Water, water! From where do you come?
 

So this is becoming more of an issue as the rainy season sets in and I'm betting y'all can guess what it is. This morning I had one of the worst instances of it so far:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...42c51255e2.jpg
That would be 100% Oregon rainwater... Anyway, over the past six months, I've replaced my exterior window seals and door weather strips; though it still seems like water is getting in near the front of the doors by the mirrors. The only place water is showing up is the footwells and the real issue (not to mention rust and carpet destruction) is that my defog can't keep up with all the moisture in the morning. What are some common spots that water slips in on these cars and how can I get to them to check and see if they're leaking? Also, if a couple folks wouldn't mind posting some photos of their door seals that would be well appreciated - I'm starting to wonder if they didn't form correctly when I installed them. The seals I bough were the "supersoft" or something like that from Rock Auto, and they supposedly carry a 15 year warranty that I might as well use if y'all think they're part of the problem.

The door hinges and front wiper cowl is where I'd look.

The air inlet for the blower motor likes to rot out and cause leaks. Its a raised square section with a metal screen. I've had a few rot out and cause leaks. Pull the wiper cowl and shine a light in there and check it for rust. That's where I would start if its only on the passenger side.

Next, I would check the sunroof drains and make sure they're clear and hooked up properly. I've seen them fall off and clogging can cause interior water issues. Rodents chewed the right rear drain tube on my Nordic Green RX-8 and the interior got very wet on the passenger side rear floorboard. I replaced the seats, headliner, and of course the chewed drain tube. Some things to consider.

You could also test each area using a garden hose. Dry everything up.

I'd pull the seat and the carpet up out of the way along with the computer in the passenger footwell. Maybe pull the passenger speaker cover. Have someone poke their head in that area while trying the water test.

So yesterday I did a little investigating. Figured out that the water I thought was coming from the door seal was actually some water is running down the inside of the driver's side A-pillar trim. Not sure where it's coming from yet, but it's nearly certain a hole up near the sunroof.

You mentioned the cowl, and I had checked it a while back when fixed my wipers, though there was no rust that I could see. From what I could tell it might or might not be leaking, although I have no way to see down on the passenger side as there is a brace that blocks access not to mention a nice mouse nest that I can't get reach to vacuum up. When I did my blower motor overhaul a couple months ago, I noticed that the intake bit had some rust around the outside edges. I just cleaned it up a little and gave it a coat of rust inhibitor and called it a day. I have noticed some water drips on the bottom of the blower motor, although if the factory design was literally a hole in the cowl (as I would assume most older cars have), how would that not leak water? Does the cowl have drains that can clog up?

As for testing with a hose, I had already done that although not thoroughly. Didn't dawn on me to remove the carpet and side panels on the passenger side - the drivers side's got all the electronics which deterred me from the concept originally. Thanks KC REPU for that advice; sometimes it's the simple things a person just doesn't think of :).

I cleaned the sunroof drain hoses out and did hose testing a while ago with no signs of leakage that I could find. Nonetheless, that may be the issue I'm having with the A-pillar leakage. Either that or there's a rust hole up top. I'll re-check all of this sometime this week if the rain lets up.

Could by any chance the windshield be letting water in? If so, where would it go - into the cowl or the pillars?

Thanks

It very well could be a "A" pillar behind the windshield. Pull the A pillar trim on the inside. Easy enough to test. Don't pull the windshield trim on the outside unless you have validated the window/seal is the issue. The exterior windshield trim clips will break.

​​​Well now I feel dumb. Looks like I didn't treat the blower intake area as I had thought I did... Here's the damage before further investigation:
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bcfc5deb95.jpg
Here's it after some jabbing, cleaning, and rust treatment:
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4dcd969de1.jpg
So many holes! Guess that answers the majority of my passenger side lake origin. I used some construction adhesive for the final patch along with some Plexi as reinforcement for the large holes. Here's the final product:
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2657114b82.jpg
Dang, I hate it when I didn't actually do something that I thought I did. At least it's fixed now, and It'll get tested this weekend with the forecasted rain.

Now then, not all the leaks are solved yet. I'm still getting water from inside both A-pillars. I looked at the sunroof area and I can't see any holes. Obviously there are some somewhere (perhaps the old and failing screw seals), but how do the mounts for the sunroof seal? They look like their just slots in the roof with hardware inside. Is there any seal inside of that that might have broken down? Is it worth taking them apart? I don't want to mess up a seal that I won't be able to replace or fix.

