solid TRANNY mounts
 

To go with the solid motor mounts....

http://vintagerotaries.com//images/m...st/mount01.JPG

Pleased I'm not a passenger in your car... You are just using it for the track, aren't you?

Yea whats the purpose, just go with some factory rubber and you should be fine.

I wonder if that would be better than holding a pager in your lap? :)

How bout sitting on your pager??? :rlaugh:

Buddy solid engine, mounts solid tranny. Hope you dont have fillings. :D

That may hold true with a piston engine but it's not that harsh with a rotary. The entire rotating mass never travels outside of 6" from center and does not have a vilent change in direction as a piston on a connecting rod does.
The more radical the porting the more you feel it but that is to be expected. But it doesn't amplify the vibration to a intolerable level.
I will get some of the 100+ customers of mine that have actually installed them to post their experiences. Most are Ebay but there are plenty of forum members running them. Mostly 2nd genners but several 1st and 3rds now.

What do your solid engine mounts for the FB look like?

What the? A Scalliwag post in the 1stgen corner!
Question: What if you ran poly engine mount bushings and that most excellent tranny piece of yours?

And, of course, what is the $$$ of that tranny mount?:confused:

Hell Mario you know how much hell I have taken over 1st gen (or lack of) stuff :eek: So now that I have the vintage forum I am coming around :)
The tranny mounts will work fine with any mount but the more solid the motor mounts the more effect they have.
The crossmember under the tranny still has rubber biscuits where it bolts to the subframe so you don't lose all flex, just most of it.
As long as you ran solid mounts you could pull those and shim the mount solid.
But if you did that without a solid mount and the motor twists under torque all that force would go on the two 8mm bolts with less than 5" between them. The leverage would be insane. Eventually it would break them or pull the threads out of the tail housing :(
The mount is $45.

I wasnt knocking you and I understand the concept. But my engine isnt the smoothest running piece of mechanical wonder I have. A while ago I had a really bad vacuum leak and the engine wanted to jump outa the car at idle:) Now I have other problems...:(

I do like your semi solid idea that I read on the other board. :peace:

The motor definately needs to be running right. Usually someone with a liking for power likes to feel it and actually enjoy feeling their motor a little more. Plus the response when they get on it and better yet when the tranny doesn't rock back between shifts and cause you to miss gears they love that even more.
But I definately concede that if the motor is not running right it would probably add to the nuicance :(
But when it is running right.... :D

The semi-solids are definately the best of both worlds and it is just a cost factor. The labor/equipment time is higher. The problem with the 1st gens is that the mount is not very tall. Trying to make a cushioning mechanism with so much less room to play with will be a challenge.
Right now I am doing the 3rd gen prototype. It looks wicked as hell.

How do we order these? How tough is install?

How do we order these? How tough is install?

As long as you have a jack and a set of jackstands they are easy. Some of the 13b's in the GSL-SE's are a little more pain but still easy. For those I take the bolts from the front cover and the bottom with the motor slightly jacked up and pull the whole bracket with the mounts.
It is easier than fighting the top two nuts in some cases.
When reinstalling you just drop the bolts from the top and tighten from the bottom.

To order my PayPal is mikeroberts@charter.net and just put in the order what you are wanting and that it is a non-Ebay auction.

Hockey pucks are cheaper

Hey guys, go buy some hockey pucks

save your money, use hockey pucks

Scalliwag : I`am guessing that the solid motor mounts might be a bit harsch with my Bridge Port ?

Karis

I know a few people around here running them with healthy port jobs. BDC (Brian Cain), Tony Farkas, I can think of off hand that will tell you they make a difference but not a huge difference in feel.
You can already feel a bridgey pretty well with stock mounts. It is not as intensified as most people expect.
Some people just change the left side mount so the motor does not lift under torque expecting any vibration to be reduced. In theory at least at first glance that makes sense but whether that holds true is another story.

Ok!
Then i will definately consider it!
Thanks Scalliwag!

Are you going to go to the "meet" the Saturday of May 1st? Heck, for that matter, is Eric going to do the meet again?? If he does, bring one with you and I'll have some cash for you...otherwise, I can wait til City Streets on the following Thursday night...:cool:

I'm not sure. Probably though. Are you going to the swapmeet 5/8?

I can make it in the morning, but I have a BDay party that afternoon, so I can't stick around...

Scalliwag
Sent you a PM .

Scalli is back in the 1st GEN section.... take a look at the new metering lines ;)
http://www.vintagerotaries.com/image...repu/close.JPG


http://www.vintagerotaries.com/image...epu/close1.JPG


http://www.vintagerotaries.com/image...epu/close2.JPG


http://www.vintagerotaries.com/image...epu/close3.JPG

Sweet!

Are they just rubber under that SS braid or are they something else? Teflon, Viton, something or other...

The SS lines sure do look nice but I like the piece of mind that comes from actually seeing oil in my clear stock lines.

You just stick them on and that's it? That must be one serious interference fit! And that poor Nikki!! Whose car is that? lol...seriously, though...where's the link to get a pair and how much $$$ ??:cool:

hmmmmm. those are nice omp lines. I would buy some if i didnt premix.:(

I got the 2nd gen solid mount for the S\C and it feels alot better than the Mazda one.

Later
Dan Atkins

DA, get that blasphemy out of your avatar!..:p:

scalliwag where ya at? or wait was it you who told me they were going on vacation? i think it was. Stupid ADD

That is about the only drawback. But if you ask most rotorheads when the last time they really looked at the oil in their metering lines they get a pretty blank look on their face. Some lines are so discolored they look to have oil in them and they may not.

The stainless hose has a PTFE (teflon) liner. The boot ends have nitrile inner rubber with a rigid jacket that is a lot like you would see on an air compressor hose. I could not get any info on the outer composite other than it is temperature and chemical tolerant. I am not talking about the colored jacket. That is just for looks. :)

Because of the jacketing I mentioned they kind of have a built in clamping quality but because of the way you have to route them around the water pump neck there is no way I would risk not running a clamp at that in. On the carb end I just push them on because the nipple on the carb is probably 3/4" and a pretty straight shot.

As far as the poor car, that is my REPU and Thorage327 (Chris Green) motor we still have to pull out. That is a sad ass sight. We need to hook up and slap a set on your motor so I can get nicer pics :)

As far as price and links they are $30 + $5 shipping per set for forum members until 7/27. You still need to come out and see the shop Mario so I think you can avoid shipping ;) We got another 1500sf BTW for a 3000sf total :)
People do need to PM me and I will give them my PayPal info.
I had just posted my PayPal when I gave the price on my intercooler bead rollers once and there was a quick but shortlived run that wore my ass out :eek:
So this way if I run short on material I can give an ETA for shipping before someone makes a payment.
But we'll always have a set ready for you Mario ;)