Harder engine mounts?
 

Hi, I dont come in this section often but I have a friend with a GSL-SE. He was wondering if someone makes competition motor mounts for his car. We checked with mazda trix and they said that they didnt know of any for that generation rx7. Has anyone ever bought any?? Thanks

Someone I seen sells them, it was like mazdaspeed, or mazdacomp, someone help me out here. I cant remember where I seen them.. Maybe try mariahmotorsports.com

The people here will just tell you to use a torque brace. I, however, am going to go with solid motor mounts in my non RX-7 rotaries. Something about solid motor mounts in 1st gens and less grip in the front end? At least I won't have to worry about it. Where's peejay when you need him?

I made some from delrin, haven't tested them yet though. I fear they will be much stiffer than what I was going for.

hey I took mine out two days ago an I'm thinking about using solid plastic stock.

I heard that solid engine mounts tend to crack the front cover, is this true?

thanks for the input guys :bigthumb: I'll tell him about the tourque brace. Maybe one of those and some new stock mounts will do the trick. Any more suggestions?? Thanks alot :)

Anyone have any info on this??

People say that it might happen, but I haven't seen or heard of a specific case where it actually happened. I think it's just a nasty rumor spread by people who love mushy rubber mounts.

The mushy mounts in my REPU are so bad that my oil pan twists over and hits the crossmember. This ended up ripping one of my exhaust hangers completely through and severely stretched another one. Is my 13B really that torquey? Or are my mounts just old? Either way, I'm going to try solid mounts because I've got too much flex. The oil pan also hits the frame in my rotary MG, as does the starter because it also uses stock Mazda mounts. Rubber mounts are for luxury cars, not sports cars/trucks.

Well mazdaspeed (aka MazdaComp) has competition engine and tranny mounts that it says are 40% stiffer than stock:
Engine mount: PN# 4352-39-040 $36.00
Tranny mount: PN# 4352-39-340 $43.60

"Note: 40 percent stiffer rubber than stock mount provides better rigidity and throttle response."

This is what I am getting for my car.

Please let me know how well they work.

I'm bumping this from the grave because I'm wondering what people with gsl se cars are supposed to do, when wanting stiffer mounts, you can't use 12a ones, because the driver side one is taller than the passenger side, which is the same as a 12a one.

I can update this thread with what I installed in my GSL-SE. I've gone with a competition trans mount from RB and hockey puck motor mounts. RB says the comp trans mount is 40% stiffer than stock. They also say that about their competition motor mounts. I went with hockey pucks because they are cheap and seem to be about 60% stiffer than stock.

As for my REPU, it got comp engine and trans mounts. The drivability is excellent and feels better than a new or modern truck. Modern in this case means anything built built from the 90s and later. The oil pan is up away from the crossmember and the exhaust hangers are perfectly happy. The engine also doesn't rock left to right anywhere nearly as much as it used to, even though the distance between mounts is short. Compare this to a 1st gen which has more distance between mounts thus more leverage or rather it's easier for the REPU engine to rock back and fourth but it really doesn't anymore. Plus no need for a torque brace.

Note the only times I've gotten shuddering are due to an old trans mount that is separating rubber from steel. If your car is doing this, get a new trans mount. And if you don't like the jiggly engine and don't mind a little more noise and vibes transfered from engine to car, get competition mounts or hockey pucks. :)

Don't worry about it. Get two competitions.

on GSL-SE's, they seem to be the same on each side. just get the competition ones or try to make ur own w/ hockey pucks.

Motor Mounts

Has anyone used FC competition motor mounts on an FB?

I just ordered a set of Mazda competition bushings for all my arms front and rear. I also ordered the Mazda competition differential mounts and was told that the Mazda competition motor mounts are no longer available. At least that's what the customer service rep told me when he couldn't order it on his computer for me. I need something equivalent to Mazda competition 40% stiffer then stock on my fd.

