How to: Coverting N/A to TII
Hello folks seems a lot of you are interested in Turbo'ing your N/A's
parts list: TII Motor complete i.e manifolds,turbo,injectors,intercooler..... Turbo wiring harness TID Turbo Hood or get a front mount Turbo boost sensor (strut tower) selenoid resistor Turbo Airflow meter Turbo ECU Turbo acc cable So Ill make a little write up and post some visual aids tomorrow (digi cam batt dead) NA prep:::::: lift up the passenger side carpet and you will see a metal shield that houses the ECU disconnect the ECU pull out ecu there's more yellow /orange on the side disconnect those too including a small white plug that is hooked up to a brown boost sensor looking thingy open hood pull out charcoal canister and wiper reservoir gently start pulling the wiring out next disconnect all the chassis wiring oil sensor engine temp sensor spark wires take out rad and fan lift car drain oil disconnect oil lines disconnect fuel lines ( you might want to yank out the fuel pump fuse and spin motor to remove fuel pressure) becarefull with the front ones you need 2 wrenches then get back under car disconnect starter motor bolts then top motor bolts ac lines remove top manifold powersteering lines disconnect and remove na airflow meter disconnect and remove boost sensor disconnect whole exhaust leaving the exhaust manifold but a jack under the tranny so it don't fall double check everything is clear to yank motor out complete Ok get engine hoist hook up chain to rear and front cast housings remove the motor with alt,water pump,bottom manifold etc intact 2 things to consider 1: Do you want to keep your current drive train (tranny and diff) 2: you want to drop a whole TII engine and drive train (expensive unless you find a donor car) In my case I found a 88 Turbo II motor complete with ECU,boost sensor wiring harness,intercooler turbo for $600 spent another 600-700 rebuilding and porting the motor I did not however have the Turbo tranny or starter or drive shaft or rear end so what to do? Easy! My SE was a 87 so I swapped the Turbo flywheel and front counterweight and put the n/a counter parts. Note) Don't install 89-91 counterweights on a 87-88 engine eccentric shaft has different balance Once my engine was put together (all pollution stuff removed makes installation a breeze) I put the turbo manifold and turbo on the engine put the bottom intake manifold on installed the meter oil lines top breaks just install silicon hoses plastic to oil injectors. make sure you hook up a vacuum like to the fuel reg to a vacuum source there one on the bottom manifold by the injectors then hooked up the wiring (fuel injectors, water pump sensor TPS etc once you got most of the wiring pugs hooked up It's time to install the engine into the bay This the tricky part especially when doing it alone :) get the engine hoist and chain to the rear and front cast housings put a jack underneath the tranny and lift the tranny all the way move engine over rad support keeping it centered get it close to tranny. Once lined up slowly let the engine down till you see the trannys shaft go into the clutch. Now lower the tranny a bit and try wiggling the engine to get the shaft to seat inside the pilot bearing.( you might have to lower or rise tranny a few times while pushing the engine towards the tranny for it to seat properly) The bitch here is getting the motor mounts to line up the passenger side mount is the easy one install the rubber mount to the body and the cover the engine mount will fall on this The driver side has the bolt the needs to go thru the chassis good luck here :) took me a good hour to get it in Once you see that the top rear housing of the motor is pretty flush to the tranny put a bolt on the top by the passenger side to keep the motor from disconnecting from tranny when your lowering the tranny all the way OK your almost there finish bolting the motor up, hook up the main oil lines install starter install the mazdatrix down pipe(recommended $115 now we need to pass the wiring warness ecu plugs thru the firewall pass the plugs one at a time then go inside the car and pull the plugs till it reaches the ecu area There's one white plug that hooks up to a brown boost sensor looking one. The yellow plugs are easy, you cant mix them up cause there different sizes ,only the correct ones can plug into ecu go ahead and install the rad+fan and hoses hook up the temp sensor oil temp rad sensors solenoid resister-big white plug in front of passenger side strut tower. Now for the top manifold place on top of bottom manifold making sure it has a new or good condition gasket bolt it up hook up throttle position sensor manifold pressure sensor alternator wires install TID and airflow meter bov and vacuum hoses to thos parts like the boost sensor 3 way tee maybe a 4 tee for a boost gauge install intercooler tighten all clamps real good hook up fuel lines new spark plugs You need to replace the NA accelerator cable with a Turbo one much longer wraps around motor add water and coolant install batt DO NOT put the spark wires yet get in car crank the motor to let oil lub the motor and the turbo (15 secs or so) Now hook up the spark plug wires get back in car *prey* LoL wait a few secs for fuel to build pressure turn the key after a few motor spins waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa prrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr she Lives! she Lives!! :) :) cough* cough* Oh my the smoke after a few min outside the smoke will go away next get a custom 3 inch exhaust go to track run 13's :) *I might of forgot some stuff but that's the jist of it |
O thats it? Ight I guess I'll do my concersion tomorrow then. :D
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Very Well Done
You sir are a great man.
