Which holley is best for 12A Streetport
 

Thinking of getting holley and two different sets of jets, one for daily driving and the other for track.

Would the psi difference from stock fuel pump be a big enough to change as well?




Also off topic, what tires do you suggest for track? I'm running 15x5 and 16x7 right now, but not sure if all four tires need to be same size for track.

Find a 450cfm holley. You will need jet sizes 60-65.
You will also have to modify the carb to make it run properly.
Custom pump cam
Air bleeds
Trans slot
Jet extensions
Floats.

Stock pump will work for getting around town but an old tired pump shouldn't be trusted on a powerful engine. Tuned properly expect hi 13s street ported.

I offer free help to anyone who wants it.

I know youre automatically not going to believe me because im going to tell you things you dont want to hear, but holley carbs on 12A's are not ideal. And even street ported they arent clicking off any kind of 13 second pass. :scratch:

I built a half bridge with a mild nitrous shot that could deliver low 13's consistently using a holley and it wouldnt have been anything youd like to drive on the street.

And 60-65 jets like above suggested is HUGE for a 12a, especially considering RB uses 49 on stock ports with hogged out air bleeds.

Also, the only "450" holley ever built was a 4160 designed for dual carb applications. It has all the same problems that an RB 465 has and more. Its mech secondary with no secondary pump squirter. Think sterling carb with no acc. pump mods flat spot.

Id recommend an hp390 if youre dead set on a holly, seeing as its ready for any kind of tune youd want with fully exchangeable bleeds EVERYWHERE as well as center hung fuel bowls and billet blocks. It also has the damn secondary pump squirter that you should have in a mech secondary carb.

And if youre worried the 390 will be too small, know this: The 390 cfm 4160 and the 450 cfm 4160 use the same mainbody and boosters. How does one flow 70 more cfm than the other?? It doesnt.

Normally i'd suggest avoiding all of that crap and just buy the RB, but the last 2 I bought from them were junk and ran very poorly in anything but perfect conditions. I wound up totally recurving one because they did a piss-poor job on the primary airbleeds, in addition to the PV circuit being totally unresponsive to tuning. The other had a "factory defect" in the mainbody; a crack in between the low and high speed air bleeds on one barrel, making it run bad all the time.

In my opinion those things never really run "right" because of the how poorly the float levels react in even normal driving. So you can tune it perfect to run on a dyno and make horsepower (like RB), and still have a car that spits and sputters and misses during daily driving. And dont forget the lean condition rotor 1 gets under accel. during drag racing with a holley style 4bbl.

TLDR: "None"

Does anyone here use a 12a Holley from RB without any issues? My kit from RB arrives tomorrow and I was hoping for a reliable daily driver with that carb.

I did 20 years ago. Bought it used, rebuilt it, never had any issues. Seems like a long time ago now. I'll still take my modded Nikki, however.

^ I had an older one way back when I was in high school that besides stripped fuel bowl bolt was pretty good. I never had the problems with that dirty old used one that I had with their new product.

What do you mean by trans slot? Is streetport similar to the stress caused by turboing?

It's an aftermarket pump, though it's similar to the psi as the stock.
Haha, not planning to rev it past 8k yet. I want to treat my engine a little nicer than that. (for now)


I know you're automatically not going to believe me, because I'm going to tell you things you don't want to hear.

But I don't care too much about speed, it's a street car.
Pretty sure streetport is made specifically for the street, otherwise like your thoughts are trailing, I would want to get a 13B bridge port, EFI with turbo.

Primarily I'm looking to go a bit cheap, otherwise I'd probably fully swap to EFI and open up to the possibility of turbo'ing. Everyone tells me turbo on a carburated engine is unrealistic.

Thanks a lot for your advise though, even if it might be directed towards drag-chat. I'm just a daily driver man.

To clarify: by track, I meant autocross track.

