Fully Blown Electric Auxilliary Port Activation...
 

for my s4. I am currently using a EGR Solenoid with a RPM Switch. Worked out beautifully allowing the sleeves and PR Inserts to do there job. I will be removing my Air Pump and ACV (3yrs old, now for sale) and will rely on my 12vAir Compressor. Will post my results.

http://www.mmpar.com/images/MVC-455S.JPG

i think i sent u a pm about this. let me know if u got it.

I finally got It yesterday. It seems the seller thinks Toronto Is further than It really Is.:confused:

Just some thoughts. Is that compressor rated for constant use? It looks like the ones used for air horns, which only run for short periods. I presume you intend to run the pump constantly and open the solenoid valve at a set rpm. That means the pump will spend most of it's time pressurising the line with no flow. This will quickly heat the compressor up, and might cause premature failure.
Maybe you could do away with the solenoid valve altogether, and use the rpm switch to operate the pump via a relay. This means the pump would only operate when the ports were required to be opened. Those compressors reach full pressure very quickly (air horns sound almost instantly), so with a bit of tuning with the rpm switch, you should be able to get this running as good as (or better than) the stock set-up, plus there'd be less risk of overheating the compressor.
Like I said, just thinking. Give it a go and let us know how it goes! :D

And a blowoff valve for the excess pressure. Mine open at 4.5 PSI.

Good point, about these pumps rated for constant use. I was messing around with It yesterday and I was Impressed with how loud and how quickly the pump warmed up. My guess Is It Is not rated for constant use. As OC will agree with me on this, Is It Is quite noisy aswell. I was going to reconstruct my electronic Auxilliary Port set up In the fashion you just described, mostly due to the above discovered points.

Will keep you guys posted.

If you only activate the pump when required, I doubt you'll hear it over the wailing NA exhaust! :D

FYI, in stock form, the auxillary ports open at ~3300rpm. That'd be a good place to start with the rpm switch.
If you have access to a dyno, do one power run with the ports closed and one with them open. Where the lines cross, that's the ideal port opening point. ;)

With the compressor putting out 7-8 psi, I hardly think they will "begin to open". More like snap wide open.:D

I'm probably going to set them to open at 3600-3800rpm. Although this a premature guess. Again, I'll see how It pulls. I do plan on dynoing my car to tune the many added mods i recently did but In particular my S-AFC.

Also, I've been told that the ports start rotating at 3800rpm not 3300. Or Is It when they are fully open.:confused:

I believe 3300rpm is when the solenoid on the S5 system opens. Since air pump pressure rises with engine rpm, it would make sense that the ports would open as the rpm rises. Ideally you wouldn't want the ports to snap open, because the dramatic change in airflow characteristics could cause the engine to hiccup slightly. Taking ~500rpm to open would smooth that out.
The S4 system uses exhaust backpressure, which also rises with rpm, so the the ports would definitely open over a short period of time, not instantly. I assume Mazda would design this feature into the S5's system.
If your pump does cause the ports to snap open fast enough for you to feel the engine stumble, try lowering the pressure with an adjustable bleed valve in the line. :)

I've been using that setup for the past 3 weeks and it's been simply awesome! Of course having an S5 makes it easier. Like NZ saids, I can barely hear the compressor running when I'm flooring it; otherwise it's freaking loud(in test mode). I also think the quick snap is a good thing as I feel the aux port and vdi kicking in, yet it was never hesistating one bit. It has that turbo charge effect, one at 3800rpm and another at 5200rpm, woohoo!

Yeah, about that air pump, you might want to hound the J yards and see about getting one off a Cadaliac for thier air ride suspention. Or, if you are lucky enough to find a vette (not likely) you can get one of their electric air pumps.

Anyone know what other cars came with an electric air pump stock?

ahh it looks as if he already has a compressor........

HAHAHAHAHHAHAHAHAHA arnt we so observant!.. um.. NO. his compressor, if you can read, will probably over heat, so i told him where to get one that will better suit his needs....

dear sir,
its just the internet, don't get so excited
thanks

oh and from the sounds of things he is going to be running it intermittently so it only runs when the ports have to be opened and not constantly

Of course, when driving hard, the ports are open constantly, so the pump will be on constantly. At least, every winding road I've driven has inspired prolonged periods of 4k+ rpm driving.

At first I was going to have the Air Compressor running when the car was going to. That would mean all day and all night as long as the Ignition was "ON".