I'll be sure to update after we get some good rain whether or not the sealing worked.

Thanks

Dude, you need to move out of Oregon.

Everybody knows that in Oregon water is everywhere.

Do you have a sunroof? They are the first ones to leak.

After that I like the garden hose idea.

But I've gotta say, you do good work under the circumstances.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2657114b82.jpg

Is this view looking up under the dash with the blower motor assembly removed?

Makes me want to check that area on my car....

Thanks. I must say, it's not the most comfortable position to work in for a few hours. ;) The construction adhesive is what made it not too bad (that stuff is pretty handy), the worst was just cleaning and prepping it.

Yep, indeed it is. Also, removing the blower is pretty quick if you want to check yours. Just three 10mm nuts, the harness, and the main duct (depending on if you have AC; I don't). One is on the firewall and the other two are up top by the glove box and can be reached with an extension.

Glad you found the leak. That's an area I learned to suspect for leaks after spending hours tearing apart an 84 SE to find the leak. Its not fun to repair as the dash, wiring harness, and evaporator core and blower motor should be pulled to weld a new section in should you decide to go that route.

Well I guess it's 'bout time for an update. We got some good rain today and couple days back, and I am happy to say that we are nearly leak free. I believe I had said before that water was coming from the A-pillars and that then lead me to the sunroof as y'all suggested. And after some poking around...
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...933571005b.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4bf4a6cc4e.jpg

Sure as heck, more holes.

A quick rust treatment and patch job later:
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...65375da525.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9215e4a1bb.jpg
Now they sure aren't lookers, but this car is already fairly rough (looking to do a full body resto further down the road). Side note, I again used plexi for the larger holes. For the time being the patches will do the job, and honestly, if someone can look through the tinted glass sunroof and spot those, props to them. And of course you'll see a little through the panel gap, but hey, function over form (for now at least) ;).
Now the leak report is quite good. No noticeable leaks on the passenger side, and both sides didn't have any water in the pillars. Unfortunately I've still got water coming from under the drivers side dash which will be fun to deal with. Might investigate that this coming weekend.

On a different note, I'm about to attempt the FD alt swap, parts are on their way, so wish me luck. Pretty sure I've got all the bits figured out thanks to the great documentation on this forum and others. My current alt's bearings are loud enough to be heard over my car while cruising so... ya could say it's time for some new parts :). Plus the idle charging issues, oh my they are bad with accessories on. I'll go ahead and momentarily hijack my own thread to update y'all on it when I get around to it - no use in making a new thread for just one or two posts.

Anyways, thanks for the pointers and I'll be around

As I suspected, the Sunroof!

(It's always the Sunroof).

You do good work with that construction adhesive, I'm a big fan of the epoxy fix, although the body shop purists would disagree.

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_..._large.jpg?v=0

http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_..._large.jpg?v=0

I did the FD alternator swap... went for a modified 200 amp alternator, off of eBay. works awesome & wasn't too much difficulty with the help of a forum member that basically walked me through the modification... biggest thing is You will need to add a diode from the alt to the main harness to block a bit if electricity leakage due to differences in the wiring harness's between an FB an FD.. I think the diode goes on the upper of the two terminals on the left side of the alternator (orientation when installed) ... hope this helps .... OR You may already know all of this...LOL..

Dang, 200 amps? Wow. Anyways, thank you, and actually I'll be doing the swap tomorrow. You wouldn't believe how many threads I've read on the swap - I have to say it's a topic that doesn't seem to have one thread that quickly and fully answers everything (maybe I should make one after I'm done ;) ). Yesterday the alternator arrived, and the Banzai dual pulley kit + alt bracket came today. The new alt connector is coming sometime tomorrow. As for the swap, instead of using the diode approach I've decided to go with a relay. You can achieve the same effect either way, I'm just more familiar with relays. I have an idea on simplifying the wiring for the relay, but I'll let y'all know it after I do some probing with the multi-meter. I'll update tomorrow with the progress and I'll also probably take a crack at the drivers side dash leak while I'm at it.

