The start to well.....Something awesome
 

Well its not often clean examples of these cars pop up in my area. Now granted its not mint perfect or even good in my thought's. What it is a Fair example of a 7 in my neck of the woods. This is the rust belt and how this one made it i will never know. Body is clean with only a few small spots on the panels and i mean small. Underneith some of you may rember my thread on rust on the frame rail and link mounts in the back. This does not scare me at all :) Most of the factory undercoating is just now starting to peal off. BOdy will be prepped and coated in some kinda truck liner or undercoating. I work at a ford Dealer here in my town so have access to eerything that comes with a major dealership!!!! However i dont have a garage at the moment but that will soon change.

Mods to this beast include rats nest removal. Rb short shifter. Rb header Rb intake air cleaner. Rims aer orginal but not to this model (I think anyway).

I spray bombed the one black to check it out. Future improvments are to get rid of that god awful 25 year old suspension in the front or at least bring it back to spec. Turbo turbo turbo. Working on this right now with rob at the shack. Please feel free to give me thought s on the car and ways to better improve it. Best of all was the price. 500 bucks!!!!! Drives like a champ and came with a running 12a block!!!

Inside is thrashed pretty hard meaning the carpet and such. But hey thats what the guys in recon are for!!!




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love the one black rim, nice find though. With some TLC that car will be nice

Used to be some kind of emrald green too ashame someone sprayed over it. Cant find paint code as someone painted over stickers. Maybe if i took some thinner to it i could read it!!!! I love when people say tlc lol to me that says "with lots of cash" But its the truth here in wisconsin you either find a 5,000 dollar 7 or a please take it out of my yard 7.

nice find. have fun with it.

A good place to find original paint codes is www.paintscratch.com. They have all the original colors and even offer touch up paint. Great car by the way love the rims.

the rims are nice but i dont know what model there from. gonna have them powder coated the final color of car. Not sure what thats gonna be yet but hey....

What are the benifts to the s4/s5 water houseing and pump????

They are made out of aluminum instead of cast iron. It would save you a couple of pounds if you swapped over...

would it be a benifical to run one of these since i am installing the s4 turbo mani and turbo?? that way i could plumb in the water end of the turbo to the s4 wp?

Eau Claire michigan?

If you want to plumb a water source into your turbo, use the hose that does to the heater core. It is right in that area. On the outbound from the turbo, just plumb it at the heatercore.

Parts are starting to come together. Gotta weld up the s4 door shown in picture. Allready gutted.


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Turbo arrived also needs to be cleaned up. Very small side to side play not enough to hit wall but to much for me. Gotta rebuild.


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Order all my flanges and gaskets from mazdatrix. Will update soon with more pics of how i make my adapter mani.

Looking for a tII down pipe now.

S4 turbo waterpump and houseing on the way :)

Again, Eau Claire michigan?

again eau claire wisconsin :P

haha, well probably about the same difference, cold as all hell

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good lookin 7's arent that hard to find lol

Maybe not down there. But way up north they are. :P

Looking at intercoolers tonight? should i get the t2 top mount or go full frontal:naughty:

Do yourself a favor. Spend the extra money and effort and front mount it. top mounts are useless after one good run on any engine. Heatsoak is bad on top mounts. I can hear it already....hear he comes.....that guy that is going to say my top mount works fine. Well I'm here to tell you ahead of the time top mount guy. Your an idiot so don't even bother posting how your top mount works efficiently. It's aluminium bolted to heatsoaked cast iron and aluminium. Does it sound efficient. Where does the air go that blows through it. Oh! that's right down through it to underneath where what happens? oh that's right heat rises. Now how does a top mount work? oh i forgot it doesn't after the engine warms up you will never lower the temp of that intercooler till you leave the car off for about 3 or four hours.

Sorry for the long post brother but those are facts of physics and I wanted to point it all out before the top mount guy gets here with his $.02 I actually decieded to go NA on my swap because I did not want to incurr the extra cost of the turbo plumbing as there is no way in hell I would run a top mount not even in the meantime or whatever lie people tell themselves that will never front mount the car anyways.

Do it right the first time or just make the car na that's my honest opinion. I have built many many cars for power and a top mount like on a Subaru is garbage. Plus then you need a hood to make it work even in the slightest.

But better than all that is a liquid intercooler but people don't use them very much which is kinda a shame since they work extremely well and can be a fraction of the size of an air to air setup. Also methonal injection could be used hence negating the need for any intercooler. I'm done bothering your post now there's some options. I'm not an asshole really I just speak the truth.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/naturbo4.htm


Found thos today. assumme i need something close to this for my 12-13b flange huh guys????

I am also gonna need a fb intake for mock up on my spare 12a block. anyone want to donated one for a week or so!!! :) let me know

ive got one i'll sell ya

Looks sweet. I am jealous of the lack of rust :0

Flanges and gaskets came today! Wednesday i begin mock up after work and welding the adapter up!

