTE1MzU3OWQ*MjU*ZjU1YWUx/MzUyMGQwYjdlOWVjYw==.gif" /><a href="http://www.freecodesource.com"><img src="http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/28056_883262937078_663869433_n.jpg" height="500" width="" alt="img" border="0"/></a> |
Comments in Red :) Welcome to the club - you will find these cars quite easy to work on, they are just like any other car besides the engine. Good luck on your hillclimb build - keep us updated!
Originally Posted by nodestination1
(Post 11272914)
No title, no keys. I'm waiting for the dealership to order and cut a factory key for me. Hopefully no one has changed the cylinder.
I do have a lot of paperwork from the sale and the previous owner's registration, so I think I could get a title if I really wanted to. MA is pretty strict about titles. I'm very competent when it comes to cars - I'm 24 and I run a small auto parts design and fabrication business. I do a lot of wrench turning and have my own two post lift... but RX7s are totally new to me, and definitely have their quirks. The previous owner tore into this car, and he clearly wasn't very mechanically inclined. A lot of stuff is hacked, missing hardware, poorly crimped/dangling wires, etc. I would be super grateful if you guys could help me identify some of the parts and modifications on this car. I know it has an A/C delete, air pump delete, and no power steering. Looks like he did the banjo bolt mod and removed the pulsation damper? Also has R/C engineering injectors. I was told they're 1100ccs. The pulsation damper has been the cause of many car fires, and the modification is common amongst the series 4 FC. If you've got the money, vendors such as Full Function Engineering and Rising RPM sell aftermarket rails and fuel systems. I also think he removed the oil injection system. The car had a couple bottles of 2 cycle in the back seat. I had trouble finding pictures of the oil injection system. There are several blockoff plates on the pass. side of the engine. is one of these the OMP? The OMP is located just below the compressor housing, above the oil drain from the turbo. There have been arguments as to the benefits of removing the OMP, so it really comes down to preference and your own conclusions. The rest of the block off plates are used in the removal of factory emissions components. You may want to replace the topmost component that was blocked off (Bypass Air Control Valve) since this valve regulates idle under varying loads. Blockoff plates in question can be seen here: Next up I'd like to see if anyone can help me identify this turbo. Only markings I could find read 104277 The compressor housing doesn't look factory, so it's most likely this is a Hybrid Turbo. It's essentially the stock turbocharger with the compressor section modified to produce more power. |
Another
Originally Posted by nodestination1
(Post 11272915)
The battery was just kinda chillin in the trunk. I don't care much for the relocation as there is so much room in the engine bay. What is the factory battery location? Anyone have a pic? I'd like to move it back to the engine bay with stock mounts if possible.
The factory location for the battery is just behind the headlight assembly on the Driver's side of the engine bay. You would have to do something about the FMIC piping to restore the location. It looks like an oil feed line coming off the oil pan was cut... or is that just a really long drain plug? I haven't really gotten under this bad bitch yet. No sure what this is, but it looks like a quick drain spout. braided lines were a nice surprise: Sweet vitamin water catch can... Car also came with a Greddy turbo timer and turbo XS MBC. I don't want these, so if anyone wants to make an offer they're for sale. Soooo.... that should be it for now. I have a ton more pics but I feel bad putting up so many already. Thanks in advance for any help you can give! Any bit helps, even if it seems obvious It may have escaped me. |
wow, what a great find. you will need a factory engine harness to run that stock ecu. The Microtech deletes alot of sensors including the stock MAF, but by the looks of it he had the coils wired for direct fire?
the turbo kind of looks stock to me. you will probably have to tore it down to check everything is in working condition |
Last one
I hope I was helpful somewhat!
Originally Posted by nodestination1
(Post 11272932)
Now we get to the real problem, the thing keeping me from starting this thing: The missing ECU components.
