teardown pics eewww
 

since i didnt want to hijack Pete's(peejay) thread, i will post here. Pete, John(nevarmore), Eric(schreindogg), and I tore down one of my old engines the day of our meet. the engine was seized and had been sitting for 4 years......in a garage. here's a quick lowdown of what we found:


http://img264.echo.cx/img264/8562/dsc030952qn.jpg

http://img229.echo.cx/img229/5653/dsc030978to.jpg

http://img229.echo.cx/img229/9278/dsc030984ka.jpg

http://img229.echo.cx/img229/4233/dsc031061od.jpg

http://img229.echo.cx/img229/6062/dsc031108wz.jpg

i can post more at request. i know its gross. its bacically junk. its too bad. maybe i can use the end plates;)

Wow. That looks as if it has been under water for those 4 years. Well, almost.

ugly...

There was another one on here not TOO long ago that was in similar condition. I almost puked then, and I almost puked now :D

maybe if you sit everything in a tub of Coke a cola for awhile, the rust can do away!

That would be mine! I think it was almost worse that that :) The sludge built up was about 3 cm thick, it was gross.

These threads make me afraid of when I tear mine apart :(

Thats nasty... real nasty.... reminds me of working on my old '62 Fairlane... rust everywhere

Looks like an 83-85 12a. How are them rotors cleaning up?

its an 83. you can tell by the counterweight. only the front rotor is decent. i am not sure if i will re-use any internals. the rear rotor was seized to the e-shaft. the fron rotor is scummy but maybe there's hope. i may rebuld another 12A that i have laying around. i have 3 more.

hahaha awesome, you also buy Castrol GTX 20W50 by the case?

Castrol?! ARen't YOU the fancey ones. I use the shit you get for 98 cents at wal mart. A case is like, $10!

i do buy it by the case, lol. with oil injected engines, you can never have too much oil in stock;) i use nothing but castrol. my personal thing i guess. something just doesn't feel right to me using the 98 cent oil. but thats just me i guess:)

I normally don't buy my Castrol GTX 20W50 by the case, but with the car recently consuming a quart every other day, I bought one. Now that the internal oil leak is handled, I have oil reserves to last for awhile.

GTX 20W50 by the case also. Also stocked up on a couple of Oil Filters. I hate to go to the store and find they are out of filters when I go to change oil. Try and have one on hand all the time.

i bought a case of Castrol GTX 10w-30 :D!

wow, arent you special, lol.

Now I'm definately scared to look inside mine.

That was fun.

Keep in mind we tore an engine apart because we were BORED. After sorting out Jacks -SE and getting the idle on my GS unbuggered (it was the Throttle Position Switch and the A/C compensator) there were 5 of us just standing around, with tools out, already greasy and our gracious host had moved 4 cars into the street so we could tinker. Imagine what kind of hell we could have made if we got into a better engine with a beer run and a hole saw....

aww, it was nothing, lol. we did have a blast though! it turned out to be a great meet and it was great fun tearing down the engine. do you remember the "chode"? rotfl!!!

I've got quite a few on my website also: http://www.eng.utoledo.edu/~eschrein...x7_meet_5-9-05

here are some of the worst:

http://www.eng.utoledo.edu/~eschrein...5/DSC01349.jpg


http://www.eng.utoledo.edu/~eschrein...5/DSC01351.jpg


http://www.eng.utoledo.edu/~eschrein...5/DSC01357.jpg

Also, Dave when do you want to start ripping apart another motor to rebuild?

That thing was either a coolant seal motor that someone let sit (by definition coolant seal failure lets coolant into the combustion chamber which will cause rust if not blown out), or it just got water into it by some other means (sitting with intake off, hood open, outside in the yard, etc. usually the only things reuseable would be rotorhousings and e-shaft. However the pre 86 rotorhousings chrome flake too badly to be reused most of the time anyway, so I'd call it a total loss. It's usually really hard to get stuck side seals out of rusty rotors.

That motor is depressing.

I've bought 2 cases of Royal Purple 20/50 for REPU so far.

Yea I have 2 just like that one I'm affraid I dont have a digital camera or I would take pictures :).

Are the things that look like stretch marks on the front cover bad?

http://www.eng.utoledo.edu/~eschrein...5/DSC01345.jpg

No, those are normal casting marks found on both the inside and outside.

Yea the last 6 front housings I have seen look like that.

That engine had:

The wrong imbalance flywheel ('81-82 flywheel on a light-rotor engine... BAD BAD BAD!)
Siezed rear rotor bearing (had to hammer the E-shaft out, destroying it)
Roached stat bearings
Coolant seals all burnt away
Evidence of rotor-to-side housing contact (can we say overrevving?), including side seals hammered into the rotors
Severious chrome flaking
and of course lots of rust from sitting without being oiled down first!

So really there were at least three reasons why this engine should have died long before it finally siezed up! But it didn't die!

Next time someone tells you how "fragile" rotary engines are, LAUGH IN THEIR FACES!

And tell 'em that FD's are not the only rotaries ever produced :)

Which reminds me, DAVE PUT SOME MMO IN YOUR OTHER THREE ENGINES AND GIVE THEM A FEW TURNS!

It was fun once, the next time we tear down an engine that is all rusty inside it will just be sad.

i have mmo and atf in the good one. the other two, not yet. i should squirt some in there, lol. just to make sure;) when do you guys want to do a rebuild? i have an engine that lost front seal and one that lost a rear seal. can we say frankenrotor, lol

anyone have an engine that they opened in worse shape?

Opened one up a while back tha tlooked like yours, but was so rusted the carbon fell off the rotors. There was huge flakes of rust and crud and mud (wth?) in the insides. Yours looked pretty bad, atleast your rotor bearings look good :lol:

Bored I see... I wonder what brought this back to life.

Yes i don't have pictures of it, the engine was over-revved and threw 2 apex seals one in each housing, amazingly the motor still ran kind of was driven another 5 miles, when we tore it down every housing/plate had chunks removed, pieces made it to the oil pan as well

i was bored and came across this old thread so i figured that i would just revive it because it takes me back to a good time in my life :)

FWIW, I've had the same thing. I had a seized SE motor that I routinely added MMO to, hoping it would free up. I finally gave up, unstacked it, and just had rusted rotors. All the rust was pickled by the MMO and scraped off with a razor blade. The irons and housings are absolutely perfect, though the rotors were shot. Just goes to show you guys that sometimes you can get lucky, and there's usually something to be saved even from junk motors, so y'all keep your composure when you're taking a junk engine apart.

Sorry yours was junk, though.

Yes. The motor that came in my '83. The owner before the previous one had, in his wisdom, left the hood and the air cleaner off and parked the car outside under a tree for several years. I wish I took pictures. It was similar to your motor, but way worse. About three inches of rusty mud in the bottoms of the housings, water poured out when the spark plugs were removed, rotors fused to the irons, etc.

There was mold growing on my rotors. I'm dead serious.

i'd love to see pics of that...sounds awful.

Yea sounds pretty damn gross, got any pics?

wow, i'm scared to do a tear down of my motor next week now.

No, I didn't get pics. I wish I had. Funny thing was, the chrome on the rotor housings was beautiful. Unfortunately, the water jacket had corroded to the point where they were unusable. The owner probably ran it with straight water for a long time.

^^thats sad....

aww naww, i got one thats been sittin for bout 8 years. was running when pulled out of car. i was gonna redo the short block jus to have one ready to go in when my "172000" mile motor blows. but after those pics i dont kno...