However, a couple of things along the way. It's loud! As NZConvertible pointed out, Is to check If It Is rated for constant use. Although the seller has not gotten back to me (asshole) and their Is no make on the the Compressor, I believe that It Isn't rated for constant use. Also, It heats up rather quick.

No big deal. That just means I have to reconfigurate my Auxilliary ssystem to have the Compressor work when needed. Sounds good. The only thing Is the Compressor pumps out 7-8psi, which Is lokely to snap open the Ports violently.

Again, I have not set It up yet. But If It turns out I get violent jerks, I'll just get a bleed valve.

I'm afraid my engine may feel like an Epolectic Bull with this much pressure opening my Auxilliary Ports. Again, time will tell...

mmmaannn who the FFUUCCKK do you think you are, calling me GOD DAMN FUCKING "SIR"?!?!?!?! what are you? some sort of smart ass punk? boy, ill run you over with my steam roller, dont think i dont have one. you hear that shit? thats my steam roller sucka! its comin' to get your punk ass bbiiooottcchh... and trust me, i shift MaD qUIk yO!!!!!!!! on that thing too man.. ill run you down foo'!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


































JK! haha, im not pissed man, i was never pissed, it just seemed that you tried to make me feel stupid so i just dicked around. No hard feelings. we shoud :weed: out and be freinds.

You won't even feel them opening. I have a series four. I use a solenoid out of the wrecking yard and pressure taken directly from the rear of the airpump to open them. They open in a millisecond. I use the 3800 signal to the relief solenoid to activate the solenoid. You won't feel squat when they open.

Iv got the same pump that silverrotor has, I havent hooked up mine yet mostly becuase my local autoparts store are out of frickin hose! My plan was to hook up a rpm switch to it and go from there. If it breaks, so what. I lost a few bucks. these things are cheap.
It seems that the actuators open up around 5000rpm on my S5, and you can actually hear the pressure that opens them bleed off. If feels like they are opening way to late. I want to use this on all the actuators. 5th and 6th ports + VDI.

Yup, I never ever felt it open via the air pump but it is now very noticeable using the air compressor.

For what its worth....the 89 manual, online, pages FI 81 and FI 71, say the sixport solenoid is open at 3800 and closed below that.

EBAY... you can feel them come on line. Good for you. I can't. I admit to not being too sensitive about things like that. The way I have it rigged on my 87 n/a, anytime I hit 3500rpm(even in the driveway), the actuators go fully open due to the Relief solenoid getting a signal at that rpm.

On a series four(wifes stock car), I've ridden around with a spare lower intake manifold in the front seat, with its vac(pressure) hose tee'd into the one on the engines lower intake manifold. While driving, I saw the actuators begin to open around 3500 and would finally fully open around 5000. That was a completly stock car.

Any time, just come on down to NOLA and we'll light one up.

So what's your point? that I'm bypassing the factory settings?
Like I mentioned up in the beginning of this thread, I notice, a however slight, supercharging effect at around 3800 when the aux ports kick in and around 5200rpm when the vdi kick in. Prior to that, the airpump didn't seem to do shit for me. I was going to pull the intake to see if I put those damn pineapple sleeves wrong.
FYI, I'm using all stock factory electronic solenoids and settings. The only difference is scrapping the airpump for a $23 air compressor and a 30amp radio shack relay.

Good for me? Heck yeah, I can feel it now so it's good to know that.

No EBAY. I just mentioned the manual because somewhere near the top of this thread someone mused what the opening of the actuators was. Had nadda to do with what you wrote. Just some point of reference for those that want to know when the series five open.

Oh my bad...thought I wanna share my experience and help out the peeps wanting to do this mod. hey who knows, the motor will burn out one of these days and that's when a honduh will show me up.:eek:

Oops, my bad! That'll teach me not to rely on my memory when my S5 FSM is not close by! :D You've gotta be the only person here who actually tests this sort of stuff out. You da man! ;)
It makes more sense that Mazda would engineer the 6PI system to gradually open, eliminating any rapid changes in port velocity that could affect the engines smoothness (manufacturers things like that remember).

[QUOTE]Originally posted by HAILERS
[B]For what its worth....the 89 manual, online, pages FI 81 and FI 71, say the sixport solenoid is open at 3800 and closed below that.


I don't remember seeing that In the S4 manual. Can the same be said about the s4?

I've never seen a reference in the series four manual about when they open. Since the series five uses a solenoid, they make a remark about when the solenoid opens and is closed.