Will post pics of final product.


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isnt today tuesday?

Looking good so far. Fwiw, the turbos have a copper/brass exhaust gasket, about $50 each. The NA ones may not take the extra heat of the turbo.

i will have to check that out! Welp as promised. the pics of my mock up in the freezing fucking cold!!!! This is on a junk 12a i have yet to crack open.

Total specs of the adapter is 2 3/8 inches. It was hard to cut the pieces that small and tack them up. I hope its not to big. If anything it will hit frame rail or maybe idler arm. If i have to shorten the runners so be it. FOr the sake of getting it done i might have welding shop weld her up when i get the final mesurments. It will be tight quarters in there for me to weld with a crappy wire feed that we have at work.



The weight of the turbo dosnt seem to be a issue. I bought 1/8 inch pipe and even with my tack welds it is holding its own.

Hopefully its close. But meh....it was only 20 min worth of work. :)

Next week if all is well i begin oil supply and fuel supply. My tank is all ready dropped and going to the rad shop for prepping.


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:shocking: :shocking:

what are those white stuff on the floor? cotton balls as in xmas decoration? :rlaugh:

I wish that was some kind of sick joke wacky :P i hate snow. The reaper makes a comment :) Must be nice to live where its warm.

lol. please send me some snow!!! I only see them shit on christmas cards!!! :rlaugh: :rlaugh:

only 60 more posts to hit your worthless post cout buy the 1st.

:rlaugh:

I have a question for you guys. When i removed my current exhaust header to test fit my turbo header i noticed these. There small holes in the exhaust prt. Is this normal? my other 12a dosn't have them. Also how long can i leave my header off? Is it safe or will the moisture damage the engine? Figured it cant be to bad as moisture creeps threw the exhaust anyway up into the engine. Let me know. Turbo oil lines have all been purchased!!! Progress it going steady. I get my gas tank back on wednesday with all the new fittings plumbed in. Merry Chirstmas people!!!


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Those holes are normal. Get a new exhaust gasket. Do you still want my manifold? You never got back to me.

funds are tight this week but yes i do. i will get ahold of you asap right after the 1st when i get paid.

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it just barley clears the idler. the turbo won't fit like this. looks like i need to take her in about a 1/4 inch maybe a 1/2 dosnt look like i will have any problems with the turbo hitting the intake. At least i dont think what do you guys think

Cool, I'll hang on to it for you.

your braver than I, I don't even want to walk to my garage in the 5 feet of snow up here!

Welp carb is off and will soon be sent to bad 83 for some work. Thanks Sam:)

The million dollar ? of the day is to lock or not to lock. Only going to be running 8psi max. Whats the genral thought on this????

Lock what?

THe dizzy

Here comes the ? that concerns me the most!!! Drill vertically or horiztal threw the front cover for the return. Drill the dimple or the quarter size plug below the omp. I know on the 13b's its right under the omp factory. But i have seen it both ways. ANother choice must be made pull the pan or the front cover. Not relly feeling good about the front cover with the bearing situation. I guess the easy way would be to pull the pan drill down flush flush flush magnet flush flush to be sure. I need some real world help here from people that have done it. Not a guessing game here. Everything is looking good and there will be updated pics soon. Turbo mani fits perfect now.

Damnit it all to fudge i still need a carb hat for the nikki. Rob is gone till the 1st and when he is around its hard as haell to reach him!!!! Anyone makeing these besides him?

the paint code is located on the VIN plate on the right side of the firewall. i'd be interested to know what it is. if i had to guess, i'd say that it is V3, which is Tender Blue

Do not put the oil return in the pan. You cannot get the hole high enough for the oil to freely drain there. The pan needs to be dropped, then you will only have to put a rag beside the oil pump drive chain to keep flying debris from getting on it. Just wipe everything out good, and you will be okay. I'l try and get a pic of the location you need to drill out for the return.

friggin sam to the rescue :)

every time i think i have it.....well i dont......This adapter is kicking my ass. SAm pointed out that maybe my motor mount is sagging or some shit i dunno but i am starting to get pisseed of in this -20 weather. It just wont clear the idler with the turbo on it. And at this prox i am almost hitting the intake. So its gotta come up or something. getting a little peeved and am looking at other sources for the mani. But fear not this project is still full steam ahead.


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Have you tried mounting the turbo to the manifold, then mounting them as a unit to the spacer? If memory serves me right, I think that will get you past the mounting studs issue on the mani.

for sure wont fit then lol maybe if i dumped oil on it it would slip in :)

You should move the turbo forward a bit.

Make a few connector tubes for your flanges that are cut on angles.

-billy

Looking for ideas of intercoolers from fellow 12a turbo guys. Dont really wanna ditch the battery so assume i need an intercooler to suite that need. What do the pros suggest!