First things first use your DMM and check for voltage to the excite wire when you turn the ignition to the crank/ start position. If you don't get voltage there you will have to more back to your ignition switch and check there for voltage in the crank position. You just need to love through the electrical from the starter back until you find the fail.

I guess so. I can't see any of the pics on the forum on my.phone for some stupid reason. Would you be able to send them to my email or something? I have to get my car going again. It's killing me not having it running and relying on one car for two people.

I was just reading another thread where rotaryrocket88 and hozzman wired straight from battery to one relay for clutch start and then back down to the starter. I'll get under once I have another set of hands to hit the key for me. :sigh:

Yes because if you have power from the battery wire to the threaded post on the starter and you have the starter casing grounded. All that is left is the exciter wire. If that isn't getting voltage you have to back track the wire and it will go to the ignition switch. If you are turning the switch on and it turns the pump I can assume the switch is getting power. So it's either the wire from the switch to the starter or it's the switch itself at this point. And if you want to do a push button start there are kits on eBay with relays and lighted buttons available very cheap.

I appreciate the help Dave. Having the car down really has me in a dither and I'm itching to drive it again. I'll pop back in and let you know what I find but that push button is a more likely option. I'm not great with electronics on these cars yet. I know I have a few more important ones to take care of.

@jeff20b: The copying process used in all analog, and digital laser copy machines is called "Xerography" so that term is correct.

source: I'm a Ricoh copier repair tech.
alternate source: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Xerography
TYL !

I went out with my dremel, wire wheel, paper rolls and a stone and ground EVERY SINGLE CONTACTING SURFACE within reason on that starter and all wiring. I think the cherry on top was replacing the excite wire terminal. But it kicks every time now amd she RAN GREAT! I just meed to figure out why I get code 27 but with OMP delete. I'll go into that in another thread.