That said, I'm using, on a series four, a solenoid that is supplied from the same point (as best I can tell from the series five manual) as the series five. Mine flip open instantly when the solenoid is opened. There might be a difference in the spring in the actuators i.e series four vs series five. Maybe a stiffer spring in the series five??? Maybe not

Again, I'm not knocking anybodys method of opening the things in any manner. Never entered my mind. Right now I'm making a home made, rpm activated switching device designed by ZUB. Gonna use it to open my ports at any darn rpm I desire. The 3800 rpm signal for the Relief solenoid isn't as reliable as I previously thought. Theres times it comes on prior to 3800. I think its load related combined with rpm. Just rambling.

I'm still debating on when I'm going to have my Auxilliary Ports open. Perhaps I'm looking to hard Into the fact that the Air Compressor cranks out 7-8psi. I'll have to see you It responds to my custom setup.

Homade RPM switch. Sound interesting. Got details?

I had thought the Relief soleniod had more variables controling it than RPM. It makes me wonder what that does to the people using the air that vents from the ACV.

While on the topic. Where does the series 5 take the air from the air pump to route to the 6port actuators? I know it goes from the airpump to the solenoid but where does the line attach to? Is there an attachement in the hose to the ACV or is there a line out of the ACV or Intake manifold

FWIW, I hooked up the Air Compressor today along with my RPM Switch. Man does that Air Compressor belch out some air! I have so It Is activated around 3850 rpm. I did It this way to work around the random hesitation I get from time to time. (not dealing with the new electric setup but rather with the Infamous 3800 hesitation). The Auxilliary ports open Instantaniously creating a mild supercharging effect with no hiccups or harsh hesitations. I believe the PR Inserts have alot to do with this.

Doing this I eliminated the Air Pump, Air Control Valve and Split Air Pipe. My only dillema Is finding the optimum rpm setting to run my new set up.

Well done! Glad it all worked out so well. :p:

For what its worth......I put a Autometer boost gauge (the sensing line), in the hose b/t the airpump and the acv. I never ever saw more than 4 to 4 1/2 psi. Full throttle to idle, no more than the above. Fifteen year old airpump, but I don't think it did any better when new.

Curious about where SilverRotor got his rpm switch . Part number etc, and approx price. Using it with a aftermarket ignition or the stock?

I got It from Summitracing, summit part number #SUM-830449, $45. Great little Black box. I set the dip switches to 3800. Although that wasn't the output It was giving me (I guess due to Piston configuration). No big deal. The box also came with a "fine adjustment" phillips head screw, on the circuit board, that allowed me to rotate It to give me precise desired rpms. Worked out beautifully.:)

Oh, you could barely hear the Air Compressor over my whailing exhaust as NZ suggested:D . I have It wedged b'n the Charcoal Canister and the sidewall fender.

silverrotor I bought the same switch. I'm having problems. I connected it to the bullet connector at the trail coil and then the bullet connector at the lead coil. Can't get it to come on except at 50000 rpm. Lowest setting on the dip switch is 2000 and thats where I have mine set. Where did you connect your white wire?????

EDIT: Above, I'm trying to say I tried both coil assy, one at a time. Not both at the same time.

I hooked up my White wire to the Leading Coil Pack Bullet Connector. Be sure to take advantage of the fine tuning screw aswell as this will defineltaly help.

Oops, I'm wrong. Shoot me.:D I too have It set on the lowest setting @ 2000 w/ the help of the screw I keep mentioning.

BTW, why Is It suggested to use a relay In conjunction w/ the Air Compressor and RPM Switch?

If you hook it up to the leading coil, you need to set it to 8-cyl. If you hook it up to the trailing coil, you need to set it to 4-cyl. Either way should give you correct results.

Yea, but this RPM Switch Is not configurated that way. It's simply set the Dip Switches and go!

http://homepage.mac.com/carldavis/in...g/p6300002.jpg

Yo. I have the same unit. I had to use the lead coil assy bullet to make it work at the lowest setting. I'll do the fine adjust tomorrow and maybe I can get it to go down lower than 5000 for the trip. I use the yellow wire to lite a LED inside the car so I could tell if the darn thing was working. I took a look at the IC inside the box. The long black one. Its a LM2074 I believe, the same type I was thinking about using on a home made switch. Its for frequency sensing.