I think you helped me a lot with my nikki 4 months ago, I thank you a ton for that. I had a lot of stupid hiccoughs from that. My nikki is good, emission free (woo florida) but not sterling good yet. Plus the guy that ported my engine told me nikki would never be good enough for a 12a streetport. so heavily thinking on a holley (due to cheapness) versus webber, since webbers you can't repair parts, you have to replace the whole carb.

Arcolithe, I'm installing my Holley kit today so I'll let you know how it runs.

What I said about float level control will only be worse for autocross. Thats why the Holley gets a bad rep. Its a "street" carb as delivered from RB with a ton of mods and its not really good at drag/autocross as a race carb.

Like I said, even driving through town and regular cornering caused huge rich/lean conditions and medium to heavy braking caused flooding. I tried everything to make one as drivable or as reliable as a stock nikki, and I wasted thousands chasing it. End the end, I had a pretty nice carb that ran very well. But at what cost? 14 MPG, short life of gaskets (frequent carb rebuilds) very cold blooded, poor low end, very rich idle, needle and seats sticking often, and it just didnt excel anywhere. If I went to the dragstrip I would lean out rotor 1 beating it down the track, and taking it to the local autox meant having the engine practically shut off in hard left corners. And very lean in hard right corners. It was only good for street driving, and it could never hold a candle to a proper nikki in that respect.

I wasnt suggesting EFI, Turbo, or any of that crap. I like carbs, and I love 4bbls. You want cheap? Try http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-18049/overview/
Overall better design than the holley, and its cheaper too. With better fuel control.

Also, a "street port" doesnt mean its only for the street. Most track cars run it so they dont have to run the extra weight thats required for a bridgeport.

So if this is a mostly track car, youre heavily hindering real track performance by going holley. Even the Edelbrock I linked wont be great there, but at least youll be able to put up with it on a day to day basis.

Or you could waste countless hours of your own time and all of the thousands to go with it to come to the very same conclusion! If you want a track only car, youre going to need a track only carb. AKA huge 2bbl (with proper float bowl design) optimized for high rpm signal and not much else.

Its your project so good luck and do post your results.

I need to post some videos.
I seem to be the only one who knows how to modify the holleys to work on rotary.
I average 17-18mpgs have econo driven 20.4. I pass delaware emissions so with a cat I'm under 200HC idle and hi idle. My car start and idles smoothly takes hard turns and drives like a normal car.

If you want real help pm me your number. If you live near delaware you can hire me. Some day I'll do a full build write up so everyone understands what I'm doing, how I did it and why it works.

And yes my carbs are far better than racing beat carbs.

Well, I installed the racing beat exhaust and RB holley today and It turns out my my street ported motor is not ported at all. We went ahead and installed the holley anyways and drove her home. The car is running a bit rich cause the RB was tuned for a SP 12a, but it's running pretty good anyways. I guess now, I'll just have port my spare motor and it should run perfect.

lets see some sexy pics. I always love seeing new car parts on a relic

I live in Miami beach, but would love to see some videos man.

Well, I was planning to make it both street and track, hoping that I can just switch out the jets for going track versus going street.

Holley float adjustment.

You need jet extensions and nytrophil floats.
Use a drill press to notch the floats for the extentions but don't drill all the way through the float.
Seal the float with permatex, I use Honda bond hi temp.

Set ur float level so low it won't trickle out of the sight hole.

The higher your float level the higher the chance of it flooding your motor in a turn. If its too low you risk a lean condition but that's not normally the case.

What makes you think it's not ported ?

Just for starters buy a pink pump cam and bolt it to the white cam using the #3 hole. Shave off the pink cam until it is the same max hight of the white cam. Use a #28 long nose shooter. The white cam waste a huge amount of fuel and you lose throttle response. The pink cam #3 hole is perfect low end but is too many CCs over all , that's why you have to shave it down. Use a bench grinder and a steady hand.

You should PM me your number.

Your idle circuit controls the first 3000rpm. Your primaries don't take effect until more air is passing through at higher rpm. Your trans slot on any motor has to be visable under the throttle blade at idle. If you holley is new off the shelf and you adjust idle for 1600rpm or less tgis slot will be covered resulting in a very lean condition as you increase throttle.

