My 84 GSL-SE Project
 

Alright, picked this car up from a guy at work for $800. Car only has 112k miles on it, but its been sitting, from our best guess, 2001. I meant to take more pics of it before I put it in the garage because unfortunately I have to leave enough room for the fiancee to park her car, so I don't have much room.

When I went and looked at the car, the battery he had didn't have a good charge on it, but it allowed the engine to turn over and you could hear the compression. He said it would start up, but stall shortly after. That was the condition it was in when he bought it 3 years ago. He did say when it was delivered, it was started and pulled off the tow dolly and made it down his drive way. I trust his word on it. I figured $800 was a good price for a GLS-SE with an almost perfect body(2 small dents in it, hood and the panel in front of the hood)

I got it to my house this past weekend but didn't have a battery for it. Just got one today and heard it fire up for the first time...for about 3 secs and that was all it had. I plan on going through and replacing the normal maintenance items and go from there. I'm not running completely blindly in this project as I know the theory behind Rotary engines, but have never worked on them, still they don't intimidate me.

Anyways, here are the 2 pics I have of it at the moment. Plan to take more pics as I do more work to it. If anyone has any suggestions on its running issue, please feel free to chime in.

http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/n...4_172933-1.jpg
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/n...4_172925-1.jpg

Looks like a good starting point. What are your plans with the car?

Not a bad deal for $800. Keeping it stock or modding it?

gsl-se
 

I have a sunrise red 85 gsl-se with about 110,000 miles on it and i know my car inside and out they really are fun cars once you get them going. The gsl-se is like the hot rod of the first gens they are getting hard to find in good shape despite what others might tell you na rotary's when takin care of properly can last a really long time. So if you need any questions answered i give it my best shot just send me a pm and i'll do all i can to help.:icon_tup:

Currently the plan is just to get it running and on the road. If it wasn't a GLS-SE, i probably wouldn't have gotten it, not as big of a fan of the body style as I am the FC. But since it did have all the goodies, I can handle it.

Right now I just want to get it running so I can take my other car off the road and start fixing it, which is the black/white honda sitting behind it that recently got rear ended. I haven't thought as far into it if I'm going to just keep it stock, or if I'm going to upgrade it(the FB).

Today when I started it, it ran for about 3 secs and then died, wasn't able to get it started again after. I guess my next step is pull the plugs and make sure its not flooded or anything in the chambers.

If it was flooded, it wouldn't start.

What's the engine speed during those three seconds?

Maybe the fuel can't keep up? Weak pump or bad fuel filter?

I didn't get a chance to look at the engine speed. I do plan to check the fuel filter and the pump as well.

If it's revving high, you should check for an air leak between the airbox and the intake manifold.

Start form cleaning the tank out and changing fuel filter if it was sitting so long. if it sucks something up in the line it wont stay running. I had a similar scenario car has bin sitting for 8 years when i got it and it had a better portion of gas tank full of gas well when i dropped the tank it was full of grime and the fuel pick up was clogged up with it.

I had that same problem with mine. I ended up having to have the tank dipped.

Same for me with my prior SE. Car only had 29k on it and was clean as a whistle, but the tank was rotting from the inside. The new fuels blends are pretty unstable; it had turned to varnish, which promoted the problems as well. Ruined the fuel pump too.

Thats what I was thinking when he first mentioned the problem with it. I worked in a salvage yard for awhile and we ran the old gas from the incoming cars in the yard cars, after awhile it clogs the sock on the fuel pump and it has the same problems.

The main reason I mentioned removing the plugs was just to make sure there is nothing in the chambers from sitting, even though it has been started every once in awhile.

Thanks for the help guys, I will get to checking things as soon as I have time to do it...and get a real jack instead of a butterfly jack.

as for the tank cleaning go to home depot and get 2 gallons of muriatic acid same stuff they use to clean concrete with drop the tank put water to about half and then a whole gallon of acid and slosh it around fill the rest of the way with water and let it sit for a day or to. Pour it all out rinse with garden hose or a pressure washer if you have one handy if there's still stuff in there do it again. That what i did to mine anyways haven't had a problem since.

Alright, dropped the tank today, got some nasty looking fuel out of the fuel line and from there smelled like bad gas. Pulled the pickup out and the screen on the filter looked mostly clean, but none of the fuel that was in it would come out of it. Can you pick these up at the local parts store? I'm assuming it shouldn't hold the fuel like that.