I'm sure this will help plenty and btw thanks from all the newbies asking ;-) |
oh yeah, here ya go
If you don't want me hosting just tell me and I'll take it down http://members.home.net/node10/How_T..._Kabooski1.doc right click and save as |
Incredible, looks like you obviously know your car from a-z, congrats...
I am very new to rx7's cars, and hopefully will be purchasing a 1990-1991 Rx7 Non Turbo in a few months time... Can you please tell me how much it will cost? To get all these parts??? An estimation I suppose? It would really help, I want to know what im getting myself into here Thanks A lot Take care Ps... Im taking it, that its possible to do on a 1990-1991 rx7 |
Wiring Harness
Well i am on the way of converting my NA to a TII. Do yo mean wiring harness as in wiring harness or ENGINE wiring harness (i know its a dumb question). Also since i have a 86 i want to go with a 89-91 TII engine...so i would need a series 5 engine wiring harness, ECU am i missing anything else?
thanks Will:D |
I'll try to remember to archive this thread when everybody is done posting in it.
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86FC.......I'm sure Kabooski will answer you, but did you notice in his post the part about the counterweights? Its important. If you want to keep your 86transmission and put in a 89turbo engine, I believe your going to have to put a 86 counterweight on the 89 engine to match the 86flywheel. Kabooski, is that right? I am still a little in a fog about the counterweights. Also see http://www.mazdatrix.com/b5.htm about halfway down the page is a note about counterweights, rotors and flywheels. Just trying to help.
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Originally posted by Mykl I'll try to remember to archive this thread when everybody is done posting in it. |
Originally posted by HAILERS 86FC.......I'm sure Kabooski will answer you, but did you notice in his post the part about the counterweights? Its important. If you want to keep your 86transmission and put in a 89turbo engine, I believe your going to have to put a 86 counterweight on the 89 engine to match the 86flywheel. Kabooski, is that right? I am still a little in a fog about the counterweights. Also see http://www.mazdatrix.com/b5.htm about halfway down the page is a note about counterweights, rotors and flywheels. Just trying to help. he needs to use a series 5 n/a flywheel and counterwieght the 89+ rotors wieght is diffrent then the 86-88 the wiring harness i'm discussing here is the one that goes to the motor-the one that has the injector plugs yes you need series 5 ecu ,harness and airflow meter |
yeah i just got done doing this last week and its a hell of a lot easier and a hell of alot of harder with the haltech. its cooler wiring and you know what everything does yet its a bit harder to wire than stock stuff. and there's a hell of a lot less to wire than stock wires.
yeah i did half a day to pull the motor out and random shit you dont need for haltech. next half day popping new motor in. and the next full day wiring haltech. really pretty easy. now the turbo driveline is collecting dust and stinking up the garage. thats another project for another day. jason |
Originally posted by Node *shoves Mykl in a box and archives him* |
Oh, I have a recommendation.
