Does anyone make a subframe setup that drops the engine and pushes it as far back as possible with no need to mess with the front suspension geometry? I was gonna do this custom but If i can just buy a bolt-on subframe, would be much better.

thewird

 

Im not aware of any that are "off the shelf", but I know Logan at DefinedAutoworks can help you out. Although using the factory UIM, even shortened Im not really sure you have more than an inch or 2 to go back before you run into other issues with the firewall. And then obviously you are pushing the trans back further, so you need to worry about shifter locations, etc. Im sure you realize this, .. but just saying. Logan is moving my 20B back slightly (about an inch and a half most likely) but this is only to try and help accommodate for my T5 transmission and try to get the shifter to line up as best we can.

 

I got something off the shelf - do you mean like this?

 

Yah something like that. I assume the hood closes? I'm planning to put a t56 magnum in it so I'll have to play with the shifter position anyway. Do you have any way of showing me how far forward the pulley sticks out? I have a tight 4" of clearance between my vmount and the water pump pulley bolts. Do you think it would fit with your setup and does it mess with the steering rack position?

An extra rotor housing and the 20b plate would need an extra 6.3" clearance, so lets say 6.5 inches to be safe. That means the engine would need to be moved back at least 2.5" inches for it to fit. Do you know how much yours is moved back?

thewird

 

Well look at it closer - most of everything is under the stock strut-brace - so yes, the hood would close just fine. I think I have 1" of clearance between the (top of) turbo and hood.
if ya look even closer, you'll see its a subframe I made from 4130 chromoly tubing.

to get the engine that close to the firewall, I cut 3" out of the PPF and driveshaft using a TII trans (the engine still hit the steering rack). My goal was to have the stock engine sitting under the brace without cutting any length off the intake.

For the record, all this crap in the mockup-photo fits with a shut/closed hood.

 

Could anything be done to the pan to avoid the steering rack? Or how did you solve the whole steering rack issue? I do road race my car so proper steering geometry is important to me.

Also, so you moved the engine back a full 3 inches? If yes, that would work for me.

thewird

 

You could have probably raised the engine to sit on top of it ...then push it all the way back.
mine is so far back that its a little tricky clearing the UIM from the firewall lip.. maybe thats something to avoid?

I will be building another subframe for a stock-ish FD soon. I'll see what it would look like to "shove all the back against the firewall" while "sitting on top of the rack".

 

there is one on the horizon

I'm currently working with a local company to get a proper mounting solution on the market.

 

Did this make it any further? I would really like to see my motor sit back that far. especially if we could put the steering rack back into the stock place.

motor and trans lowered and moved back + stock steering geometry FTW

 

I decided to just go with the defined kit. Simplest solution.

thewird