And the fuel inside the tank actually looks clean, so they did drain the tank and put new fuel in.

hmm try the filter then. also make sure that the Fuel pulsation dampener is not leaking if it is it will run like crap they are prone to going bad it would be located on the fuel rail usual fix just get a fuel rail bolt form a second gen of the secondary rail thats what i did.

Still trying to find the pickup filter, but ordering a new fuel filter and spark plugs. I did pull the plugs today and they reek of old gas and still wet. The fuel I'm getting to the engine smells like old gas, while the gas in the tank is some what fresh. I'm still going to drain the tank and put some fresh gas in it, but its a little strange. I am also planning on replacing the rubber lines coming off the gas tank while I have it out.

A guy at work use to work on these and said he had to work on a lot of flooded ones and told me to check the oil and see if it smells like gas, guess what? it smells of old gas again. So I will get with him tomorrow about what steps he suggests on clearing it out.

the smell of gas is in oil is ussually a sign of failed oil control rings that the reason i ended up pulling my motor out. but yeah get all that old gas out of there and keep trying. As far as the pick up filter goes I had to make one up from a screen I had for a chemical sprayer since I had no luck finding one anywhere.

change the oil, flush the fuel system and check compression. if the compression is low no amount of time and money spent fuel related will make it start. pull the plugs out then spin it over with the starter and listen to the blasts of air coming out of the plug holes. should be even pulses from each. if any sound alittle weak, put some atf in it, turn it over, add some more, then let it sit for a day or so. could just be a stuck seal. make sure u have a very good battery for all this. a rotary engine that's been sitting for 9+ yrs, especially and se, can be a bitch to get started if it will. if compression is good i suggest having injectors cleaned and tested. great find and g/l getting it running.

also, what part of nc? if u haven't done so, get over to the SE section of the regional forums, especially the I77 & I44 crossroads thread. probably lots of ppl there that can help u out. those guys have a meet on the 2nd sun of each month.

I have learned that you are correct rotarycrazy, no one has the pick up screen. I am going to go to the part store at some point and see if I can make something work off another vehicle, something they keep in stock.

Like I said, it has started, for 3 secs and dies. I'm ordering new fuel filter, plugs, and air filter this weekend. Will change the oil and spin it over with the plugs out and check things then.

I live in North Charlotte, I40 is about an hr drive for me if I want to burn the gas for it, which will be the problem with meeting up there.

2hrs for me. i've made one meet and hope to make another before too long. sometimes u just gotta want to.

Nice wheels! Haven't seen those before.

Those are the stock wheels, they've just been painted.

Yes as far as I knew, they were stock wheels powder coated.

Alright, had a little delay in the fuel strainer issue. Guy at work found one online through RockAuto.com that said it would fit the 85, I was still skeptical, called Rock Auto to verify, which they called Ac Delco and verified, everyone said it would fit. Got it in the mail and what do you know, it doesn't fit. Got a full refund on it though and still have it to through in the pile of random stuff.

I did on the other hand find a fuel strainer that I made work, was the only one the parts store had that would fit over the pick-up tube. I got it from O'reily's, Part number is: FS202 There will be a small gap between the sock and pickup tube, I just used some plastic banding that was laying around to fill the gap and hold it on there. Probably not the best way to make it work, but it works.

Got the tank back up, changed the fuel filter, disconnected the fuel lines at the engine and was going to run the pump to clean out the lines...but the pump isn't getting any power. Ive tried looking in the Chiltons that I have for a fuse or something, but no help there. Any suggestions?

Check your trailing ignitor, it runs the tach and fuel pump relay. Those J109 ignitors are very expensive and go out often. You might find one at a junkyard with a bit of searching, or if there are any rotorheads in your area we usually keep a few spares lying around. Some of us even wire up gm hei ignitors, but there are many other threads on that subject.

Right now the HEI ingitors are beyond me, as I am still trying to wrap my head around the rotary as it is. How do I go about checking the ingitor?

I am a capable mechanic, just rotaries are a little new to me. I know the theory behind them, but still trying to figure it all out as I have no real orientation with it.

Great to know about the strainer. I will be buying this soon.

It takes a little modifying to work, but works. Also have to weasel it in the tank since the pickup area was designed for the little can. But it was the only thing I could find in stock at a parts store.