After you extend the trans slot the the idle air bleeds need to be tuned. A smaller air bleed will cause you car to get richer as rpms increase. A larger air bleed leaner. A proper sized air bleed will maintain constant a/f ratio.

Mechanical secondaries on a rotary is fun to drive and will use 1 primary pump cam ground to a small size. No need for 2nd pump cam. Rotaries need very little assistance from the accel pump at low rpm to compensate low volosity.

Well, the intake and exhaust ports where stock. that's for sure. The reason I bought a RB carb, was so that I wouldn't have to mess with it. I think once I port the motor, it will run just fine. Runs pretty decent now.

Do you sell Ghost modified Holleys?

Not yet. I haven't been sure of the market so I haven't invested into it.

I'm working on a bridge port carb for a guy right now. Just waiting on his fuel sytem so we can start tuning.
This is my first bridge port tune so I can see how different the carb setup is. I don't think it will change much.

Lol. Well let the messing begin, because I went through the same shit twice each a decade apart. And if its NOT a sp motor, put an 8.5 PV in the fucker and a 49 main jet like RB woulda sold it to you like and be done with it. Its the only difference.

Also, to this self proclaimed holley pro here has absolutely no idea what kind of experience hes doubting. Ive been toying with these things longer than you have even been able to walk. Further, I've been modifying these and selling them commercially since before you even created your account, so don't sit here and offer "real help" to anyone like you just are the authority that gives out properitary knowledge from tuners away.

Either you want to SOUND like you know what youre talking about or you are flat stupid for giving away what people are willing to pay $$$ for.

Either way, if someone in here is going to claim that a modded holley or even non modded holley will be an ideal carb or "cheap" for the autocross youre flat full of shit and need your damned head examined. Or better yet, go try to re-invent the wheel like everyone else seems to and ignore the advice of those who really have the experience and fail at it. Then take it to some tuner and pay them to fix it! Thats 90% of my income, so keep it coming.

Have fun with your "cheap" holley 4bbl auto-x car that gets lapped by stock rx7's.:egrin:

You cant simply change jets and fix the terrible fuel bowl design to give you a consistent fuel level in driving. The bowls face the fenders so even light cornering can uncover the jets and make it stall or sputter. The fix for this isnt cheap at all, as it requires very special float bowls designed just for these types of configurations. And no, im not talking about center hung bowls. Im talking about dual needle bowls made for road racing with oversized seats and anti slosh foam and baffles in place. They cost hundreds just for the parts to make the swap....

Street strip requires two different carbs. If its a serious strip

Vids please!
 

Please do post some vid's and a bit of additional info, even short of a full write-up. I'm rather curious, as I have a RB Holley sitting in my parts bin waiting to be put on my stock-ish DD '83 GSL. I picked it up from a chap on the board here, used, but haven't tossed it onto my baby just as of yet, as my Rx7 is my most reliable car. Other projects tend not to start all the time, but a guy has to get to work more days than not to keep a few cents coming his way in order to afford the toys, afterall.

what's a street strip?
like de-emission or?

at that point it's cheaper to go EFI, you would say?

Well I did build an entire EFI system for my DD 12a stockport using a wrecked GSLSE. Cost me like 320$ total invested including the NEW Rb lower sidedraft mani required to do the swap. I also bought 2 45 DHLA dells for 300 bucks, rebuilt 1 and put it on the track car. Still have the other and will probably get all my money back selling it. Both cheaper than buying ANY damn holley and way better at pretty much anything. MPG, Torque, hp, fuel stability, and ease of tuning.

Not to mention a nice stripped nikki cost 200$ tops and would actually be decent on a roadcourse...

You can not road race a holley 4bbl if it is mounted sideways like the RB manifold requires. If mounted correctly like holley intended, the fuel control would be much better, and the floats would actually lean as designed.