Well the alternator is installed... Somehow the belts in the kit were one size too small (and yes I realize that there are two different belt options when ordering). I have no clue though how the proper year belts were short. Is it even possible to have an '89 - '91 water pump housing on a 12A, or was I just sent the wrong belts? If so, is there an easy way to distinguish between the two housings? Regardless, finding a store with two belts in stock proved fruitless - I ended up having to pick each from a different store. After that was all figured out it went pretty smoothly, but I'd really like to know whether it was my ignorance or their bad for the belts being too small. Great kit otherwise though :). With the "required" air pump delete, I took the opportunity to finish my already partial rats nest delete. All I've got now is the PCV and my redone (direct from spacer plate) vacuum advance. I also re-did the engine harness, so now I don't have any plugs that aren't in use.

However, there are of course a couple issues:
1. I need to re-tune the carb again. It seems like my "fixed" vacuum pot in the ACV was leaking and creating a vacuum leak at idle. Easy fix, just ran out of daylight.
2. I'm reading 15.2 volts at the battery while at idle. I haven't had time yet to check around with the multi-meter, but I'm assuming that my sense line is providing a low voltage reading.
3. My tach at idle is bouncing up and down inconsistently (not with engine rpm). I'm gonna bet that when I fix my over-volt issues that this will subside, but if anyone knows what might be causing this, throw it on out here.

I didn't have a chance to look into the leak yesterday so that might still happen today, and I also have some new front brake lines I need to install. Anyways, I'll have a chance to work on it again later today and I'll update then if I find anything.

1986 water pumps housings onward are aluminum. A 1986-1988 will fit but takes some work. I doubt you have a second gen water pump housing.

Well it looks like I was sent the wrong belts then. My water pump is rusty :/ so that answers that question. I'll contact Banzai sometime after the holiday.

I didn't have a chance to check the leak today - there are too many issues after my alt swap that I need to solve. So many, or at least so confusing, that I think they warrant a separate thread. I did, however, fix the over-voltage issue. It ended up that my sense wire which I used to both trigger the relay any power the sense line wasn't showing full voltage after running through the entire harness and all. I have since converted the old BW line to the relay trigger only, and have run a new lead from the fuse block to the relay for sense. Showing a constant 14.3 volts at idle and up. Lights go up and down faster than I've ever seen before too :)

I'll update whenever I have time to look for leaks again.

Banzai sent the correct length belts with the kit they sent you. Consider the fact that the Fd alternator case is larger in diameter than a Fb,FC. That puts the armature,shaft,pulley a further distance away from the centerline dimension of installed FB or FC alternator and why the supplied belts are "too short".

Now I would just like to say the kit is very well done, but the kit I purchased is specifically for the FD alternator; '92 and on. As such, this was the kit that came with the 17mm pulley bore, rather than the 15mm for the FC or FB/SA. I would assume in that case, the belts would be chosen to fit the FD alt's specs and such. If there is some possibility other than simply the belts being too small, please let me know. I honestly feel that the chance a mistake was made on Banzai's end is extremely low, and as such I would like to be certain before I go claiming anything. Regardless, I am pleased with the kit, and solving the mystery belt issue will make it even better.

As did i,i had same issue with the too short belts and had to source correct ones and have with every FD install i've done. When SKYDRIFTER350 was planning his upgrade i recommended the Banzai kit and advised him of the belt"issue" and gave him the #s for correct belt length.
While the kit is somewhat pricey for what you get and the belts being too short and having to source your own is understood,i feel the quality of the machining of the alt pulley and overall quality of bracket and hardware is top notch.
For our niche cars,there are very few suppliers of good quality upgrade parts that will bolt on with no massaging of parts.
I believe i'd contacted the vendor on this,don't recall the outcome as it was long ago,but $10 for pair of correct length belts is not a big deal to allow me to complete the job and return vehicle to customer in timely manner.
I will purchase another if//when i need one and will revisit the belt issue with the supplier,whatever the outcome i'll still continue to use the product. I have extra belts for stock applications now,so there's that.
I understand your wish to get everything you paid for and that is your right to pursue,just letting you know you are not the only one to have this happen to you.

Well that's good to know. Dang, 10 bucks for a pair of belts? Out of the four shops I went to, one, none of them had two belts in stock and two, the lowest price was 21.99 PER each belt. I guess I'm just little frustrated that I had to pay 43.98 after I had just paid a good chunk of change for the kit - half of which was belts. Being that I only have the one 7, I'll probably never use those belts in a "stock" application, or at least no time soon. Looks like I'll still try and contact them after the holiday. Great kit though, the fit and finish really seems solid and like it'll last a good long time.

