okay, here is the low down.. when i was doing my body swap i negleted to swap the harness as well.. a mistake.. so now i am runing with an 80 engine harness connected to a 79 engine bay harness. and since they donot match up, i have some missing connections.

i have the engine from the 79 lying around, so i still have that engine harness.

so here is the question. should i swap the engine harness, putting the one from the 79 12a on to my 13b, or should i get a wiring harness from an 80 and swap that into the engine bay? which do you think would be easier, and which more advantagous?

 

swap the engine harness, putting the one from the 79 12a on to the 13b

 

The wiring harnes for the motor is just about worthless, if you go emission less. But seeing your profile, your in the great state of the 'sniffer' So Id just got with the one the body harness mates to, the 79 one

 

emissions definatly suck. and my full racing beat exhaust does not help that much..

how hard is it to swap the engine harness?? is this going to be a pain in the *** since the engine is in (and not coming out anytime soon)?

 

Pretty Hard. Actually, its mostly annoying and time consuming, with scraped knuckles, etc.

Just take your time, label where everything came off from from the 79, take reference pics if possible for yourself. Maybe some color coding as well.

Then remove the '80 one off of the engine, trying not to tear or cut anything unnecessarily,

then transplant everything over, makeing sure that all the lables correspond to the part they attach to.

If you plan ahead instead of rushing through, you will be happy in the end that you mapped everything out.

 

i wounder how many of my problems the wiring harness will fix. my tac does not work. i have to stall the car to shut it off. none of the idiot lights work properly (in the gauge cluster).. damn my seven has some problems

 

Well on my 85, I know that the engine harness has nothing to do with the tach. Thats the wire off the trailing coil's negative...

The idiot lights are controlled by the little relay on the drivers side up front toward the firewall. It has 2 plugs going into it. Some times they say Choke and Check Relay. Crack it open, and spray the **** outta it with WD-40. Sometimes light cleaning the contact with a q-tip helps. Ive had to do this on both my 7's...

 

i will give that a try
my tac is controled by one of the coils, not sure if it is the leading or trailing though. unfortunitally, as far as i can tell, everything is hooked up to the coils so i donot really know why the tac does not work. the volt meter works fine (it is an 80 gauge cluster so the volt meter is part of the tac), and when the car is on the tac is usually stuck (or floating around) at 6-8k. no idea why.

i guess i was just hoping that the harness swap would be a magical fix.. probably not though.

 

Wildly inaccurate tachs are a faulty tach and nothing else. Replace it

 

it is not a falty tac (and i do want to replace it).. the tac worked fine in my 80. plus the origional tac that came with the body acted the same way after i did the transplant. origionally it sort of worked, just jumped around alot when the turn signals were on, or when it was idle...

the way it is now, it more or less is pegged out somewhere between 6 and 8k (i donot remember exactly) . does not move.

 

it is not a falty tac (and i do want to replace it).. the tac worked fine in my 80. plus the origional tac that came with the body acted the same way after i did the transplant. origionally it sort of worked, just jumped around alot when the turn signals were on, or when it was idle...

the way it is now, it more or less is pegged out somewhere between 6 and 8k (i donot remember exactly) . does not move.

 

well i have just been informed that my spare engine is gone (what the ****). so i no longer have that engine wiring harness that i was going to swap... bloody hell..

i also nolonger have a spare clutch slave cylinder incase mine is actually dead... this is not turning out to be a good day