who's doing 3rotor conversions?
 

just wanted to start a thread to know who is activly working on a 20b project? finished cars count. i just wanted to make a list since the 20b community is seeming to grow ever so slightly. so post if ya got one, and let us know how far along you are.

about me-> progress: i basically am at the early stages of my 20bFD conversion, have the 20b pulled from the front clip, have many parts needed for the install, but i have to work on the FD's engine bay from a previous owners engine fire before i can move forward. also i had a few set backs for the interior (had to rip it all out) and i made a few cosmetic decitions so that is taking a bunch of my time right now as well. i think im going to leave the interior out untill i get this thing running.

current goals: get the 20b mounted in the car! im attempting to use the 20b ecu (for starters...then move on to the haltech), but the wiring is a nightmare, and i already can think of some problems (such as how to run the 2 FD fans without the FD ecu)... i may give up and just go directly for the haltech, but that will alter my plan of attack. -heath

I am with my FD. My status:

Have the engine, have the subframe, have the chassis, have a lot of misc parts. Still need to buy a Haltech E11k ECU, a complete ignition system and a whole lot of smaller parts. I'm in the process of rebuilding and porting the engine, and I'm hoping to have it all done by mid July, though I'm skeptical of that because right now I still need another $3,000. AT LEAST. The total cost right now is hovering around $12k

I have 20B #756. I worked on it a little today to get it ready to test fire soon. I'll try to get an audio clip.

I'm doing one. It is on hold right now so I can finnish up my vert project which is nearing completion and can seen here https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=292442

The 20b car's suspension and rearend are done along with the widebody install. Still need to mate the fc2000 front end to it. The engine was built by Pineapple Racing and is a dry sumped large steet ported b-series engine with ceramic seals to name the main stuff. It has been located down 1-3/4" and back 4" from original TII location. Dry sump system plumbing is almost done with dual oil coolers. Have a bunch of other parts laying around that I need to install once the ball gets rolling on it again. Still need way to much to list as of now....

count me in w/ B985 going into my M1 miata. Engine bay empty and motor ready to drop in on or about 4/15

ooohhhh 3rotor miata??? i want pictures!! tell me more about your planned setup! ive been wanting to do a 13b or 7b miata for some time now. i have a miata as a daily driver...they are really fun!

I have a D133 engine. I'm waiting to buy Microtech's latests version ecu the LT12S. I only need a light weight flywheel to get mine installed and a few other minor things. Untill then I will be doing some efficiancy experimenting on the 13b while its still running great. I will be installing a crap load of gauges and water injection on my stock car to get a baseline on how well everything runs. Then I will install some of my custom 20b components to see how well that set-up improves the stock numbers. Hopefull the engine will go in this summer.

fi addict, did you get BanzaiToyota's engine?

Rotormotor, uata (you ought to) do a two rotor engine in your Miata. I'd like to put a 6.54B in something small.

t-von, I'm doing almost exactly what you're doing. I'm setting up my car with stuff that will benefit both a 13B and a 20B. I recently rebuilt a 13B and it's in the engine bay. After I get a baseline (seat of the pants) with the 13B, I'll be able to feel what a 20B can do. I've just gotta get it running first.

jeff20b, i wasnt planning on doing anything with the daily driver (except maybe adding a turbo)... but i have been thinking about a rotary miata for some time now! i believe pettit did a single rotor engine at some point.... with a small turbo and proper tuning (im speculating) you should be able to hit 180HP or so...and it would be light as all hell.

put a one rotor in a 67 cooper. 6.54b sounds so sweet. .65T and i guess you might be able to make some power out of it too :) OMG if you could make say 150hp out of it and 75ft/lbs even it could be a good swap for a miata engine
I didnt get banzai's engine.
pics will come soon! i had some up of the rear already. Im still getting parts together and finalizing the turbo choice.