The only holleys ever designed to be run sideways in high g load situations are $$$ and built by "tuning" companies for die hard dual 4bbl guys in vintage race cars like the one I work for. If you think you can afford to have AED make your holley a road race carb, you might as well buy EFI.

Or go to china and give Quick Fuel a call, if you refuse my advice. They build stuff cheaper than we or holley, but its also milled in china and they use "universal" tunes. Meaning your oddball sidemount 4150 flange wouldnt be covered.

Want vids of an AED on a 12a? On a roadcourse? Compared to a friggin holley? Or even RB-modified holleys? It would be obvious right away which is suited for the job. I know technical data and real experience mean nothing to you, so maybe if I put it in the form of a youtube link youll understand...

You really do have no idea what youre talking about here. The "pink" cam was designed to deliver a short burst of a shot for a low vac multi-carb app. Its uncommon to use even for us. Further, it still uses the entire 30cc acc pump at full stroke. In another thread you told a member he needed a 50cc acc pump. Whats the deal here? Now youre saying 30cc is too much?

So you think for someone not too comprehensive with carburated systems, that I should stick with the RE-EGI from the GSLE?

If it really only costs $320, and I'm guessing $50-70 for someone to tune it to a streetport 12A, that would be perfect for me. I don't think I can eyeball problems with a carburater by how it bogs down, or jutters. It's bad enough that I have no idea what the Lean/Rich mixture does (just reading up on guides, I turn it clockwise until it chokes, then half a screw backwards so it breathes nice)

but I can tell the streetport on my nikki is gasping for air. (no top)

The GSLSE system is easy, and for your street port im not even sure youd have to tune it. I bolted one on to a stockport 12a using the stock tune and ECU and drove off into the sunset, literally.

at WOT my stockport is about 12.4:1 and cruising it stays around 13.4:1 no matter what I do with it. Stock tune, light mods throughout. Gets almost 325 miles to a tank highway, 260 city driving. Wayyyyy better than my Dell that gets 200 to a tank no matter how im driving it. The Dell does make more power though, the GSLSE system is kinda restrictive with the tiny stock AFM.

Id recommend trying it though, it makes for a fun little FB.

No pump cam from holley is correct for the rotary. You need to start with a cam that has a lot of plastic to work with. I have made a few cams from brown but have found the easiest way is to take a pink cam #3 hole screw it to a white cam and grind it from a 30cc to 15-20cc. Easiest way to get good results over the phone.

Wankel=awesome

I have working reliable carbed rx7 that corners and passes emissions.
You ask people to take ur advice after you tell them you can't make a carb run properly.

You are a major chode and can't match my skill.

I make lots of carbs run properly. Anything branded "Holley" is typically a zinc casted vacuum leak out of the box. You are full of misinformation and nonsensical garbage. Like your advice to cut the .20 xferr slots larger than their already huge size in comparison to any other blade corrected circuit carb. But then again you probably have no idea what that means, so ill make it easy for you: If a 427 cubic inch nascar "cammer" doesnt need larger than .20, neither does a friggin 70 cubic inch rotary. If you tune your transition this way, youre doing it wrong. Proper booster size, emulsions staging, float drop and low speed air entry are how you tune the fuel supply when the blade is passing over those slots. Its not about making the hole bigger for flow, its about speeding the rate through the hole up for the desired effect. Cutting this slot ruins the circuit cutoffs where the booster signal should peak, and be taken over by the emulsions channels and venturi fed fuel.

Further, the only thing that makes our engines that black magic voodoo "different" is how they signal vacuum. Its not even hard to get around. Curve the boosters to suit the signal by tuning the air bleeds, and correcting fuel supply with the main jets. Fine tune the curves height at different RPM's with the emulsions well in sequence with float drop. Rule of thumb: Top of well=lower rpm or lowest fuel demand. Bottom of well: Highest RPM or highest fuel demand. Why do you think they tell you to run 6 psi in a holley carb when the needle and seat will hold up to 14 PSI? BECAUSE ITS A BLADE CORRECTED, FLOAT DROP EMULSIONS CIRCUIT CARB. The bowls dont stay full at all times, so holley actually PREDICTED and INTENDED float drop with their design. Which is another reason your tune is flawed. Running the bowls below the desired height results in parts of the emulsions well not even covered up, meaning you lose critical power band adjustability. The lower fuel level thing is a last resort circle track trick, kinda like the cutting of the xferr slot. It might have the desired effect, but its kinda like hammering a finishing nail in with a sledge; you figure out what that means.


