Originally posted by 82transam I will, I'm dumb enough too. I'll let everyone know how it is |
thanks
btw, how well exactly does the MMO stay mixed with the gas if you're not driving the car (and sloshing the gas in the mean time)... cause i put in like 6 oz with 6 gallons of gas, and it's sat in one place for a week or 2, and when i run it, it just spits out blue smoke (which it didnt do when it was running straight gas)? See ya. |
Originally posted by inittab Do you use 20w50? If so isn't that a bit thick for a turbo. Just curious. I normally use 5w-30 in the cooler spring and fall and 10w-30 in the summer heat. |
what grade would be good for a 12a? 10-30? 20-50? etc??? ive been using 10-30
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In so cal I bet 20w-50 is going to be better. I know up here in UT that 10w-30 is what almost everyone uses.
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I have run AMSOIL for 20 years and never caused a problem and even fixed a few. If you run AMSOIL you can stick to the lighter wieghts and not go to 20w50 even for high heat or load. ALL CAR MANUFACTURES said "NO" to synthetics for many years. Now many come from the factory filled with it and so do many "replacement" motors. I think people get too bound up in old "stories" that become "fact" as the years pass. I won't vouche for other brands, but I use AMSOIL in everything I keep and some of the cars I sell. Untill I personally see it do harm, I like the decrease in friction and heat, and the increased wear protection it affords. I do NOT however mix additives with it. If I think an engine needs something "extra" to clean it up for example, I will use the additive with regular oil, then switch to straight synthetic.
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MMO is great for trumpet players 'cause it smells like valve oil, one of the most addictive aromas known to man.
B |
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