Found these harnesses in the glovebox where the standalone or piggyback must have gone. I followed those wires to This: So I'm assuming the missing piece is a Microtech LT10c. I really don't want to drop 1k on one... so I'm hoping I can hook up the factory ECU again. You don't necessarily have to buy an LT10, the LT8s can be found used on these forums occasionally, for less than 1k. I ran this in my car for about 6 years. Not the best ECU (in fact there are way better for about the same price), but it's only less reliable than a wood burning stove - a solid unit. Here's an LT10 and harness for sale ($700 shipped): https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...parts-1016118/ If you want to install the factory ECU, you will need to acquire a few items: -Stock engine harness for an Series 4 TII -Stock AFM S4 TII -If stock sensors were not used for the Microtech, you will need these as well Regardless of what you decide to do, the coil wiring would have to be redone. Then I followed the wires from the microtech to the coils: Doesn't look too stock to me, lol. So.. is this ECU supposed to be plugged into anything? lol. That's the factory ECU. If it says "N332" - then it is the correct one for the car. :icon_tup: I was a little concerned when I couldn't find the factory MAF (I realize it's not a true wire MAF but a barn door setup like on the Porsche 944. I'm still gunna call it a MAF though:)) So Im assuming this car is running on some MAP setup? what is this sensor right before the TB, and the fusible link wired next to it? it looks to be tied into the aftermarket ECU setup. You are correct, with the Microtech (or any other standalone engine management system) the engine runs on a pressure reference, and needs no AFM. The sensor on the TB is the factory air temperature sensor. |
Wow! Thank you maczPayne and everyone else, that was incredibly helpful.
Pressure reference, eh? well now it makes more sense that there was a vac line running to the glove box. I'm going to have to take some time and think about whether I should reconnect the factory ecu and sensors or buy another standalone. I guess for now I should focus on getting a key so I can unlock the steering wheel, setting up a working battery and testing out the electrical components. Hell I still don't even know if it'll turn over... More to come! |
I don't think he deleted the pulsation damper. That thing would be on the firewall side of the engine and not on the side of the engine you are showing at the pictures.
I'm wondering why he left the stock ecu in place...:scratch: |
Wow! Nice find!
And un-shielded power wires to the coils, eh? Scary.... With that oil plug, it looks almost like he drilled a hole and welded in a temp sensor or something, haha. That's weird... |
Why would you want shielded ones? It's only 12V DC there.:scratch:
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He probably meant uninsulated, heh
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With the current condition of the car, I would recommend picking up a Microtech. It doesn't make sense to go back and use the stock system which cant handle the cars current mods.
By the time you find ECU harness $100 AFM $50 Pressure sensor $25 Coils $50 BAC valve $25 Rtek $400-500 Injectors $100 You could pick up a Microtech and start fixing his hackjobs instead. The stock ECU wont be able to handle that turbo, and the Rtek(modified stock ECU) is the cheapest "solution". It does have downsides however which include lack of features, still 25 year old ECU, poor interface. For $1000 you have a whole lotta car. :) |
Originally Posted by nodestination1
(Post 11272712)
Ok, I'll cut the good part. Turns out the guy selling this RX7 was the owner of a tow company. It belonged to some kid and it was his "drag car." Well, one night he tried running from the police in it and they caught up to him. The car got towed and presumably his license got revoked. He didn't pick the car up after 30 days and so the tow company just wanted to get rid of it.
... Have fun with your new car. |
So many questions. Where to begin?! Turbo looks stock. Ecu floating around on the floor looks like the oem ecu. Pulsation damper is on the firewall side of the primary fuel rail, not the one shown in your picture. Oil metering pump is indeed removed. You must run premix.
Mass should be able to issue you a new title. Call up the DMV. FC3S Pro v2.0: FAQ - Pulsation Damper |
Originally Posted by MaczPayne
(Post 11274206)
He probably meant uninsulated, heh
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I'm so jelly. Even with the quirks such a nice deal!
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Thank you everyone for the responses! I can't wait to start getting into this project... now if only I could get a key and unlock the steering wheel.
