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Siraniko, I understand that, I had other issues beyong the smoking Engine. Twighlightoptics, yes this engine blew all of its coolant seals, plus all the MMO I originally dumped in just to get the seals unstuck and running. Update.......new coolant temp sender installed and working properly, oil pressure working properly after spicing in new connector....still idles at 2500 rpm, ran it for 10 mins....no smoke...yet.....
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2500 rpm? U sure carb is ok and linkage not jammed? Or did you adjust the idle screw that high so it will idle?
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Originally Posted by Siraniko
(Post 11103500)
Wow you guys sound like a gay couple who recently got divorced if thats the proper name, lots of drama LMAO
Originally Posted by rwatson5651
(Post 11103518)
I agree. I would much rather hear about jtalar's progress with his smoking engine......
Originally Posted by jtalar
(Post 11103550)
Wow!! I didn't mean to cause a pissing contest. 13X, yes I am a customer of Karack, he rebuilt both Nikki carbs of mine and he did try and talk me out of the 12A. I approached him about it and he told me he could build a 13B but the timeline to get it built was not within my needs/wants. That is why I sent my original engine to Goopy, although that ordeal was not an easy go, we had some problems for sure. But that can be for another post. Karack, 13X was the only person here in Vegas that took time out of his schedule to come out and help me when I first bought it, as I knew Absolutely nothing about rotary cars. Since then I have asked quite a few people that I have had dealings with for parts and what not, to come give me a hand (I even explained that I would pay them for their time), but to no avail.
Back to my issue, I spliced in a new connector for the oil pressure sender, tapped on the glass and it came to life. However I think the gauge is bad cause it hangs up. I am in the process of installing a new coolant temp sender, I will let all know how it goes. As far as the smoking, it seems to have subsided slightly when first fired up and running. After several minutes it starts blowing smoke like crazy,and it is still idling at 2500 rpms despite all my efforts. Do the wires running to the trans have anything to do with engine idle? During reinstallation a clip on one wire broke off, and I lost my identifying marks so I might have two swapped... jtalar, I'd suspect either the linkage is bound somehow and/or a vaccum leak |
made sure everything was ok with the carb before shipping it, cam was sitting on the idle set screw. try taking all the cables off completely and double checking your vacuum lines, especially making sure that the brake booster hose didn't come off by accident somehow. would have to be a significant leak to cause it to jump up that high.
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Update.....Thanks everyone, especially 13X for showing me the errors of my ways. 13X came by and figured out that I am a knucklehead, here I was adjusting the air/fuel mixture thinking it was the idle adjustment screw. low and behold 13X pointed out that the idle adjust is buried where you can barely see/get a screwdriver on. After a few tries we got the idle down to just under 1000 rpms, she seems to be missing a bit, but I will throw some fresh plugs in and try and dial the timing in. When revved a little she runs smooth as glass, and all the smoking seems to have subsided... Thank you to everyone!!!! 13X, I owe you some beers. Now I just have to wait for my wheels to come back, button up some wiring issues, fix the power steering leak and throw the interior in...oh and get an alignment.....Who wants to smog her for me?
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did you try readjusting the air fuel screw to smooth out the idle? if that was tampered with then it will need to be readjusted.
short description of adjusting it is to allow the engine to fully warm up and idled down, turn the screw out 2.5 turns and then begin turning it in until the idle raises to it's highest point and then just begins to misfire running slightly rough then turn it back out 1/4 turn. you may just want to run the engine at a fast idle(around 1200RPMs) for about an hour before even attempting to adjust it though, as the engine will need to settle in and will be constantly adapting during that first 1-2 hours of run time. |
jtalar ... not a problem your only like 10 minutes away .... hollar when ya ready and I'll run the timing light over to you ... also I have a caster/camber guage and we can set the toe (When running the race car we had to set our own alignment for the 9 1/2 ft 200 hp car lol) ... mine I did the same way or if you'd like to do as a "for now" it wouldn't hurt my feelings ;)
Oh if you need wheels to set it on the ground I have at least a set of the stock FB wheels with rubber |
Karack, I will try that after I get the PS leak fixed, thanks again. 13X I will hit you up soon for the caster/camber gauge. I have a timing light at work I will grab but thanks for everything. That might be a good setup with how your suspension is, I'm thinking since this new suspension sits much lower, my camber is going to be out to lunch.
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well actually adjustment on the caster camber is "very" limited unless you went coilovers ... but yeah just hollar
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So when can i expect my 18-pack cold heienes lol
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