I've not ever pulled an engine from an RX-7, but I would think that it would be much much easier to pull the engine and transmission both at the same time rather than trying to line the engine up with a transmission that's resting on a jack when you try to reinstall the engine. I'm sure it would take a bit of maneuvering to get them both in and out at the same time, but overall I would think that it would make installation of the engine easier. What are your thoughts on this? Do you think it would make it easier or more difficult? |
yep it's easier that way (bit longer process tho)
You would need some one there to help you line things up and bolt the tranny mounts, while you hold the engine steady I did not have any to help me :( so I had to do it the hard way :) |
Not that it matters but I've done a few and thought about removing the whole shebang. Came to the conclusion that, no, its easier doing the engine alone. Too much time lost removing interior parts and exaust parts to make clearance. As long as the engine is reasonably level in relation to the transmission and I did a good job installing the clutch, I have no problem. I have struggled on one car in particular because I half assed the above items. Payed dearly. Always do it by myself. Now that I said that, I'm sure twelve hundred people will write and say baloney. Personal preference.
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Every thread I've read on this is about swapping the engine, but I was wondering is there any way to fabricate something without swapping the engine?
The "RX7 Performance Handbook" kinda glosses over the whole process of adding a turbo to an NA by saying that the second gen transmission is strong enough. :rolleyes: But I find that a little hard to believe. |
3 quick points to add in here.
1. I agree with the comment that the engine is easier to remove and install alone with no tranny attached. I have the whole car jacked up on stands and the tranny is on stands as well. i lower the motor in and line up the tranny to the motor then turn the flywheel until I get the right lineup and bam she is in :) 2. The N/A is not strong enough to handle a turbo in my opinion. If people can break the driveshaft with their cars being N/A, think of what a turbo would do :D 3. The only thing you have to worry about when figuring out the flywheel/counterweight issue is what year are your rotors from. If you have a series 5 motor, then you need series 5 counterweight. You can use a lighter flywheel but you will need the automatic transmission counterweight from a series 5 car. The same goes with any engine. The counterweight is the key. In stock configuration manual trannies the counterweight is integrated into the flywheel so you wont see an extra one. |
Hey kabooski, is that pic in your sig your actual car? I would love to see some pics of your project and your car, awesome work man.
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1. If you're pulling just the engine, then I'd just leave the tranny in there, primarily because of all the stuff you've gotta do to get the trans out (exhaust, heat shields, then driveshaft). I don't see what interior parts you need to remove, save the plastic shifter console and a few bolts.. I'd hope that isn't TOO much work :)
However, that's not to say that pulling it out with the engine is hard. It's about the same difficulty as pulling a boinger engine with trans. 2. Getting the mounts to line up: tilt the drivers side mount in (it's the one with just a hole. Then lower the other side and it will slide down into the slot there. Meanwhile use a jack to lift the rear of the trans up, but don't bolt in. Once the two mounts are in, then bolt up the trans. It means a little grunt power, but it's maybe 30 minutes work. |
I was doing a 12A swap into my '80 SCCA Car (I was just looking for TurboII swaps, that's how I came across this thread), but anyhow, we had to do motor/tranny and I think it is a HUGE pain to line up engines to trannies when they're inside the car, much easier to yank them both out together, mate the new stuff together outside the car, then drop them both in from the top (don't even TRY to do it from the bottom, we tried and it wasn't going to work unless we took off the front swaybar (or what looked like a swaybar, this is the first real work on a car I've done besides brakes, exhaust, that crap).. So moral of the story, if you're pulling 'em both (and even if you're not) I think it's easier to pull them together.
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When replacing the N/A trans with the TII, the drive shaft is the same in lenght streght and overall dimentions right.
I would seem easier to put in the engine and trans togerther wouldn't it. |
Found this web site with great price on TII engine, trans, ecu and wiring harness.
http://swapjdm.com/swapjdm/home.htm |
Just found out that there is no ecu or wiring harness included
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You've re-invented hope for me kabooski!