No and that would be a bad idea because they're a different height. They're a lot taller for one thing. They also tend be be squishier in stock form for some reason, perhaps due to height. I wouldn't do FC competitions in a 1st gen.

Look at Banzai mounts for your FD. I'm sure you can search this forum to find out where to order.

I was just didn't know if I got the competition ones and it lowered theDrivers side of the engine, would the engine fan hit the shroud, it looks like it would.
I was hoping they made a gsl se drivers side competition mount.

looking at mazdatrix's site, there is no difference in the competition mounts for either side for the GSL-SE. that's what i have in my car and they are the same on each side. i had no issues w/ the fan hitting the shroud.

the drivers side of a stock gslse mount is twice as tall its massive, maybe some one put 12a mounts in your car previously, but stock that's the way it is. You should bee able to see the difference on MazdaTrix web site in the stock mounts.
I know I can't use a shorter stock 12a mount on the drivers side the fan will hit.

i see a little difference on mazdatrix's pics, but not "twice" as tall. all i can tell you is my personal experience, i did not have any issues with the competition mounts.

I have stock 12a mounts in my SE swapped 80. No issues. I think they are too soft from the weight of the engine being further forward due to the notched front cover engine mount bracket and causes a wobble at idle. I am considering stiffer mounts. I had them in an FC and my 79 and liked them.

Jeff,

When you are installing your hockey pucks do you just torch out the rubber under the upper cap and replace with the puck and set back on the lower cap?

Have you have any issues with the pucks cracking yet?

Thanks,

Jesse

Theres a Canadian mob ( Level Zero?) that does semi-solid (as in through-bolt) engine mounts in poly urethane. Iv got them in my 13bt fb to replace the std fb mounts. Motor barely flexes now and vibration no issue at all - just better feel.
I was so impressed with them that i obtained short length of 50mm PU rod (95d) and made my own tranny mounts.

I don't use any part of the stock motor mounts when I install hockey pucks. All I do is cut out a wendy's hamburger square of 1/8" thick 3"x3" steel plate, then a 1/4" thick 3"x3" square of aluminum plate, drill a 3/8" or 10mm hole through both, and then drill an oversized hole through the hockey puck (because rubber is really grippy and needs a slightly bigger hole). Then use a grade 8 bolt 3/8" 16NC (don't recall the length), a thick washer at each end, two nuts counter tightened together to keep from backing off because you can't really tighten down against rubber. Make the through-bolt tight and snug, then tighten a second nut to the first one to keep them from coming loose. Does that make sense?

As for cracking, only a tiny bit along the edge after years of engine heat exposure.

The throttle response from these is amazing. It isn't soft and squishy or delayed like on all modern cars. It's much more imediate and rewarding. Feels like you're driving a race car, sort of.

They don't transfer very many vibrations because rotaries don't really have any vibrations. But then if you start to feel vibrations you'll know right away that your engine might not be very happy so you can get in there and fix it before damage is done.

There is an oil slosh in the rotors that happens above idle. You do get to feel this. :) It's interesting to learn more about the way your engine actually works just by upgrading your motor mounts.

No need for the torque brace that RB sells. Seems to me the torque brace is a combersome way to apply a band-aid fix when the real issue are the soft stock motor mounts.

Oh, you don't have to cut out your metal in a square. I just do it that way because a straight line is easier to cut than a circle. As for the thicknesses, I've found 1/8" and 1/4" plus the hockey puck is a good height. So because 1/4" in steel would weigh a lot, I went with aluminum. It holds up fine.

I used hockey pucks on my Gold car. Just drilled through them then slapped some plate steel on top... bolt up good to go.

My old mounts were completely separated. As for a different feeling from stock to "60%" stiffer??? dunno. They were better than separated.

They lasted at least two years and 20k. I haven't driven that car in about a year, but I'm sure the hockey pucks are still there.

Thanks Jeff. This is on the to do list now for our racecar (and probably my road rx7 as well).