Don't feel sorry for the previous owner... if he had been responsible with his car, the police wouldn't have towed it (not "stolen" it). And then he had a chance to recover the car but instead he pulled the ecu, the only valuable part, and left it to rot. I say he was a spoiled turd that didn't deserve the car. It could very well be the stock turbo, but I would be surprised if the previous owner did all the other modifications and left the turbo untouched. I'm not too concerned with making big power so I don't care much either way. I'd just like to know what it has. Does the stock S4 turbo have 104277 stamped on the compressor housing? I'm probably going to wait until I see a good deal on a microtech and go that route. Then I'll tow the car to a local dyno and see if I can get a decent tune. The picture of the glove box with the two harnesses... do those plug directly into a LT10c, an 8s, both, or neither? Thanks again! My Introduce Yourself Thread My 92 VR4: http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...25133409_n.jpg |
Originally Posted by seandizzie
(Post 11274417)
So the cop's steal this guys car... you buy it from them. I feel sorry for the previous owner.
Have fun with your new car. |
Take the hatch tumbler out and take it to a lock smith to get a new key cut, That should work if not the passenger door tumbler should have a code on it
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I've got a microtech lt10 for sale! Much less than $1000 pmd u
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Originally Posted by nodestination1
(Post 11278226)
Thank you everyone for the responses! I can't wait to start getting into this project... now if only I could get a key and unlock the steering wheel.
Don't feel sorry for the previous owner... if he had been responsible with his car, the police wouldn't have towed it (not "stolen" it). And then he had a chance to recover the car but instead he pulled the ecu, the only valuable part, and left it to rot. I say he was a spoiled turd that didn't deserve the car. It could very well be the stock turbo, but I would be surprised if the previous owner did all the other modifications and left the turbo untouched. I'm not too concerned with making big power so I don't care much either way. I'd just like to know what it has. Does the stock S4 turbo have 104277 stamped on the compressor housing? I'm probably going to wait until I see a good deal on a microtech and go that route. Then I'll tow the car to a local dyno and see if I can get a decent tune. The picture of the glove box with the two harnesses... do those plug directly into a LT10c, an 8s, both, or neither? Thanks again! |
Originally Posted by nodestination1
(Post 11278226)
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Originally Posted by john smack
(Post 11278316)
Take the hatch tumbler out and take it to a lock smith to get a new key cut, That should work if not the passenger door tumbler should have a code on it
Originally Posted by MaczPayne
(Post 11279187)
Planning on Auto-x'ing the FC? They're fun to toss around corners :)
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Ok, I have an update. I got a key cut at mazda... only took a little over an hour for them to figure it out. It works in the driver's door lock and the ignition, but not the passenger side.
I hooked up a charged battery and started testing stuff out. The exterior lights work - the hazards, tails, turns, the headlight motors, etc. But nothing else gets power. No wipers, horn, windows, dome lights. I haven't had much time to look into it... but I was wondering if any of that stuff might be affected by the lack of an ECU. On my Mitsu and some other cars I've dealt with, there is a ETACS or similar computer for controlling basic functions. I saw a small module by the glovebox that wasn't plugged into anything. Also - I want to bump the starter just to see if the engine turns over. I don't know how long the car has been sitting and I'm considering putting some oil in the plugs to keep everything lubed. What would you do in my situation? Also also - the pulsation damper is stock and old looking. I'll replace or banjo it before I do any real driving. Thanks everyone! KS |
Only thing affected by the replacement of the stock ECU with a Standalone is the wipers - the wiring of it which should have been separated from the stock engine harness, if the PO did it. Everything else should work.
If you ever wanted air conditioning again, there are two wires you can jumper on the factory body harness plug that plugged into the stock ECU. I can't remember which at this time unfortunately. |
Very nice find :D
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For only a stack, you can't beat that. Looks like you even got some extras too.
Awesome |
Originally Posted by nodestination1
(Post 11278226)
Don't feel sorry for the previous owner... if he had been responsible with his car, the police wouldn't have towed it (not "stolen" it). And then he had a chance to recover the car but instead he pulled the ecu, the only valuable part, and left it to rot. I say he was a spoiled turd that didn't deserve the car.