I really really wanted to do this some time back and decided against it due to the driveline issues with my 86 N/A. I spent a fair whack of money getting a custom shaft built for her with replaceable unions and I didn't want to ditch that for an old piece of shit. The fact that you have successfully done this transplant and kept all the old gear REALLY makes me want to do it now, I think it may be time to start saving. |
Originally posted by HAILERS 86FC.......I'm sure Kabooski will answer you, but did you notice in his post the part about the counterweights? Its important. If you want to keep your 86transmission and put in a 89turbo engine, I believe your going to have to put a 86 counterweight on the 89 engine to match the 86flywheel. Kabooski, is that right? I am still a little in a fog about the counterweights. Also see http://www.mazdatrix.com/b5.htm about halfway down the page is a note about counterweights, rotors and flywheels. Just trying to help. NO NO NO!!!! The counterweight YEAR must match engine, front counterweight is not different for NA or turbo. If you use an 86-88 engine (NA or turbo, doesn't matter)with a tII tranny (of any year) use an 87-88 TII flywheel and the stock front counterweight. If you use an NA tranny with that same engine, use an 86-88 NA flywheel) If you use an 89-91 engine (NA or TII, doesn't matter) with a TII tranny, you use an 89-91 TII flywheel. If you use the same engine with an NA tranny, you use an 89-91 NA flywheel. The flywheels are different due to the difference in ROTOR weight. NA and TII rotors weigh the same. See the mazdatrix website for confirmation if you don't believe me. Brad |
One thing that you guys are forgetting about this conversion is that we need lots and lots of $$$$$$$$$$. :)
But once were done...it will be all worth it! :) :) wickedkin6s44 |
have fun busting that n/a tranny;)
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If I ever get all the parts I'll be doing a slightly different version of what Aaron did.
The writeup looks good, can't wait for pics. |
1. The N/A tranny is strong enough (its also lighter)
2. Its easier to pull the engine alone on a 2nd gen 3. Its much easier and cheaper to put a turbo on a N/A then to do the motor swap( just yank out all the wiring except the ignition stuff, take out all the injection stuff, buy a manifold from RB and a weber sidedraft carb and turbo hat from your local VW shop, get a turbo and manifold(very easy to make thanks to RB exhaust flange) get some intake tubing and done) yes its that simple. |
actually, theres things you have to consider mattrx7. when you boost a N/A, it's not really built that way. If you would want it to be reliable, you're gonna have to build up the motor to accept boost reliablity. so why not get a turbo motor that's already has all that... makes sense ..
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Originally posted by mattrx7N/A 1. The N/A tranny is strong enough (its also lighter) 2. Its easier to pull the engine alone on a 2nd gen 3. Its much easier and cheaper to put a turbo on a N/A then to do the motor swap( just yank out all the wiring except the ignition stuff, take out all the injection stuff, buy a manifold from RB and a weber sidedraft carb and turbo hat from your local VW shop, get a turbo and manifold(very easy to make thanks to RB exhaust flange) get some intake tubing and done) yes its that simple. I have heard of ppl breaking the n/a tranny every 2000miles from the abuse of a turbo motor. Its gotta be hard to control the turbo with a carb, i've heard of lost of complications, its't it hard to compress air through a carb? |
Im talking from experience on this, I guess if you like to pop the clutch at 6000 you will break the tranny. And also its very easy to run a turbo with the carb you just need common sense. If you stay under 12 psi run good gas and plugs an intercooler, retard the timing the N/A engine does fine. But hey the world hates poeple who are different so just keep doing your engine swaps.
-Matt |
Originally posted by mattrx7N/A Im talking from experience on this, I guess if you like to pop the clutch at 6000 you will break the tranny. And also its very easy to run a turbo with the carb you just need common sense. If you stay under 12 psi run good gas and plugs an intercooler, retard the timing the N/A engine does fine. But hey the world hates poeple who are different so just keep doing your engine swaps. -Matt |
Im still waiting on the turbo for my current car but as soon as its done ill post some pics, ill put them on my thread: Cheap and Fast , as soon as possible. You can read about my 87 N/A (soon to be turbo) there.