Just a note: I think the belts that fit were a ...20. The kit included ...15's.

I get jobber price at local parts stores i deal with which helps and they let me go in the back to size up belt length i need as there's no application to look up for a part #.

Update time... We've gotten some rain recently and while I will say there is less water, there is definitely still a major leak. Passenger side is the best, although there is still a puddle in the floor. It seems like the water is coming in through the sunroof still as while driving recently, I have had the pleasure of being dripped on from the area that the sunroof visor parts with the headliner. Here's a picture of what it looks like under the headliner:
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9bbad41135.jpg


You could say the roof is a little rusty... I decided that instead of potentially compromising the entire sunroof area (note that the rest of the surround is not nearly as bad) I would take a shot at sealing it from the top. Figured that the Plasti Dip I had lying around might do the trick and would peel up easy if it failed so I gave it a try:
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e724a9ab79.jpg

I brushed on a good four coats or so and then cleaned up the gasket. I tested a small area on the gasket and the Dip adhered well, so I figured I would seal the gasket to the surrounding area. It worked pretty well, except that the Dip started to peel away from the drain holes as it dried. I'm going to inspect it today to see if more has removed itself, but otherwise I feel like the water is getting in some other way.

My guess now is that one, or both, of the front drain tubes are compromised, or it's leaking in through the sunroof front mounts. I'm trying to avoid pulling the headliner but perhaps it's gonna be necessary. Lot's of water in the drivers side and it's to the point that my heater/defog has no chance of keeping up.

I'll do some investigating today and update with whatever I find. Does anyone know how the front sunroof mounts seal? They seem like holes in the body, so I'd figure they have some sort of internal blockage to prevent water from getting further in.

Well it's been a few weeks and I have some news. For one, the leak is worse than I thought - better than I started with, but still pretty bad. The entire passenger side wall (by the seat) is regularly soaked with water and now my passenger belt is damp on a daily basis. For a while now I've been aware that something is amiss with the passenger rear sunroof drain as when I originally went to clean it out many months ago, it seemed like it had been plugged by something metallic. To go with that, no water has ever drained form it that I can tell, so it's common to see standing water in that corner. When I said that the drivers side was better than the passenger... not so much the case anymore. I had a massive puddle last time I checked whereas the drivers side is just a little damp. No water from the heater area anymore though.

So here's the jist. The car is gonna be down for a little, while I install my new headlight bushings, channel seals, and do my DLIDFIS mod with the dizzy swap. I figured that it's high time I pull the headliner to properly address the issue (well maybe not properly, but I'd say some more construction adhesive will do the trick if the holes aren't massive. And of course I'll treat the rust). I've been doing some looking for info on removing the headliner intact, but so far have not come across anyone doing it on an SA with a sunroof - sounds like it's got the bow style supports. Any advice for removing it and then reinstalling it? I started messing with it already, but I was worried I'd break something so I haven't gone too far. I'm mostly concerned about the windshield area and the sunroof surround.

Honestly I'm done with not being able to see without wiping down my windows every so often; thanks Oregon... So I suppose I'm looking for tips, tricks, and some advice on going about sealing it up. Anything helps :)

Well tomorrow I tackle some interior bits. On the list so far are my new window channel seals, cleaning up the window regulators, removing the leaf that somehow made its way into my blower motor, and finally the sunroof leak (hopefully the last leak).

I've had the door cards off before, but are there any special tricks to the channel seals, or do the old just pop out and the new pop in?

I'm also still open to any pointers on removing the headliner intact. 1980 GS with the sunroof.

​​​​​​Many thanks and a happy - almost - new year!