So do you have a title yet? Seeing as your posting pic on the web and such you might wana change the locks...wouldn't be hard to find and steal back seeing as the owner of the car has the key. |
ok, some more pics
Ok, finally got under this bad biatch.
http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...10755165_n.jpg http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...74378227_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...09710784_n.jpg http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...99008925_n.jpg Bit of a leaky trans :( http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...93616500_n.jpg Found some more markings on the turbo. The bottom of the comp housing reads 12068-6. still no idea what it is, but it's not stock. I guess I'll just wait and see what happens when I get it on a dyno. What is this 'rigged BS? PO put a cable around the motor mount to hold this flap open. It looks kind of like a wastegate flap but I know it's not. I was guessing it has to do with the dual vane turbo? http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...31329743_n.jpg http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...00141916_n.jpg Also - assuming red bushings aren't stock. |
correct the engine mounts are not stock. Also p/o wired open the twin scroll flapper door.
I'm jealous of your lift! what kind is it? I am in the market for one that will fit in my garage too. |
Ok, thank you, that's what I thought on both counts. I'll have to do some research on the pros/cons of keeping the scroll flapper door open. (I'm not leaving that wire mess there!)
Thanks! It's a Benwil TP7. I got in on Craigslist for $800. Benwils are ancient- they went out of business a long time ago, but they supplied GM and chrysler dealerships with all their lifts in the 80s/90s. They are incredibly well made, simple, and parts are cheap/available. It's also ALI certified, which means it can safely lift 150% of it's rated capacity (7000lbs). Many lifts made today are from China and not ALI. It was in really rough shape when I got it, so I went through it, stripped it and refinished it. Took a couple months. I also wired and installed it myself, so if you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. I have some great installation tips! Some before pics: http://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...51135959_n.jpg http://sphotos-b.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...53027955_n.jpg |
You got a steal of a deal
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Finally did something to the RX7! I replaced the missing FTP lens, lol.
Ok, seriously though, I found an LT10s I'm going to make an offer on. Now the fun part - getting it to run. More questions: I'm pretty sure it'll get fuel, but I'm concerned with spark. I don't know what the car has for coils - looks to be a direct fire setup? maybe? I want to get rid of the hacky, ugly coil setup the car has. I figure I can only tune it properly if I know what I've got. I'm thinking about going back to stock coils - I read that you can use the stock ones with the x4 if you remove the igniters. In my research I've also heard of people running the lt10 without the x4. Seems like the x4 is kind of a PITA and prone to overheating, so maybe I'll get rid of it. Using a laptop, is there a way to set up the lt10s to work with or without the x4? or does it come from microtech set up one way or the other? Also been shopping around for cheap track wheels/tires. I'm leaning towards picking up some mustang rims and slapping on a set of hankook ventus r-S3s. :) |
It's ALIVE!!!!
well, sort of. It just ran for the first time (accidentally) for several seconds... without a manifold or any fuel injectors!? Since I lasted updated the thread I wired up a microtech lt10s and picked up some stock 550s to get a base tune. (turns out it had 720s for primaries and 1000 secondaries). I found a fuel leak at the rail and was working on replacing the rails/injectors. I knew it was getting spark, so I thought maybe it was getting too much fuel or none at all. I was testing the injectors when it happened. Scared the sh*t outta me. I had the fuel pump disconnected. The secondaries were in but the primary injectors were out of their holes. I had a rag under the primary rail and I had a stethoscope on one of them to listen for clicking. I was alone, bumping the starter to turn it over with a 12v wire to the battery. All of a sudden it fired up and revved out of control, as there was no throttle plate to restrict airflow. It's still sort of confusing... all I can think is that some residual fuel in the lines leaked into the holes for the primaries and allowed it to run. maybe next time I'll disconnect the coils ;) |
I need to check Craigslist more often! Keep up the good work!
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Great story man!! Keep finding those stellar DEALS!!
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Just thought I post a quick update on this budget build.
It took a lot of time and effort, but I got the car running and driving fairly well. I took the car to get dyno tuned at a local shop that specializes in mazdas. It made 275.5whp... at only 6,000rpms. The S4 wastegate was causing some major boost creep, nearly 15psi by 6500rpms. The stock primaries and 720ccs couldn't keep up and were leaning out. There is no doubt this car is capable of 300+whp with some light tweaks. Also, I found out the car had an S5 motor swapped. I have loved working on this car and I've totally fallen in love with all things rotary. https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f...o/IMG_0258.JPG https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-B...f-5ff9c8ef623f ^did an S5 front end, new wheels, tires, brakes, yadda yadda. |
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