Also looking at the wiring diagram, the igniter has nothing to do with the fuel pump circuit. Im still tracking down the complete circuit, but the part of the circuit that shows the Circuit Opening Relay doesn't show any connection with the ignitor. It seems there are 2 sources of providing 12Vs to the fuel pump, I just have to find the diagram for that 2nd source. First thing I will do until I find it, I will end up checking that Relay and see what I'm getting from it.

The ignitors are little black boxes on the side of the distributor, across from the vacuum advance diaphrams. The one towards the radiator is leading, the one closer to the alternator is trailing. Pull your trailing plugs (the upper ones) and check for good spark. If you think the trailing ignitor is bad the easiest way to test is to switch them around, of course, then you wont have leading spark, but the car should have fuel pump and tach signal. Let us know what you come up with, Ben

Check your airflow meter, as if the computer thinks that it's closed, it will shut off your fuel pump.

It wasn't a question of where the igniters are located, they are not part of the circuit for the fuel pump.

I do not believe its the Air Flow meter because the pump doesn't kick on using the Short Connector either, which bypasses the AFM. I will probably check the relay tomorrow.

And with that, the carbed 12A man that can't read will retract his statement.

I do appreciate the help, wasn't trying to sound like a dick about it. Tracing the wiring diagram at first I thought more was involved than actually was, but then I remembered how to read them and its a pretty simple circuit.

Checked out the relay and wasn't getting any power through it. Used the Short Connecter again, this time with a piece of wire, and got it to switch and get power down to the fuel pump, which still is a no go. Not sure if the fuel pump is dead or has a dead spot, but will probably replace it. The only other thing I'm not sure is if its a problem getting a ground through the Air Flow meter that is keeping the relay from flipping, or if the other power source is the problem since I haven't found that part of the diagram yet.

Wow I didn't realize I've had this thing sitting in my garage this long.

Time to start working on it again. Upon looking at the wiring diagram and doing a facepalm, I think sneezix is right about the AFM. Fuel relay not kicking on unless you use the short connector and bypass the AFM, points everything at the AFM.

Still the fuel pump not actually kicking on makes me think the fuel pump is dead as well.

I have the dash out of the car now, heater core needs replacing. There is a nest of wires behind the radio that I get the fun of finding out where they go since it looks like the radio has its wires, not many though.

If anyone is in the area and would like to come have a look at it, give a little better insight on it, possibly have a beer, I welcome help. As I mentioned before, I know the basics on it, but not the ins and outs like I do my Civic I've been abusing for 11 yrs.

Update:

Replaced the fuel pump with a Walbro 255lph, which was a bigger pain in the ass than I expected. I still should change the outlet lines to -10AN instead of -8AN, but it is sealed and working. Changed the oil in it, old oil smelled like old gas. Once I got everything hooked back up, turned the key over and probably 3 secs later it was busy making sure there were no mosquitos in the neighborhood. I need to put more gas in it, but it idled on its own for about 5 mins before it ran out of gas.

I may end up needing to enroll the help of some more experienced rotary heads to get her running smoothly as right now it idles like its got a huge cam in it. I know it doesn't but easiest way I can explain it.

I still need to get a heater core for it and replace it and get the dash back in. I wanted so bad to get it off the wheel dollies and take it out for a short drive to see if it would clear up, but no shifter, steering column is loose and no steering wheel at the moment.

Anyway its one big step for it, hopefully I can get it on the road soon as my civic's transmission is driving me nuts.

i just replaced the heater core in my 84 SE and the first one i got leaked worse then the one i took out....anyway the only place i could find that had a core for it was oreilly's. Sounds like things are going in the right direction thou:icon_tup:

I haven't had this car long but have already given up on part stores actually having parts for this car. You can still pick up heater cores on any of the online stores so I just go there and order. Seems they are cheaper than I remember last time I looked them up.

Heater core came in the mail today, will hopefully have it in and the dash back in the car this weekend. Will get some more gas for it and have another go at it.

Bah! It wasn't the heater core that was leaking! Some jackass screwed up the lines coming out of the firewall and cracked the ever living shit out of them. After a couple attempts to make my own or fix the factory one I am now in the search for the shorter of the 2 that come out of the firewall.

are you talking about the small one that turns down at 90 degrees? if so i have an oem unit in stock

That would be the one. I know there is an 85 in a local pull a part, but trying to avoid going through pulling another dash out for that little piece.

