The way I had it set up on my '80 ('83 engine) was simple.

I ran a hose from a nipple on the intake manifold (it was by #2 rotor housing, facing the engine) to the nipple on the oil filler tube. In-line with that was a PCV valve for a Mitsubishi. (Let's say it's for a '92 Caravan with the 3.0l engine) The threads end of the PCV valve goes towards the manifold.

Next, I ran a hose from the nipple on the center housing (near the oil filler tube) to a nipple on the "filtered" side of the air cleaner.

The theory is, the air goes through the air cleaner, down the hose to the center housing, through the engine, up into the oil filler tube, through the hose to the PCV valve, and finally to the intake manifold.

That takes care of that. All five nipples on the carb spacer were capped off (two hoses and one cap :) ). Because I was using the '80 air cleaner, I routed the hose from the charcoal canister to the bowl vent (big nipple on the top of the carb, by the fuel lines) which approximates the "normal" way of venting the fuel bowls to the air cleaner. Otherwise, I'd run a hose from that to another nipple on the filtered side of the air cleaner. Probably wouldn't hurt to leave it open, but I'm picky.

I left the fuel tank vapor line dangling above the engine. Never had a problem. If liquid fuel comes out of there I have bigger problems to worry about than fuel on the engine :) (Like, extricating myself from the wreck)

Do not cap off the vacuum advance pots on the distributor - leave them free to atmosphere.

I left all the solenoids and stuff on the carb, on the carb. It ran better that way, or rather, the engine would continue to run with the key off if I unplugged them. I think there was a fault in the ECU that kept bleeding power to the coils even though the ignition switch was turned off - probably somehting to do with transistors and capacitors all loaded up with no place to spend their electricity so it finds a way through the coils. I dunno, I'm not good at electronics, I just know that it didn't like having everything unplugged. :)

It should. Mine did.

I've got the bare minimum. It's a race engine, and I think it's an '85 engine. If it doesn't make the car run, steer, brake, or go fast, and if removing it doesn't break the rules, it's not on there.

Is it possible to get moisture inside the vacume advance hoses that come of the distributer? I used to have the hoses disconnected, but I had a problem with water getting somewhere and causing my car not to rev high and would stall in the rain. Everyone suggested it was my plug wires, so I changed plug wires, dist, dist cap and plugs. But the problem was still there.
Only when I put the two solinoids for the vacume advance back on did this problem stop.

Is it possible to get moisture in the vacume advance hoses (is there even anything electrical in there?)? I want to take them off again because my car idles a lot nicer with them off.