Nope, I did :p: Its D659

I have my motor mount'd in the car and to the tranny/20b #48/ that's right #0-4-8/ as I type manifold, turbo, DP, and Intercooler Piping being fab'd/ lack clutch, flywheel and Halteck, hope to have car running by September

sorry to get off topic but would you by any chance have an audio clip of a single rotor?? i have always wanted to hear one...

back on topic: i was assuming the miata was going to be a 20b NA! i had no idea you were putting a turbo on!!!! you will need some major chassis bracing and one hell of a roll bar :wink: .... people on this forum usuallys bash on miatas, obviously they have never driven one. -heath

I'm putting a 20B into a Porsche 914. See Pictures Below:

http://members.shaw.ca/erikdumas/914...ody%20side.jpg

http://members.shaw.ca/erikdumas/914...bottle%202.jpg

It weighs 1400 lbs right now without an engine. I hope to stay under 2000 lbs when it's all done.

8 or 10pt cage going in the miata
and when driving it i dont think i could handle over 450rwhp. I also have never heard a single rotor but in thinking about it im sure a 12000rpm redline wouldnt be out of the question. Port the hell out of a single rotor and pop a to4 on it :)
***someone do it! PLEASE***
the cooper is 1100lbs? and with a single rotor WOW could it get any lighter?

Badass!

I'm going to extend port a single rotor 13B. I'm also going to run 0/180 degree leading sparks so it'll sound less like put-put-put if you know what I mean.

Speaking of that, I'm curious what my 20B will sound like with Rotary engineering glasspacks. They're almost 15 years old, but they still sound fine. This still have the glass stuff in them too. Amazing.

20b fd
status :engine in car , car starts and runs , only thing left to do now is i/c piping and a/c lines , currently busy with a/c lines , i/c piping is supposed to be done by the end off this week .....we will see
got large single turbo (t76) full street port , and doweled engine , i will run stock injectors now but plans are to upgrade injectors and fuel pump later and add nos
ultimate goal is to run 25psi plus nos then dyno the thing .....i know it will start breaking parts like crazy.......but should be pretty damn fun to drive

Since you bought it up - what are you doing to keep a/c? My plan was just to mount the condensor horotizontally (tells you where my priorities are...) and run new lines.

I have mine mounted to the front of the radiator, using a transmission cooler mounting kit.

What did you do for the lines?

My car didn't need converting. It came with a 20B engine from the factory........:D

we are doing a 20B into 1st gen. Will be running a 4/71 supercharger (may go to 6/71 yet) injectred and intercooled. Just need a few more parts (expensive ones unfortunately) beofr we pull th emotor from my JC Cosmo.

i always wanted to put a 3 or 4 rotor into a 944 but then i rember the rx7 beat back the 944 in everything except power so i guess not ......only if i had the mulas ill put a 4 rotor into a ferrari

i modified the existing lines ,and jhonny if you mount the intercooler horizontally , if you have a fan on it ,it will work , i used to have that setup on my 2-rotor

are you talking about putting a radiator fan on your FMIC? i wonder how that would affect air flow... im not sure ive heard of people doing this for FMIC's ....

I used the stock lines also, just re-routed them. Fairly easy.

I'm talking about mounting the condensor horizontally, so that it dosen't heat up / distrupt the airflow going to the radiator. I did this a while ago in an earlier car with good success.

sorry about that , what i meant is : make shure its in the fans path (airflow)
i bought the apexi front mount i/c kit and the kit actually makes you lay down the condensor horizontally , but it makes kind of a triangular shape whith the radiator and intercooler(when viewed from the side)...sorry kind of hard to explain verbally, anyway it should work , or at least ...it worked for me!

i wonder if anyone has tried a fan attached to the IC? i think it would be an interesting idea, and would help airflow for the radiator. as far as a fmic goes... all the 3rd gen guys just stand EVERYTHING up in a row. i havent heard of having any problems w/ this method, as long as you use an upgraded radiator. im pretty worried about heat myself (with the 20b in the packed FD bay)... id like to increase the airflow somehow, but am pretty opposed to a vented hood. someone (cant remember their name) made piping from inside the engine bay to the oil cooler ducts (the holes on the sides of the car behind the front wheels).... apparantly when the car gets moving it creates a pressure difference between the engine bay and the vent holes... therefore making a vacuum and SUCKING heat from the engine bay. dont know if it works, but that is one thought to cool these ovens down :wink: -heath

Using fans for intercoolers has been around for a while, but its really only necessary in situations where heat soak due to low vehicle speeds is a problem (like with a stock mount IC). That way, just like with the radiator, you can keep it cool while you're in traffic, etc. Otherwise it doesn’t do much put potentially slightly disrupt airflow and add unnecessary complexity to the system.