The difference between you and I, is you have zero road course experience and I do. Holley carbs while simple and modular are not road racing carbs. The ones that are are highly specialized and fine metering devices(and nowhere is the brand name "holley" printed on them). And nothing about properly built carbs for this is cheap. Our cars mount the damn things sideways, which is a compromise to their design making the task of proper float levels and fuel slosh nigh impossible.

And if you want to tune how much fuel is used for the acc. pump, why not adjust it to not fully depress the diaphragm? Or perhaps change the channel restriction to a smaller size? Maybe try a smaller shooter? When the hell have you ever seen anyone chop up a pump cam? Those arent to determine acc. pump shot cc's, those are to change how quickly or late the shot comes in. The pink cam would start its shot almost immediately and use the full accel pump not 30% into a full stroke.

I think you just dont know what a "proper" running carb actually is. I'm trying to help the OP save money and actually meet his goals. You are sending him down a nightmarish tuning fiasco for a carb that isnt ideal at even atomizing fuel, let alone g-load track driving.

Sounds like u read the books and failed to comprehend any of it. Why do you hate holley the best choice in carbs and doubt someone who get positive results.

And u clearly don't understand cutting the trans slot. Last time I say it to you. The average carb tuner can get power from holley but not street ability. The problem is so simple I can't believe so many have missed it. Read any holley book it will tell you the trans slot has to be visable below the throttle blade. People get in trouble when they set the idle and the trans slot get covered. When driving down the road the trans slot is uncovered causing a pressure drop in the idle circuit. This is why you get a lean condition from idle to 3500 rpm. The simple fix is to set the idle first then extend the trans slot so you don't get the pressure drop off idle. The idle air bleed sits above trans slot that's why making it smaller will force more fuel in to the idle cuircut, so you can make the car run richer with more throttle or leaner with more throttle or hold a steady air/fuel. Once you under stand the system you can really do some precision tuning.

I have never seen anybody with a more street able holley car on a rotary. Even my plugs look good. And anybody who wants more out of there holley can give me a call..

Or they can call you buy a webber which is more expensive then efi or a edlebrock like you suggested which great for v8 guys who need something good out of the box because they don't have the skills to tune BUT IS GARBAGE ON ROTARY. Or they can buy the racing beat carb with its big airbleeds and small jets. The white cam it comes with is so aggressive the fuel pours out the squirter as you drive because of road vibration. Probably why they used such a small jet. The racing beat carb came with 50jets the stock version from holley came with 58jet. And mechanical secondary is the only way to go.

You are a major chode who admits to failing with the easiest carb to work with that give amazing results when tuned properly. Keep reading and maybe someday you will understand LOL GOOD LUCK SIR.

yeah but arguments aside, how much tuning does a holley need to make it work on a rotary engine (to be both street-able and track) it sounds like you need to hack a holley big time, and as a first time carburator tuner, I do not think to possess those skills unless there was a DIY image set. The nikki seems a bit more easier (cheaper to find and replace in case I create a hack job of the first carburetor) than a holley.

and as I googled holley, it might come with a trans slot, unless you are talking about making it bigger, or adjusting the size of the butterfly on the carb.
http://c564296.r96.cf2.rackcdn.com/A...h10-1011ae.jpg

Thanks for both of your guys input (despite banter)

and honestly, this is one of the strongest points wankel brought up which makes me question holley.

how do you fix this problem?