As far as the window 'side seals' go,....There is no real 'secret' as they are pretty straight forward & simple to remove & replace.
just take the old off & install are new! BTW, I've been following Ur post as I too have some kinds of 'mystery leaks' ....that have proven NOT so simple to figure out.. I'm still chasing them... (the sunroof area, or the (clogging of the drain) I should say, I believe is the main cause in THAT location)....LOL.. Good luck with it all.
Sam

Actually I had meant channel seals. The exterior side seals were the first thing I replaced a while back and did help the leak issue a little bit as the originals were so dryed and cracked, peices were missing. The channel seals are what run around the perimeter of the window in the 'channel' and guide rails. While the channel seals don't contribute much to sealing water, they do keep air out and prevent the window from rattling around in the door frame. My driver's side door was actually missing a chunk on the upright rear section, meaning I couldn't close the door with the window cracked open because the glass would slap the frame. I also got a nice breeze coming though on the highway. I successfully completed the replacement earlier today and I will say to anyone who wishes to do it, it is much simpler if you remove the window. Adding some WD or similar on the BACK - and I stress back because otherwise you will have oily marks on your window for a good lot of time - of the seals will help them slide down inside the door. You can also pull the front side of the door seal down the track if you remove some of the door plastic (necessary for removing the window anyways). For removing the plastic, if you pull away the glue from the door, often times it has enough stick left to re-adhere. I managed both doors without adding glue or damaging the plastic on either. That said, I also cleaned up the regulators, although unfortunately I installed the spring on the driver's side incorrectly and so I'll have to take it back off (it was installed wrong when I removed it and so I just put it back the same way. The passenger side spring was installed correctly and so now I know how to fix the driver's side).

I haven't had a chance yet to do the sunroof. Hopefully tomorrow I'll have time to start investigating that. While unrelated, I also need to install my headlight bushings so.... busy day tomorrow.

I will say chasing leaks is not too much fun, but the end product is definitely worth it. When you drive a wet car for a while and then drive or ride in a dry one, you realize how much you are missing out. That's not even to mention the benefits in terms of rust prevention and cleanliness - I no joke have had plants in my carpeting with all that water that sits in there.

I'll keep this updated with things I find. Hope I don't break anything... and best of luck with your own mystery leaks :).

I once lived in a dorm with a leaky bathroom, one morning I found mushrooms growing out of the floor boards. Of course, there are worse places to have plants growing (like the guy with the pea plant sprouting in his lung, https://www.medicalnewstoday.com/articles/197623.php)

I enjoy your threads, lots of interesting stuff in the DFI one too.

Oh my, all the wonderful places plants can be and really shouldn't. Glad you enjoy my threads, I enjoy making them :)

Anywho, on with the update.

Today was a fairly productive day, although I still haven't gotten too far on the sunroof (I'll get back to that later). First thing I did was install my new headlight bushings. I only had to do the long arm ones as the oem short arm bushings seem to stay on much better. May I say that those new bushings have made a world of a difference. No more clunking or squeaking (I lubed up everything else while I was at it); it's just so nice to not hear anything but the motors whirring away. Small thing, I know, it's just such an improvement over the past. Second thing I got done was finishing up (fixing) my windows. Got the drivers side installed correctly and it's smooth as could be. The passenger side is better, although it's still more difficult than the drivers (undoubtedly from the lesser use it has seen over the years) and still squeaks a little bit. The doors do sound much better when closing though, as with the new channel seals the windows don't bounce around anymore. Can't wait to take it for a drive to see how much more quiet it is... doubt I'll hear a difference over my exhaust though - probably'll be the lack of a breeze that'll make the difference ;).

Now for the headliner... I got it out! Nothing broken, stretched, or anything weird. It's now hanging from the rear section as it doesn't need to be removed any further for what I'm doing. When it goes for removing the headliner, it's actually pretty simple (alert! Incoming tutorial...). The front is held on with a reverse guide thing (as I call it). Basically it's just a flange that sits up in a groove under tension from the headliner so that it doesn't fall out. First you've got to remove the two visors, mirror, A-pillar trim, and at least part of the headliner that runs under those black strips that go all the way around the door. Oh, those black strips also hold on the A-pillar trim, so you'll have to pull those back before going further anyways. Once all that is removed, pick a side to begin - I chose the drivers side. Now from here on is true for (I'm assuming) both the '79 and '80 cars, the FB's may be similar but I can't be certain. I'm working on 1980 GS with the sunroof in case someone reads this without seeing the rest of the thread. By prying back some of the headliner from the upper corner of the windshield you can see a black 'trim' piece and a white piece of plastic. Use a screw driver to push on the white plastic toward the windshield (forward and down relative to the orientation of the car). It may take some force, but once it is out you can just work your way across the windshield using your fingers to pull it down. If you don't have the sunroof, all that's left is the parts above the door which are simply glued on (under that plastic trim thing which surrounds the door and is simply pressed over the frame), and you can use a screw driver, your nail, or anything else to work the headliner free. If you've got a sunroof - like myself, you've got to remove the same bits above the doors, but now the sunroof is preventing removal. First remove the sunroof and stow it somewhere. Next, pull out the pop-up visor with the four screws holding it in place (it should be obvious which ones as the others are for the sunroof 'hinge'). Once that is out you will notice a split seam under where one of the brackets for the visor was. In much the same way as the windshield area, choose a 'side' to start on, and then use a screwdriver or other implement to pry up the trim. Don't damage your precious gasket in the process though, they be spendy. I would also suggest removing the 'raising mechanism' before you get to that area as it will reduce the chance that you will stretch the headliner. Work your way around the sunroof area, and voila! Headliner is free. If you need to fully remove it, I assume a similar process can be used to remove it from the sides and rear hatch.

