I premix using 2 stroke. Have been since I had the car. Not sure if that means anything, but all temps seem to read the same.
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i premix for every full tank
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Originally Posted by locopr1
(Post 7697601)
My biggest problem with 2 cycle is that it burns so quicly and easily it may cause a higher temp and friction in the housing from the point after spark until intake. This could mean shorter life of apex seals and housings.
I can tell you from many hours on the track with motors that have no OMP's. We are seeing no premature wear by premixing. Most use a synthetic 2-cycle but others use wal mart brand 2-cycle. I did enjoy your long post. Very nice. |
Originally Posted by cpa7man
(Post 7697723)
This is an interesting observation for sure. First time I've seen it. So what your saying is that we should be premixing a straight 30 wt oil, or something similar. Flash point higher. Or a 2-cycle and a 30wt would cover the entire combustion cycle.:)
no OMP and pre-mix. Actually, I think that he's saying it's not just ok, but better. Frank |
Actually I am not saying to do anything. Im just stating what the facts are, each of us can draw our conclusions. I would love to use 2cycle, but just dont have enough data to tell me that in the long-term it works as well or better.
As far as synthetics, I believe it works just as well as conventional. A lot of the fears about synthetics are about the first versions thirty years ago. The synthetics from companies like Mobil 1 that first came out were notoriously bad. Go download the motor oil bible, it is excellent reading. you can download the full version here for free: http://www.trustmymechanic.com/motoroil.html
Originally Posted by sneezix
(Post 7697741)
I think that he's saying that it's ok to use the OMP and synthetic oil, rather than
no OMP and pre-mix. Actually, I think that he's saying it's not just ok, but better. Frank |
Where the hell did you see a post that people used motor oil as premix? Please link.
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i guess it's really to each his/her own
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Originally Posted by micah
(Post 7698116)
Where the hell did you see a post that people used motor oil as premix? Please link.
Just noticed that this thread started in 2003 ouch....I think the mods should kill it. |
I'll post his article again to hopefully clear up some of the mineral vs synthetic misconceptions.
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/faq...=haas_articles |
Is there any long-term ill-effects on the fuel injected cars running premix? I mean that is well beyond what the fuel injectors were originally designed to do. Running a little extra can't be a bad thing, but I don't want to do it at the cost of screwing up something with the fuel injection system.
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i just got some 2 cycle oil the same size as a regular oil container and dumped in a splash when i put in gas on my carbed 13b. also for the OMP removal i just put two short bolts in there with o-rings beneath em. worked fine. block-off plate would have been a better idea but i never had problems doing it this way.
i did once put too much in and was blowing a lot of smoke out the back, luckily i had only about 1/4 tank left and just filled it up which leaned out the 2 cycle. main reason i did this was because i never trusted the OMP cable attacked to the RB Holley... and less crap in the motor ftw! |
Originally Posted by mmasid
(Post 2166615)
I noticed that Amsoil makes synthetic 2 stroke oil. I've never heard of synthetic 2 stroke oil before. Does anyone know if it's any better than the normal stuff?
just realized i quoted a 5 year old thread sorry guys |
For those that commented on the age of the thread, This still seems like a relevant topic, especially with so many of us proudly driving high-mileage rotaries.
It does seem logical to follow Mazda's recommendations, but with so many pre-mixing, I am naturally curious. After more than 300,000 miles on five different rotaries (two 12A's three N/A 13B's, my experience is religious oil changes with mineral-based 20W/50 works best. No carbon deposits, no flooding, rock-solid reliable performance. Its all the stuff around the mill that always seems to break.... |
The age of this thread doesn't matter, it's still relevant.
I'm still not sure how well the GSL-SE's take to being pre-mixed. I can see it on a carb'd car, but it seems like trouble on a fuel injection system. |
does anyone out there use the Lucas high performance 2 stroke, i have been using this for a few years, it seems to work very well, its a tcw-3, low ash, smokeless and claims to be environmentally friendly. from what I have researched about 2 stroke in a rotary is that a tcw-3, low ash 2stroke oil is the only way to go, roughly 1 oz/gallon is whats been keeping me going. I have also noticed that this oil is smokeless as claimed on the jug ( i mixed to the same ration with some el cheap o stuff and could notice smoke that was not usually there, once back on the lucas it cleared up) i have to special order it in 1 gallon jugs but 1 gallon lasts well long enough for another to arrive!
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Originally Posted by rxdash7
(Post 7903173)
It does seem logical to follow Mazda's recommendations, but with so many pre-mixing, I am naturally curious. .
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I purchased a few quarts of Idemitsu Rotary Synthetic Pre Mix. This shit is supposed to be engineered for Wankels.
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Like locopr1, I'm not suggesting anything, just reporting on what I do and reading about the experience of others
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Originally Posted by aussiesmg
(Post 7904457)
Originally Posted by rxdash7 View Post
It does seem logical to follow Mazda's recommendations, but with so many pre-mixing, I am naturally curious. . This negates a little thing called technology, things improve since our 1979 to 1985 cars were built, oils are not what they were back then. For the record, I use MODERN oil in my vehicles, not oil from thirty years ago. |
if you do the math your spending about $1 somethin' extra a gallon... damn.
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Originally Posted by 1stGenJake
(Post 8121591)
if you do the math your spending about $1 somethin' extra a gallon... damn.
Can oil metering pumps be rebuilt to assure they pump accurately and use the RB method to measure (what is it...2cc per min?) $3.85 per gal. + oil....damn is right. |
like 8 bucks a litre ish depending on the brand.
Not gonna lie, Probably would have a honda instead of an rx7 if I DD'd it. |
Originally Posted by mmasid
(Post 2166615)
I noticed that Amsoil makes synthetic 2 stroke oil. I've never heard of synthetic 2 stroke oil before. Does anyone know if it's any better than the normal stuff?
On that note, the better quality of oil, the better the performance: think about it!:smoker: |
I was just getting ready to ask if you could use the OMP and a separate reservoir for 2 stroke oil, or MMO. Glad to see other people have gone that way. It seems both safe and convenient to me. I hope I actually get around to doing it.
Tony Hansen - 1980 RX7 LS //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////// http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/o...ring_pump.html This site sells the pump that was mentioned above allowing you to use a separate reservoir to fill wit 2 stroke oil to burn in the chamber, as opposed to regular 4 stroke oil from the crankcase, or mixing with your gas. |
Originally Posted by 1stGenJake
(Post 8121591)
if you do the math your spending about $1 somethin' extra a gallon... damn.
That brings it up to 3.8 cents more a gallon. |
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