-Matt |
so any clutch and flywheel from any year will fit into my 87 GX tranny? i thought they were a diffrent size?
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nice job
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If anyone is looking for a new ported second gen engine for this type of swap, I am selling one. Check out my thread under second gen parts. I have all the accessories needed, including a hi-po turbo, trans, digital fuel injection or the factory system, racing beat down pipe and so on. Let me know as I will be somewhat flexible on the price since I won't start my next project until I sell this drivetrain. Still in the car so I can prove what condition it is in.
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Originally posted by GTR actually, theres things you have to consider mattrx7. when you boost a N/A, it's not really built that way. If you would want it to be reliable, you're gonna have to build up the motor to accept boost reliablity. so why not get a turbo motor that's already has all that... makes sense .. Can't u just run a bit lower boost to make up for the higher compression of an NA engine? |
The turbo engine has a lot of internal modifications to allow it to handle the boost and heat. I would never suggest running jmore than five pounds on a NA engine block.
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5 pounds ain't much
what boost does a stock T2 run at? |
a stock TII runs about 8 lbs, with a good downpipe and exhaust that jumps up to 9-10 lbs. I ran mine as high as 14 lbs. You can really feel the 10 pounds forcing you into your seat.
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thanks
:D |
I'd like to know It a Turbo II Motor and Tranny will bolt directly to my GXL LSD Differential (of the same year).
I know the na Tranny cannot sustain the abuse the Turbo Motor dishes out but what about the na LSD as opposed to the Turbo Differential? Would It be recommended to swap out the na one to that of a Turbo one? *edit* I'm aware the Drive Shafts have to be replace aswell.:) |
the tranny will not last, but the rear dif should be ok up to 250 hp or so. Besides that it is almost a drop in change
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650 cfm #4011 holley marine, Racing beat TII intake manifold (No more waiting for Jay-Tech RIP) turbonetics pressurizer, aeromotive carburator fpr, a good fuel pump, TII turbocharger and exhaust manifold, blow off valve, early distribuitor, already existing trailing coils, some fittings, steel braided fuel lines and someone who can do the settings right.
Holley Marine 650 cfm: About $250.00 Aeromotive fpr: $150.00 Racing Beat Intake Manifold for TII: I got for $210.00 Braided lines: Depending on where you buy the price is per-foot Fuel pump: I got a Walbro: $110.00 TII Turbo: I got for $150.00 I had the blow-off Turbonetics pressurizer: $75.00 Fittings: $45.00 Distribuitor: $75.00 Settings: Go figure someone on your are who can do them (I got somebody) Have fun!!! |
@ angel guard
no offense or anything but haven't u blown a handlful of engines? Does it have anything to do with have a carb instead of EFI? |
Go to my site.
http://members.rogers.com/rtsracing/intro.htm has some before and after pics of my conversion. |
well guys i have successfully done the swap that kabooski is talking about. and there is one very important aspect that everyone is forgeting. there are three major plugs inder the passengers side dash that will not mate between the 86-88 and the 89-91 harness and a few extra wires that need to be wired into the dash if anyone needs help with this email me (when u get to this point) and i will help you
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thanks.. I have been looking for a write up like this for months now. finially i can start planning.....
dave |
Originally posted by Mykl Oh, I have a recommendation. I've not ever pulled an engine from an RX-7, but I would think that it would be much much easier to pull the engine and transmission both at the same time rather than trying to line the engine up with a transmission that's resting on a jack when you try to reinstall the engine. I'm sure it would take a bit of maneuvering to get them both in and out at the same time, but overall I would think that it would make installation of the engine easier. What are your thoughts on this? Do you think it would make it easier or more difficult? |
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