My original plan was to do a sort of over-lapping V-mount setup, but once I tried fitting everything in there I quickly realized that was a bad (or impossible) idea. So now I'm using a 99' Front end and its main opening feeds the front mount intercooler (I built if off a Griffin core and its sitting vertically), and then a PWR Radiator, which is also vertical. The A/C condenser is going to sit horizontally below them. I've got steel ducting going from the bumper to the FMIC, and from the FMIC to the radiator to keep everything sealed on both sides and the top and bottom. I've also got ducting from below the FMIC that’s going to feed the condenser and the radiator, bypassing the FMIC. Kind of hard to explain, but I'll take some pictures in a few weeks when I'm back home.

I was debating with myself about weather or not I want to keep A/C and P/S, as I don't have them in my truck or Civic and I don't really miss them that much. However, one of you guys said in a post a while back that while its cool to have a super quick car that can shine on the track, its even cooler to have a super quick car that can shine on the track and still keep you fine and comfortable on the way home. That to me pretty much sums up what I want to get out of this how endeavor.

hey man its one thing to go fast , and its another to go fast in style ,... right??!!

[in cool voice] Oh yeah....

could a 20b be put in a 1st gen? all work done by me and friends for 10k and what all would i need to do the swap


not plannin on running ne a/c or ne of that stuff it is all commin off thats what windows are for in the summer time and jeeps in the winter

............WHY WHY WHYYYYY!!!!!!!!...........search please

Bro i just finish with my 20b 1st gen conversion and it cost me only $3000 total...
well i called up Nopi and order there 20b mount kit $250,12a tranny,12a clutch & flywheel & the most expensive part was the motor $1200 and painless 20b wiring harness from summit racing$300....i used the painless wiring kit and my friend Dave at Mazdatrix reworked a 93 rx7 ECU to plug right into the painless harness.....the onlything left is to tune the timming & fix that hole in the fuel map and she'll run 9's....good luck with that project.....call nopi and see what they say, if they cant help u let me know i'll get all the parts for u....peace
http://hometown.aol.com/trini2dmax/images/dvc00337.jpg

Summit Racing part number?


Uh, all the other things sounded fishy, but this is total bullshit.


-Ted

:bsflag:

holy smokes are u guys foreal?? all that BS was ment for the new guy to see if he would really call summit & nopi:D .....hey Ted call summit and ask them for the painless wiring harness for a mazda 20b, i'm sure the rest of the guys wanna know what summit told u:D

hehehehehehehe

to make it easy i went to painless's website and the have 8 and 12 circuit wireing harness's that were universal

I just got hold of my 20b front cut. my busted 13brew is sitting on the garage floor looking sorry for itself!

I'll probably carry over the turbo from my 13B so my setup will be something like - hks t04r, 850/1600 injectors, microtech or similar ecu, water injection etc.

I got a lot of work ahead of me, wish me luck! :)

You're gonna need it! :)

I am in the middle of a rather huge 20B project with a 93 CYM with 19k orig miles. I have about 85% of the parts to complete the project but have only around 20% of the work completed. I am dropping off the motor this weekend to get built and the car is getting a full cage as we speek. I am going for as close to 1000hp on high boost with race fuel as i can get. (if i have to, i will spray it)

Here is a brief description of items i have, some installed and the rest waiting.