Now that the 'tutorial' is over, let me just say that we've got some rust. It's not as bad as it could have been but I've got my work cut out for me tomorrow. Here's a couple pictures of the damage.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bc1b4e7fa6.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...76603ea0e2.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...687761f851.jpg

This next picture is of the passenger rear corner - the drain that had completely clogged. While I doubt they are related, here is what I hope is the last mouse nest I find...

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d188de3278.jpg

So all these pictures were taken before I started cleaning. Since taking these I have cleaned the headliner then moving it behind the seats, and vacuumed out that nest. Tomorrow I'll start cleaning and treating the rust. I'm planning on doing what has become my usual - wire brush, clean it, ospho, and then construction adhesive.

Speaking of construction adhesive, I removed the pesky leaf from my blower motor today, and I must say, the construction adhesive there is holding up just fine. No signs of water there either; hopefully the same will soon be true of my roof too.

You'll probably hear from me again tomorrow after I've gotten stuff all done up. Happy 2019!

That looks like a ton of work in your near future! Best of luck with the repairs, I'm extremely glad I don't have to deal with anything like that.

Well the leak report is in, but first I've gotta show what I've done.

Unfortunately I forgot to take any pictures of the rust after I had cleaned and treated it, but here are some of the final product.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3f94b96c9c.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e34abc08ab.jpg

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1b93d11867.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e7c1a9a11c.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c09ce9cb3b.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...33a2b4db98.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...293c0e0e82.jpg


Some of the rust spots still appear orange in the photos. I can assure you that this was either staining on the paint, or places where the converter hadn't fully cured yet (I didn't seal anything before the converter was dry). You can see some of the places where it had cured as they turn black. All in all I think it turned out pretty good. I also figured out why the one drain wasn't doing its job - apparently sometime in this cars past, someone had the misfortune of dropping the perfect sized bolt down it. It was stuck in there so I had to cut open the tube which I was very hesitant about. I ended up only cutting it halfway through and then sealing it back up with some silicone. I was also going to wrap it in some strong duct tape but forgot; it should be fine...

We got some rain last night (I completed all the work on Wednesday night) and we are darned near leak free. Nothing is coming from the roof anymore as I checked the A-pillars by removing the trim and there were no signs of water. The passenger side is now completely dry (although we'll see again after some longer duration, heavier rain), and the drivers side just had two spots. I believe they are coming from up under the dash which is unfortunate due to all of the electronics being located there. For now though I'd say it's miles better than in the past (hmm, that sounds familiar from when I fixed the blower motor leak...). I do believe that the leak quest is practically over, although I probably won't get to the under dash leak for a while yet.

Thanks for all the pointers, and to those who said check the sunroof, well.... I'd say y'all were right on the money.

I'll update eventually when I dive into the driver's side dash leak.

Good work and I hope it lasts for a long time.

This is why I don't like sunroofs and mine doesn't have one thankfully.

Nice work Ben, it takes a real man to stand up to that Oregon rust.

And the bolt in the drain tube, that will do it every time.

Those drain tubes are key, you need to keep them clean. I have a special little wire brush I use on mine.

Pour some Coors in the groove around the sunroof, if it doesn't drain in a second or two you've got some work to do.

I've got some extra stock drain tubes I can send you if you want to replace the one you sliced open.

Also Ben, don't listen to Tim about sunroofs, he doesn't have one so he doesn't know what he's missing.

Sunroofs are like pretty women. Trouble sometimes but worth it in the end.