Japan2LA, I dunno what your problem is. You need to check your attitude and start showing others some respect. I told you I had other things going on, but all you've been is pushy and disrespectful. We'll see how far that gets you, because I'm not going to oblige you in anything further.

To all others, as I mentioned, the e-shafts are stocked here in the US, and available if you're seriously interested.

Thanks,
~Ramy

Ramy, I am going to respond to THIS posting via PM when I get a chance to log on later today....

I've been in contact with Steve and he seems interested in producing his three rotor E-shafts. However, he is very busy at his shop, so he doesn't have much time to focus on this project. I'm going to speak with him in a few weeks about getting this up and running. Hopefully something will materialize and we can get some dates. The shaft will be pricey though, it will include the rear counter-weight and it may include bearings as well as machine work to the irons so it can be sold as a complete package deal.

I'll keep you guys informed as things progress.

The guys at MPS are considering doing a limited production run of their shafts. I can confirm that if the MPS shaft were sold, in addition to the high strength shaft and the centre and front lobes, it would include a taper spline high strength rear counterweight (no worries of shearing the OEM key), the center bearing (OEM style, not needle), as well as any machine work, oiling modifications, and installation of the centre bearing into your centre plate in-house at MPS.

If you are seriously interested in purchasing this setup, give Steve at call at his shop at 416-252-0866.

Please answer the Million Dollar question....

We're looking at about $6500 for the setup. This may seem steep at first, but remember that for our shafts we use only the highest grade materials, machining processes that meet the strictest tolerances, and a proprietary heat treatment process that gives our product the strength and quality unmatched by others.

Furthermore, consider the headache and costs involved in sourcing and purchasing the many now impossible-to-find 20B eccentric shafts and rotor housings you'll have to replace after you destroy them trying to make the kind of power that would have been possible with the MPS shaft right from the start - the "high" initial cost of our setup pales in comparison to the time and money spent rebuilding a high HP 20B.

As mentioned before, give the shop a call at 416-252-0866 if you are interested.

I am sure the parts are worth every penny...but that is a little too close to what a 4 rotor kit cost...

Thanks anyway...

True, but that's comparing apples to oranges. This product is for people who already have a 3 rotor setup and want to replace the weak link of the 3-rotor engine with something that can take whatever they can throw at it.

I am not sure if calling the OEm 20B e-shaft the "weak link" is very accurate... Plenty of 20B drag cars pushing 1000Hp and much much more on the OEM 20B e-shaft...

I am sure your e-shaft is better considering the OEM e-shaft was developed/Engineered many many years ago...

Anyway goodluck with your product..

Thanks.


Is there any interest in this? Feedback is appreciated.

I might have been your only interested buyer...

... in less then 24 hours, yes.

I'm interested, and i've sent an email to Steve expressing my interest:)

Cheers
Daniel

B6T can you PM me the shops email, I have a quote I need to get. Thanks!

20-b balanced rotating assemblies
 

I am in the process of putting a motor in an FD that was built by Gabby Skern with rotors clearanced and balanced by Roger Mandeville. I'll report on that in a couple of weaks. I want to have it broken in to take to Deals Gap to run the Tail of The Dragon RX-7 event in april.

I do know that one thing often overlooked is checking the E-shaft to make sure it is true just like is done for crankshafts in high performance reciprocating engines. I have read that there is a shop in California that does this. I have been told that many 20-b e-shafts out there are not as straight as they should be. Let's face it if you find one it is probably available because something caused the donor motor to come apart and there was some kind of trauma to the internals and that long shaft is very vulnerable. I that e-shaft isn't perfect nothing else that you do to the motor will matter.

I have a custom made peripheral port block that is produced by a company out of Australia. They make a 20b e-shaft which they machine out of a solid billet. It is pricey but I suspect that itis unequaled for quality. These guys are real gonzo engineers and their products are of unbelievable quality. I got this through Gabby. There is one of these making over 1400hp in Puerto Rico I am told. Mine just sits in my shop in its aluminum crate so I can get a woody every time that I just look at it.

I'm now in possession of a spare C-code OEM e-shaft if anyone is looking for one. PM me if interested.

Your shaft is most likely the Xtreme Rotaries shaft - this is the one from Australia. It's an excellent shaft. Gabby Skern has an excellent reputation and Roger Mandeville is one of the best so I think you are in good shape. Good luck getting it all together.

We haven't personally used the eccentric shaft you are referring to, so we can't comment on it's quality, but there have been comparisons made by people on this forum and in other places. If you look at the #34 post in this thread, you'll see a pictorial comparison between the shaft you have and the shaft we produce, if you do indeed have the Xtreme Rotaries/Precision Engineering shaft.

The major difference is that our shaft is a four-bearing, three-piece shaft, and the Xtreme Rotaries/Precision Engineering shaft is a (possibly enhanced, I don't know) version of the OEM shaft. Two totally different products, really. Our product requires an additional bearing machined and installed into the 50mm intermediate plate. The other shaft is a drop-in replacement of the OEM part. The difference in price between the two reflects this. In addition, our shaft is supplied with a chromoly rear counterweight that interfaces to the shaft with a tapered spline, that eliminates the key some guys have had problems stripping.

Our RX-7 here at the shop that is running our shaft frequently sees well over 10,000 RPM and high levels of boost, but the current fuel setup is limiting these numbers.

what kind of numbers does the orange fc put down B6T? also how much boost if u dont mind me asking?

Ramy how much are the stock e-shafts?

I'm not Ramy, but new e shafts are about $1,800 (from japan2la) and used ones go for $1,000 - $1,100.

How much is a new/used 80mm intermediate plate?

I'm trying to price out if it would be cheaper to build a 20b NA from parts using 13bre housings and s5 na rotors with all new seals/bearings/gaskets and a custom exhuast/intake manifold or to buy one, rebuild, and convert to na.

It is not cheaper to try and piece it toghether.. Buy a longblock and sell of the stuff you dont need.. Good used Thick plate and E-shaft alone will cost you close to 2500.00 if you can even find those parts used..

kk, thanks. I'll do a search on how much longblocks run for locally.

ok so just reading and killing time am i currectly understanding that u can build a 20b in two configurations, either with a skinny 50mm iron between #2 and #3 rotors or an 80mm one like i see on most 20b's (that ive looked at anyway)? im assuming too that the 50mm iron would be somthing you could source from a 13b rew or RE? cause i have an extra set of rew irons, and was told that the rew housings have bigger exaust ports anyway. once i get my single turbo ls2 done i really want to get a 20b rhd project going for a track/weekend car in an fd. so this thread sparked a little early research on my part. what would interest me in the future is if someone offered a 20b eshaft, lightweight rotors, and counterweight all balanced shipped as a package with whatever extra bearings (if 4 bearing shaft) needed. that way someone could take their iron to get machined if needed, and then they have all they key components to make a nice stout shortblock to handle some good power and rpm's. hopefully all that made sense, lol