All carbs have their limits in the corners, but their limits are much higher than you would expect. My carb is very stable and is so good I occasionally do some rain drifting and will power slide out of a turn without a problem. As for the carb being mounted sideways this isn't a issue because it needs to perform well accelerating, braking and cornering. When you use the jet extensions the fuel pick up is now in the center of the bowl so it doesn't matter which way it is facing.

As for the tuning, no it is not easy but it is possible. Even experienced people seem to struggle with rotary tuning. If you live near a good rotary tuner you should probably work with him. If you do decide to go carb go holley, affordable parts and me to help will get you the best results.

Using a 2 barrel carb is a terrible idea very expensive. When driving a four barrel you're only using two barrels around town, but because the total cfm is divided by 4 barrels the venturi signal is much stronger. I can also press in dbl step boosters for you that provide better response, and you will love the feel when the mechanical secondaries open.

If you're not going to buy holley go efi.
PM me your number. Ill would like to show you something.

Anyone here ever wonder why Sterling no longer builds carbs or gives advice? I don't.

I ran a RB Holley with a lot of luck on a large street port 12A.

The 465 cfm that RB uses is the way to go. The carb came out of an old tbird and is still made, it is a 4160. RB removed the power valve (Holley sells a kit) and installed #49 jets. That is basically it. I'm located at almost 7000 feet so I needed to re-jet primaries as well at the accelerator pump nozzle. I had my car tuned on a dyno which was a huge help but it can be done without it. If you want it perfect, it is best to have a wideband.

Instead of buying the carb from RB, Buy RB's intake, throttle cable bracket, and heat shield. Get everything else from Holley. Get a Holley 465 (PART #: 0-1848-1), center hung bowl kit (no problem with fuel starvation)(PART #: 34-2), electric choke conversion kit (PART #: 45-223), POWER VALVE PLUG & GASKET (PART #: 26-36), quickchange vacuum secondary housing cover (PART #: 20-59), and secondary diaphragm spring kit (PART #: 20-13). You can get it all at Summit Racing or Jegs.

It was a lot of work but in the end it would start up without a problem even in the dead of winter. It ran great, idled great, no sputtering, etc.

Holley was a great resource. They have great customer service. Tons of info on there site explaining tuning (nothing rotary specific) Holley Performance Technical Service Department

or just buy a 280 dollar edelbrock that doesnt have any of the holley probs in the first place and THEN spend your money having it tuned. Airflow is airflow, the "465" actually moves less air than the holley hp390, which has been proven time and again.

Edelbrocks have a slightly smaller primary than secondary, which makes sense and is familiar to us seeing as the OEM 4bbl's were designed that way. He wanted a "cheap" autox carb, and I will say it again, it is NOT. And I ran center hung bowls on every one of my carbs and they still had starvation issues in hard cornering. On the FB mine would see lean peaks in street driving on roundabouts and exit ramps.

Street ports actually make the low end signal to the booster slightly choppier and is worse for the holley. RB gets around this by doing custom air bleeds and BLOCKING OFF the top circuits of the emulsions well. I can post pics of their cobbled metering blocks and then go through a technical spreadsheet on the fuel curve they made and how the mods they made to the metering block helped them get there, but everyone else on this forum who as ever adjusted the idle mixture on a holley carb or put a couple thousand miles on one is a holley autocross pro, so you all know that anyways. :blush:

Right?

you know I'm sticking with the thunder series =)
but which $280 edelbrock carb do you recommend? honestly there are so many different kinds, I do not know which exact 500 CFM to get, other than it being a 4barrel, preferably electric choke and square bore.

either way, still a few weeks till I have enough money for the set up =)

Oh no!
You're actually going to buy a carb wank=awesome recommends. Why?
This guy did his homework and failed the test. 13sec bridge port with NOS LOL!
Can't handle city driving yet he built it with all his wisdom and knowledge for the race track LOL

He said float level was too low exposing the first emulsion hole on my meter block and failed to realize this hole is uncovered as soon as you hit the gas lol.
Wankel=awesome As vacuum increases fuel level in the emulsion well decreases similar to dropping the bowl fuel level.