Just a side note on my use of the Relief solenoids 3800 rpm signal to switch the solenoid for the aux actuators. It works right about 85 percent of the time. The times it does not work, is when the car is cold and other times at cruise. Such as driving at 70mph in fifth gear. Car is at 3000 rpm, but the solenoid has the actuators open, when they should be shut.It switches to open the actuators when they should not really be open. But just driving around town, on the whole they open at 3800 and close below.

Thanks for the reply. I was wondering about where I might be going wrong. And for anybody elses info, that rpm switch from Summit has no adjustment for four, six or twelve cylinder cars. The advertisement should have stated that it was for a 8?????? cylinder only.

EDIT: On the *why a relay*? I'm just guessing, but maybe they don't think their unit should be used as a grounding path. Maybe too much current. I dunno. I'm using it with a spare solenoid off a RX. The type that looks like the orange solenoid for the fpr. Its a 69ohm outfit. Maybe I should think about using a cheap auto relay instead, and then use the relay to operate the RX solenoid.

Keep us updated. So the relay Is used as a precaution then?

On my S5, I use a 30amp relay (ground triggered by the aux port solenoid) to activate the 12v air compressor.

Heck yes! The small pot under the cover, which faces the wall and can't be turned by a screwdriver due to no room to access it, did the job. Had to drill a hole thru the side so I could put a screwdriver on it. Drill bit hit the pot, The pot laid over facing straight up. The center pin came unsoldered. Had to resolder, but screwing it made a major difference and I decided to set my solenoid to go off at four grand. I'm not using a relay. Ain't gonna use a relay. May pay for it someday, who knows.

I've got too many other things to do right now, but I suspect the unit isn't being calibrated at the factory properly. I would have thought the small pot would only make a fifty rpm change. Wrong again. Anyway, if it fails, I've got a LED coming off it going to the dash, so if that ceases to function I'll know the aux ports are not working.

Yes, I'm just guessing, but I think their recommendation for using a relay is to protect their unit. Sorry world, I'll take my chances.

AS a side note, ZUB, is making a home made rpm switching device out of readily available parts from the electonic stores such as JAMECO. I plan on tossing the Summit unit and using the homemade device. Like homemade stuff. More of an adventure.

Haha, you are quite the tinkerer.:D Godd luck and let us know how It turns out!

Hailers///After rereading your last post, I'm wondering howcome you are drilling to get to the adjustment screw. With the cover off, that screw Is very accessable. I dunno know, am I missing something?

Perhaps this pic could simplify how I In corporated the use of a relay In my Fully Blown Electric Auxilliary Ports project.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/attach...postid=1703118

Pic courtesy of NZConvertible

Note! A few changes must be made If you are to follow this schematic.

-Substitute the Temp Switch with the RPM Switch

-Substitute the Fan Motor with the Air Compressor

-Under 87 Terminal, positive charge It rather than ground It. I wired It directly to the Battery.

SILVERROTOR......The little tiny trim pot on mine, faced the wall of the case, whereas it should have been facing straight up in you face when you take the top off. I could have tried to bend it over to face straight up, but I was sure it would have broken off at the base. So I thought I'd just drill a 3/16 hole in the side of the box and stick a screwdriver thru the hole to do the adjustment. Well I wasn't as skilled as I thought, and pushed the drill thru to hit the trim pot, which in turn bent it over. To the straight up position! of all things. But the center conductor pulled out of its hole in the pcb, and I had to resolder it (if it was ever really soldered). Was your trim pot facing you as you opened the case????? Real small pot on mine. About 3/16 square.

Yea, It was facing me right on, square In the face. Begging me to adjust, to better suit the RPM's needed to zero In my Auxilliary Ports. Without It, the RPM Switch Is no good (RPM's were way too high).

A good point that NZ brought up, Is to do 2 runs. One with Ports wide open and the other closed. Compare graphs and where the 2 lines Intersect, would be a good starting point to have them "permently" open.

Considering my na Is severly modded, I don't think the Mazda settings, on the opening/closing of the Auxilliary Ports,will compliment maximum efficiency of this feature found In na's. However, a Dyno will prove valid. I'll keep you guys posted...

I extracted an Idea from you Hailers. I have a LED Light tapped Into the cock pit that I wired up to the Ground Wire of the RPM Switch. By doing this, I am constantly tuned In to the set up. So 3850rpm (at current) the light goes off and so does my car!

Perhaps this Is an overkill, considering I would feel the sleeves rotating rather than depending on the light to go off. But than again, I'm not always flooring It. I think this has to do with my multiple Gauges I just Installed. More like a Gauge fetish.:D