20b (race port, pinned, all new 13b housings)
petit subframe
custom brembo 14" front and 12.9" rear brake kit
mazda 929 master cyl
GFG 19x8.5 & 19x10 3-piece wheels
toyo proxy t1s 275-30 & 235/35 19" tires
innovative gt80r bb turbo
indy waste gate
turbonetics godzilla bov
custom sheetmetal upper intake
90mm throttle body
full multi port nitrous system (6-injectors)
intercooler spray kit (co2 or nitrous)
dei fuel cooler block
1700cc and 850cc injectors
custom fuel rails
custom made alum fuel tank (centered for dual exhaust)
aeromotive complete fuel system with 11104 pump
electronic fuel pump controller
6- msd ignition coils with 3-ignition boxes on leadings
msd 31239 pro wire set
kazz diff with stock gears
rp chromoly axles
heat treated cv's
alum drive shaft with oversized u-joints
jic flta-2 coil over suspension
chromoly trail arms and toe links
mazda speed motor mounts
321 stainless cusotm header
4" down pipe and exhaust
dual 3" thermal mufflers
apexi super avc boost controller
microtech ltx12 engine management with wide band
in car wide band lamda display
race logic traction control
auto meter full gauge set with custom gauge console
dual yellow top optima batteries
99 spec tail lights
stainless door sills
momo steering wheel, shifter and boot
hurst roll control line lock
lakewood drive shaft loop
RCI 5-point harnesses
rear mounted battery disconect switch and charge term.
petit diff mounts
susp techniques front sway bar
original RE sleek light kit
diamond audio dual 5" m6 components in each door
3-diamond audio d5 amplifiers
diamond m6 12" sub
diamond audio 4" m6 rear comp set
full weld in roll cage
about 3000 worth of mazda oe parts to make 100%
i am sure i missed plenty but that is the most of it.



A few things i still have to get to complet the project

front bumper
front mount ic
hood
wing
radiator
straight cut trans gears
carbon carbon twin plate clutch kit
bride racing bucket seats
cd-radio or video screen
feed carbon side skirts
set of drag wheels
steel bell housing
trans blanket
lots and lots of work
lots of tuning time

hoping to be running in 2-3 months!

dp

^ All that and you're going to run those little tires. There must be room in your rather large budget for a widebody kit and 335's that your going to need.

i like the look of the 3rd gen. There is only one wide body that i did consider that was built by RE Amemiya but they quit making it. SP Engineering used it on an orange car they built years ago. I don't like the look of any of the new style wide body kits. I am worried about traction, that is why i am going to try to install the race logic traction control. I just hope it works! Full custom fiberglassed stereo install should add some weight in the rear to help out a little.

i had the kazz setup from rotary performance so that it does not pop and is not chunky. Dont ask me how but chris said it would work as well without sacrificing much of the limited slip characterisics at all. wine would come from gear mesh, not a diff!

You hit it on the head though, the car is mostly bling since it is primarily to be used as a show car for our performance shop. hence the 19" chrome wheels! I would much rather have a set of 18's.

I am running 235/35 up front with 8.5" rims in hopes of not rubbing the inner fender wells, as well as having coil overs to keep the suspension stiff and at the right ride height. I had replaced the inner wells with new ones already since the car had the wrong combination of wheels on it already and they rubbed.

As far as the power levels go, you are right as well, i will tune it with 2 seperate maps. One at 10 psi with pump gas and the other for the ocasional dyno competition or drag race! I am sure it will never see more than 10psi on the street.

I would rather have to much power and de-tune than push it to the max!

Good luck with your project. Maybe the next project i start i will not have such high goals and just be happy with average!

I would love to see what you come up with for a dash when you are done. I was a little scared to go that far!

WOW gordon, havent seen you around in a LONG time.....nice to see ya man.

STEPHEN

awesome job.

were did you get them alum knobs from?

How in the heck did you get them seats to fit without rubbing. Please spare no details!

After seing them mirrors, i know why you understand! "bling"

I am going to make my own gauge cluster using the stock pod similar to what you did, however i am planning on lining up 3 gauges on either side surrounding the steering wheel and only install a spedo and a small gauge to either side of it in the original gauge spot. I am using a momo wheel which is a little smaller and it hides the view were the gauges are originally positioned.

I would love to show you my tach mount i made but can only email it to you since i have no way of hosting a picture. if you are interested.