how to: gm igniters replace j-109
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ok iv had trouble with my j-109s and read i can use these gm ones
i thought ild write up how iv done it since the j-109s are 300bucks new at a auto store and the gm ones are under 20 each. whats needed 2 wells ignition module for a 1979 chevrolet nova 8 female spade connectors 4 male spade connectors 4 .250" male spade connectors(not sure if thats correct easey to figure) wire or choice im usin 12gauge some heat sink grease(usally comes with the igniters) note im not psotive this works 100% this was my resort to get my car runnin so i take no resposability and also any helpfull info or suggestions or just plane comments are fully welcome 1st step take dizzy out take the j-109s off i mounted the gm modules onto the dizzy )not sure its a good idea you could mount to a plate somewhere for beat heat transfer but i thought ill try it like this and see how it works) ok for the leading as you see in the first picture it pretty much explanes it i used the mitzi screw and put it to the top hole with w&g up top but first apliy the heat sink grease to the igniter and the mounting position for assurance. trailingi mounted w&g down bottom with the screw down bottom aswell its the only way i could get it to fit also i had to bend the tabs 90degrees also for fitting purposes dont forget the grease step 2 wiring as you see self explanitory main things you have to take note is on the igniters theres 4 tabs b,c one side and w,g on the other g-red on the distributor(remove steal cap off dizzy to see the wires) w-green on the distributor as i understand reds negitive and green is positive use the .250" conneters and fold the spade in half to make a tight fit on the dizzy this applys to both leading and trailing for b&c on the igniters b=positive c=negitive so obivosuly black wire from coil is positive and yelow is negivtive wire up make sure wires dont hit the pullys and makes sure they dont touch together or earth:) well i hope ya can understand my lingo iv got a headache so i hope its clear ill be glad to anwser anything ohh yeah most of all hehe my cars runnin better my tach actually works now i can also get my revs down under 1000 but im still tunnin as i have a stumble:) maybe due to my igniters or maybe just timing or a/f ratios thanks chris |
Good job. Now get yourself one more HEI and another coil and try DLIDFIS. You'll be glad you did. :)
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Jeff, I have a question on your write up regarding the DLIDFIS. I had a member PM me about it and ask how many ignitors needed to be gutted when using all J-109 ignitors. My answer was only the one on the dizzy for the leading because all it did, being gutted, was act as a pass through for the signal to the other 2 ignitors, so they could fire seperate coils.
Is that correct? |
yes, i was also looking for that awnser also a few days ago. I wonder if it was me that asked. I found out that if there good you don't need to gut any ignitors. You only gut ignitors if there bad. You can branch off the dizzy with a couple of grinded male spade connectors and then feed the 2 ignitors. This is what I should be finishing later today.
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What drunkclever said. Never gut an ignitor unless it's dead.
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Yea, It was drunckclever that asked. This is finally starting to make sense for my electrically challenged brain. I may try this instead of the 2nd gen coil setup I'm running, which doesn't seem quite right.
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This is the type of thread I always save for future reference. I go under 'thread tools' and select 'show printable version'. I then copy and paste the whole thing into a Wordpad document. I then copy and paste all the pictures into the same document.
Thanks blwfly |
your welcome i explained as much as i could
i hope it was readalbe im gonna go play with my car some more and play with my new 10 .22 i brought for some fun so how honeslty can we know the igniters are bad ? just plain no spark |
Both the FSM and Haynes have a lovely little test setup you can make to test them.
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Just to add in here, to make this more durable/reliable, eaither get the connectors without any insulation, or remove it from the ones you have and solder them on, and the heat shrink as much as you can.
You'll all thank me in the end for it. |
yep i agree on that one iv just done this as a tempory to get the car goin still deciding what to do as i have not seen any facts to how the gm igniters effect compared to origanl j-109s
i may try the dflis with the gms since i have spare one i thought dont go but maybe it does and i have two spare coils but whatever i did i couldnt get my car to stop stumbling its not bad just noticable ild say its fluxing 100-300revs dont ask why but i see that i havnt got the vaccum tubes up for the dizzy could this affect my idel and also can i just t both to one souce on the carb spacer i think its the 3rd nipple in from the radiator side |
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im gonna try the nova igniters on directfire
ill leave the j109 on trailing for the tach the 1st pic below is how it will be and mounts to the strut horizontal how can i mount the 3rd coil the the strut? the 2nd pic is the diagram i am following and what exsactly is the igniton swith the diagram is refering to |
Call for this to be stickied, nice job.
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Originally Posted by Jeff20B
What drunkclever said. Never gut an ignitor unless it's dead.
BS. If you have lots of igniters, then why not. |
Then why not send some to me instead. :)
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or me thats why im doing this
i got 4j109s but 1s gutted 1 gives no spark one gives resistance both ways and one works lol |
ok just to let ya know how it went
the car run but very rough and any accelleraton was very difficalt and when reves got up a lil it back fired flames lol but theres no loss now iv got all the wires cut to length the j109 dilfids should be very easey just need some cash:) ohh and what a shame i think i blew one of my new accel coils gotta fine me reciet and get another:) |
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
Then why not send some to me instead. :)
Jeff & Bflywl, Send me a SASE and I will share my junks. In fact, this past weekend, I got tired of pulling dizzy and pocketing the igniters. Jeff, you got to move to SOCAL. We're surrounded with junkyards. There are at least a dozen within LA Counnty. :) |
This really NEEDs to be added to the thread. Switch around the G and W around like jeff20b said: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/i-did-gm-igniter-mod-need-help-asap-654018/
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My stepfathers '79 needs ignitiors ('82 engine & dizzy), so I'm going to do a quick HEI swap on it while I'm in town for Christmas. I made a diagram of what I plan to do based on this thread--can anyone confirm it's correct? There seems to be a bit of confusion about which way the G/W trminals hook up. Thanks!
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I can't remember. It's one way or the other. I had to look up some old pictures when I hooked up my friend's rotary baja.
Why stop at an ignitor upgrade? Why not do DLIDFIS? |
Originally Posted by Jeff20B
(Post 7657184)
I can't remember. It's one way or the other. I had to look up some old pictures when I hooked up my friend's rotary baja.
Why stop at an ignitor upgrade? Why not do DLIDFIS? exactly. thats what I have been telling everyone but I guess they are satisfied with a FC leading coil. |
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