Wankel=awesome "u've been doing this for ever squeezed out a whopping 13sec out of a bridge port with NOS that cut out around every corner on the way home from the track because you don't know how to adjust a holley float bowl LoL

You are ready to tell someone to buy an edelbrock not because you"be built am awesome car with one but because you think it will be a good carb.
No wait you said "even the edelbrock I linked wont be great but you will be able to live with it ona day to day basis" LOL
I can also explain why .49 jet will only work in a racingbeat carb, but I would never build a carb that way.

Rotaryawesome =chode


I sent a couple of you my number I'm having trouble posting my vids so I will send them to one of you. You guys should really call me and take advice from someone who get powerful results from years of experience. I've been doing this sense 2000.

just buy a weber. I use my RB Holley as a paper weight! lol

can you pm me all the info ?

When racing beat closed the top port on the metering block it boosted signal to the main jets, this is why they are jetted with .50 instead of .58. With the emulsion hole blocked no air is mixed with the fuel before leaving the booster.

As the rpms and vacuum signal increase the the fuel level in the emulsion well drops until the lower hole is uncovered allowing air to mix with the fuel. This would cause a lean condition with mechanical secondaries but the racing beat version works with the vacuum secondaries to balance this out. Its a poor way to tune a carb.

Mine is (are) also a paper weight(s).

Hilarious you would say I "failed the test" to make one a proper auto-x carb, as I've never seen one hang with webers or even stock nikkis on lap times at mid ohio.

It would seem everyone failed that test, including Racing Beat.

Which would mean you claim to be the only "auto-x" holley/12a combo for under 2k$.

Either way, just like the people who have wasted years of their lives testing and tuning and working the flow bench and charts and metering curves etc. before me, I give up on this community. Every piece of knowledge or experience I put here is shot down by a ricer wannabe race car driver or self proclaimed "pro" with no real leg to stand on.

Im deploying soon, and I have no time to argue with kids about mixing fuel with air.:blush:

I had the Racing Beat 550 and intake for the 4 port 13B in the mid eighties. The only problem I had was the oil being dumped into the float bowl and after time it would clog the jets. What I did was drill two holes in the intake plate and slide two brass 1 inch hollow rods in and I ran the oil lines into them. The oil would drip into each rotor below the carb. Never had another problem.

That car hauled ass back in the day. Loved that car!

Pretty irrelevant info in regards to this thread or discussion.

No it isn't and nobody asked you for your two bit opinion.

Pretty irrelevant info in regards to this thread or discussion.

Now, by clicking quote to answer this question (which isnt what the thread or discussion is about at this point) I can answer it with your reply:

There, now it isnt a random post about a joyful memory of a properly working "550 RB carb" that they never built for a 12a (note thread title) in the first place.

Glad I could help!

ugh this guy is a ass.
My rx7 holley is great and you hate it. Hi 14's from a tired old s4 motor that has to push 17' rims which killing my 1/4 time. 2nd gear goes to 85mph. And I don't have any of the problems you describe while driving in the city or making sharp turns. Even when the rear is sliding out my engine never skips a beat.

Then I'm kind enough to tell you how I did it and you tell me its all wrong, WOW what a ass.

Arcolith You need to contact me.

Do you think you can buy the stock computer, wiring harness, sensors, EFI Fuel pump, new fuel lines, Fuel pressure regulator, manifold adapter and anything else I might of forgotten for $350 bucks. That's LOL

Apparently if Wankel can't do it it's Not possible and no one on the face of the earth can because he said so. What an arrogant asshole internet bully. Just because you are old doesn't mean you know shit. Ghost is trying to be polite and helpful and you are just plain being a dick with personal attacks. If you told me a can't do something that I already did I wouldn't respect or believe another word outta your mouth. Obviously you are in the military and think that you can boss everyone around. Try using some etiquette and you might actually earn some respect vs demanding it.