Still no luck getting the line I need. I was going to go out to Pull a part and see if it was still on that car, but they crushed it before I got out there. I tried last week to get it started again and make sure it gets warmed up and try to clear out the smoke, but all I got was a click from the starter.

Almost to the point where I will get the dash back in, maybe fiddle with it a bit more and sell it.

Ok, I've had time to get motivated again to work on this thing. This past weekend I finally got the heater core back in. I still need to remove the evaporator housing again and redo the seals on the clamps that hold the 3 housings together, the factory stuff has crumbled away. Thats no biggy though, won't take long to do.

Next step is figuring out this mess:
http://i321.photobucket.com/albums/n...325_141200.jpg

Its not as bad as it looks though. It is a total of 5 wires: 1-Brown, 1-Green Yellow, 2-Red/Blue(splice is maybe 6" down the harness), 1-Red/Blue. There is a 12 gauge?(guessing here) ground wire that needs to be repaired as well.

I have tracked down what pins they are on the main connecters: X-04 and X-05 and I was able to figure out what 2 of them were glancing through the wiring diagrams. 1 was for the headlight circuit and I forgot the other. I need to get the diagrams printed out to really track this down.

I'm starting to believe someone had an alarm in this at some point with this mess of wires with the cut ground, along with 2 extra wires coming out past the plugs on the passenger door, I haven't checked the drivers yet.

When the wiring gets taken care of, I will see where I can take this and get it pull started as I think it locked up from running for a couple mins before.

Other things to 'expect' from having your 7 sit.
 

Be prepaired to have to change your brake master/slave cylinders as well as your clutch cylinders/line. Mine is an 84 gs with about the same miles and sat for the same amount of time. The failure was 'sudden,' messy, in the first two months of driving it and out while I was driving in both cases. I went though 2 gas filters in the first month, fuel stabilizer was used in a mostly empty tank in my case. GL on getting that engine running, be vigilant.

The brakes are already leaking, so I already expected to have to change all the rubber lines and everything.

The tank was surprisingly clean when I dropped it.

I have finally got the wiring diagrams printed out and I'm hoping I have 3 of the 4 wires traced and they all have something to do with lighting. The only one I'm having issues finding on the diagram is a Brown wire. This weekend I hope to dive more into it and hopefully find the issue here and get a plan to resolve it.

Once that is done, and thank you for reminding me, I get the lines replaced. I will find someplace I can haul the car and pull start it, as I don't think my neighborhood would appreciate it.

Alright, the cut wires...Overdrive switch and I believe the illumination lights for the shifter indicator and ashtray. The part that baffles me is why they were cut in the first place since it is a GSL-SE and those wires other than the ashtray illumination have nothing to do with anything on it. I will most likely make sure of the ashtray illumination light wire, rewire it and completely remove the other wires and reloom it.

I'm at it again and this time I plan to get the car running and on the road.

I had a friend come over and help me out with it today. I had thought the engine locked up because the starter was just clicking. Turns out the starter cable was just loose. Engine was turning over but wasn't even trying to start. Hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to it and was getting around 43 psi cranking it over, just under the minimum on a brand new fuel pump. We did some more testing, pulled the plugs out, disabled the ignition and fuel system and turned it over and a ton of fuel came out of the plug holes. So fuel pressure is low, but is flooding it out. Points us to the fuel regulator and/or injectors. We pinched off the fuel return line and viola we have pressure.

Does anyone know how to check the pressure regulator for vacuum or whatever? Seems all the reading I find on the fuel system, they leave this part out. If I have to pull the intake manifold to get down to it, I plan to go ahead and pull the injectors and get them cleaned as well. Cash is tight right now, so I can't just throw parts at it unless I come across them cheap.

I had the injectors on mine done at WitchHunter Performance WitchHunter Performance - Injector Cleaning & Flow Testing Services

I was really happy with the outcome.

Fpr changes fuel pressure based on manifold vacuum. Put a vacuum pump on it and the fuel pressure should change based on how much vacuum is applied.

Also a Walbro should be used with an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator such as an aeromotive. I'd recommend getting a stock fuel pump or an Aeromotive for your Walbro.

Also have the injectors cleaned. And verify there are no mouse nests in the intake manifold.

Does it look like the pullies were tampered with?